I have a 100 year old house with lots of oak pillars and trim in good shape except for the varnish (?) which is alligatored. Any ideas on the best way to deal with that problem?
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DSetermine if its varn. or shellac. Use a rag with denatured alcohol..rub it. If it gets sticky ya have shellac..if no effect, it's varn.
either way, yer likely gonna live with it, or strip it. Those Formby type refinishers ain't worth a hoot.
Possibly if ya clean it REAL well, a few more coats of shellac will burn in and make it less noticable..but I'm bettin it also has darkened quite a bit too. Sand , sand..shellac, sand , shellac..It can be done.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Those Formby type refinishers ain't worth a hoot.
Yeah? I've used several, found them to be quite finish specific, but worked well with the right finish. Fortunately it's been a long time since I've done any refinishing to speak of, other than lacquer furniture repairs.
This job is large enough I sure wouldn't look forward to using a Formby's type stripper, but it does leave the patina of the wood intact, unlike sandpaper. Kinda depends on what you want the result to be. New wood or old.
Not unlike your place, I love old houses..... as long as it's somebody else doing the restoration.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
my last refinish job very well may be my LAST. it was a 4' by 8' gate leg drop leaf WITH leaves and two Demi-lunes, total size open..4x16.
It was mahogony with a shellac finish that had seen better days, a lot of sunfade, and potted plant circles..etc. I wanted to NOT strip down to the filler, I tried all the "refinisher in a bottle'' stuff..no dice..just made a big mess.
I used straight methylene Chloride ( this was industrial stuff from my days with Michael Dresdner) and got it all down to the filler..and started over.
Two coats unwaxed sealer shellac, two coats Orange shellac..then 6 coats of lacquer.
I horrendously under bid the work..now the only refinishing I will do is for me..I have done way too much to enjoy it any more.
Little hijack while I got yer attn..building 3' high porch enclosure stone walls..want to use walnut poles for posts..wass a good way to anchor them to the top of the wall? or should I make them full height and stone around them? Wind lift is my concern, as well as NO galvanized post bases on top of my half wall..set an anchor bolt in the stone and epox. into the post bottom?
any ideas..?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Little hijack while I got yer attn..building 3' high porch enclosure stone walls..want to use walnut poles for posts..wass a good way to anchor them to the top of the wall? or should I make them full height and stone around them? Wind lift is my concern, as well as NO galvanized post bases on top of my half wall..set an anchor bolt in the stone and epox. into the post bottom?
any ideas..?
Yup. I've been using 6" I beam sections for my 6x6 white oak feet. Tried welding them to anchor bolts but that didn't work very well. Better to bolt them down, lag screw the flange into the post. Hate those galvanized bases. The cast alloy ones aren't much more attractive, and no good way to attach them. Also had fun for a while welding up custom feet, sometimes stretching a ways up the post. Used up a lot of odd-shaped scrap steel that way. ΒΌ" or thicker is my preference. Painted black, of course.
Your walnut poles are round? I know you know better than to leave any sapwood. How about a round foot, with air under, and straps going up to attach the pole? You're plenty enough of a sculptor to dream up something interesting. Vine climbing up the pole? Doesn't take much to add some leaves even. Only requirements being a way to attach to the stone and posts and have air circulation underneath. Ummm, you do weld, don't you?
Lost your shirt on that table, eh? One of the many reasons I quit refinishing. I only even touch-up for special clients. Not anything I want to get really good at.
My buddy John's in Richmond, probably in the basement of the music store this week if you have time. He's working on a commissioned banjo that has what he calls "gaudy" inlay. I guess it'll be a Hamlett, like the mandolins. What he can do with pearl amazes me. Not to mention finish touch-ups. And if you need a picker, he ain't bad.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Tom, yup, I gotta Lincoln MIG buzz box..or sunburn maker as I call it. I was thinking of ornamental iron type things..but again it's anchoring to the lime stone, that seems unclear.
The walnut (or cedar, or locust, whatever I can scrounge from outback) is all dead dry, heartwood. Been dead longer than I have been alive probly..ok that's a stretch...LOL
John is here huh? I will make a point to stop by when I get to town again..I love MOP work..'cept the stuff gives me a rash wherever the dust hits skin..and sneeze! Gawd, I am allergic to it..it usually goes with Ebony (fingerboards, headstock covers) and that is like kryptonite to me too..double whammy.
Gotta get more stone laid before these posts are an issue..just was thinkin about how deep in the wall to mount them, or the surface / bracket ideas..I should make it so they can be easily replaced , if I ever possibly have too..don't wanna be cussin the builder..esp. if I am the one who did it..{G}
Thanks Bro.
Duane
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Gotta get more stone laid before these posts are an issue..just was thinkin about how deep in the wall to mount them, or the surface / bracket ideas..I should make it so they can be easily replaced , if I ever possibly have too..don't wanna be cussin the builder..esp. if I am the one who did it..{G}
Weeeel, I sure wouldn't be laying any stone up around the bottoms. Far as I can tell, you want air movement down there. That leaves a bracket of some sort on top of the wall. With a foundation bolt to hold it to the wall.
Expansion bolt into limestone? Doesn't sound good from here. J bolt down into the wall? Much better. I'm not an epoxier. I'd much rather do an ornamental bracket, especially if you're going to have the foot breathe.
Laying stone walls, hmmm..., there really isn't much you don't do, is there? And learning to be a snake handler.... Or is that a religious thing?PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
believe me, I DO do it all..
J bolts are what I was thinkin..the lime stone is way soft.
I left most of my scrap steel in NC, what a shame..I had some neat stuff..I just took apart my boat trailers pulleys an rollers to make a junk trailer for the roof tearoff...got some odds an ends from it.
Doing a total of 60' by2' of stone walls too..used the old fireplace stones and a 6' x8'' hearth stone for the stoop step..heres me the stoop setting the step.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Doing a total of 60' by2' of stone walls too..used the old fireplace stones and a 6' x8'' hearth stone for the stoop step..heres me the stoop setting the step.
And a good lookin' wall it is. Except for that scrawny legged decoration on it. Always enjoy your photos. Thanks.
You've got space now. I'm sure the steel accumulation has (will) started in earnest. I always have some decent piles to pick through. Saw somebody cutting up an old trailer frame this weekend with the intent of taking it to a recycler. Always a surprise when I run into anybody who has no interest in scrap steel.
A little slow getting back here. In Michigan now. Finally got this antique machine fired up. Today's the first day it's too wet to sail. Priorities.....PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
If it is shellac you are lucky, you can strip it with that same denatured alcohol. Put a bunch in a bucket and keep rubbing, those 3M no scratch scotch brite pads can help as well. Use a respirator. I did an oak ceiling that had the same problem. Now it looks great.
might wanna pass that on to the OP'er..
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Sorry didn't look where the response went to.
I have found that Franmar Soy Gel (and other similar strippers) work really well on natural wood finishes. Often, you can wipe most of the old finish off with just a paper towel. Little sanding or scraping to ruin the detail of the profile, carving, or whatever.
http://www.franmar.com/
I find that semi-clear gel-type strippers are better for natural finishes, so that you can more easily see what you are doing, while paste types (Back to Nature, Peelaway 6) are easier to use on painted surfaces where their thicker consistency allows them to be applied in a thicker coat without running. Peelaway 6 is sort of like marshmallow fluff. Back to Nature (Multi-Strip) is more like drywall mud. These all have essentially the same active ingredients.
Another advantage with Soy Gel is that much of the stain (if stained) is extracted from the wood, so the fiwood is more 'bare' than with other methods, and tone is more even. Solvent-type strippers seem to 'drive' the old stain deeper into the wood. I should have taken pictures of my comparison test using 10 types of strippers.