Replies

1. 
   JohnSr | Jun 27, 2005 01:53pm | #1

   NO!

   You should consider the following system.  You will need two coats - base and finish.  If you have no experience with EIFS, I recommend you get help from a pro.  Installation methods and following manufacturer's requirements are critical for a successful application.

   Direct applied exterior finish systems include the following components:

   • Sealer. Be sure to check with system manufacturer.
   • Base Coat with 25-50% Portland cement mixture (Type I or Type I & II) applied over entire surface.
   • Fiberglass mesh at joints or over complete surface. Again, be sure to check with system manufacturer.
   • System accessories such as starter beads, corner beads, window trim, and drip edges.
   • Synthetic finish.

   They also have these typical characteristics:

   • Generally high impact resistance.
   • Require control joint every 144 sq. feet maximum to reduce cracking of surface.
   • EPS aesthetic shapes may be incorporated with overlapping fiberglass mesh.
   • Variety of acrylic finishes from smooth to spanish.

   DEFS is used in these special applications:

   • Soffits and canopies.
   • Stairwells and balcony walls.
   • High impact, no additional insulation needed.
1. 
   FastEddie1 | Jun 27, 2005 02:19pm | #2

   Why the No! ?

   I haved no idea of nthe answer ... just asking for clarification ... or reasons not to do it his way.

    I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

1. 
   CapnMac | Jun 27, 2005 06:48pm | #4

   or reasons not to do it his way

   Have to agree, stucco has many many answers, and absolute "no" can be hard to come by.

   Now, I'd be leary of just one coat over cbu/hardiebacker showing its seams & joints with any building/skin movement.  But, I also have a 'reflex' to lath brown coats, too--so it never seems like an extra step to me.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

2. 
   stonefever | Jun 27, 2005 03:40pm | #3

   John,

   I believe he's talking about traditioanl stucco, not EIFS.

    

1. 
   JohnSr | Jun 28, 2005 04:08am | #6

   A traditional stucco would require a metal lathe and three stucco coats - brown coat, scratch coat and finish coat.  In this case there is no need for the concrete backer board.

   EIFS comes in all sorts of systems today.  Polymer based and polymer modified are the two major categories. Most stucco used on new construction today (in the East anyway) is EIFS. It is not the Dryvit polymer based system that resulted in the class action law suit.  It usually is a polymer modified Type 1 or Type II portland cement mixture.  The one coat system is used frequently.  One coat consists of a metal or synthetic mesh with a base coat and a finish coat.  The one coat stucco is acrylic polymer modified and will be 3/8" to 1/2" thick as opposed to traditional stucco which is not polymer modified and is 7/8" thick.

1. 
   brownbagg | Jun 28, 2005 05:16am | #7

   if you use a concrete backer voard you would not need a lathe. the concrete will bond to the board. same prinipal as bonding to concrete block

2. 
   BillHartmann | Jun 27, 2005 07:06pm | #5

   What about just installing "stucco pattern" fiber cement pannels and be done.

1. 
   stevefonke | Jun 28, 2005 07:25am | #9

   I don't want to have to deal with all of the seams on the larger wall areas that the Hardi would require.  And I'm looking for a less labor intensive method without sacrificing quality or reliability.  That's asking alot, I know.  Thanks to everyone for the input.

   Steve

1. 
   JohnSprung | Jul 01, 2005 01:23am | #10

   Maybe try a couple sheets of it on the back of your garage and see how it holds up a few years out.  An unfinished garage interior would be ideal, you could monitor both sides, and look for water getting in.  Of course that's a very slow answer to your quick question.  ;-)

    

   -- J.S.

    

1. 
   stevefonke | Jul 03, 2005 09:45am | #11

   thanks for the reply.  i'm trying to decide on stucco method for a spec home......i may just go with the traditional method.  I might do a small portion on the garage with the duroc to see how it compares over time.  thanks again.

   steve

1. 
   COremodeler | Jul 03, 2005 09:57pm | #12

   Steve I completely agree. I cannot see the difference in using the hard coat system, 4x8 sheets of durarock has got to be easier to install and at least as strong as mortar and chicken wire. It works fine in showers and I don't know a wetter scenario. I am also wondering if it would work behind veneer rock?The big question is cost, it may be alot cheaper to go w/ mortar. But if your working solo there is no way you could do that hard coat alone.

3. 
   ponytl | Jun 28, 2005 06:10am | #8

   my answer is yes you can... I'd do a few things...  I'd fiberglass mesh the whole thing... I'd leave expandion cracks to be caulked later or use some type expandion joint...  I'd use a rich portland mix with a fine white sand and about 5% lime in the mix...  you can add color to this if you want... or use white portland and leave it white...  i still think it's going to kinda a be a 2 coat deal  one to bed the mesh 1/8 to 1/4" and a finish coat maybe 1/8"  you can prob do both coats at the same time.. I'd damp'n the backer board and you need to keep the whiole thing damp for a few days...

   just my 2cents

   pony....

   i started out with nothing

   and

   have most of it left

4. 
   AdamGreisz | Jul 07, 2005 02:51am | #13

   I have been researching a stucco finish for a Spanish style home in the NW. We recently looked at a home that had a cement board system. 1/2" cement board with full coverage fiberglass mesh embedded in basecoat then finish coat. This is very similar to the EIFS systems described in other posts.  Job is only two years old but it looks great. The project requirements were no expansion joints.

   Since expansion joints do not seem to fit the Spanish style. I have inquired about a traditional stucco installation over a wood frame to see if it is possible to do without expansion joints. A local contractor does it all the time. He recommends loading the building before the stucco is applied to minimize cracking. The stucco is installed over two layers of 60 minute building paper and metal lath. The scratch coat is applied then the brown coat. It is recommended that these be done within a few days of each other for proper bonding. The stucco must then cure for a minimum of 28 days before the finish coat (traditional or Acrylic) goes over the top. Roofing, sheetrock, floor finishes and interior trim combine to compress the house framing. If the stucco is applied before this occurs it show stress cracks. The stucco will crack but if the house is loaded and the stucco base fully cured they will be minimal.

   Drawbacks as I see them are extending schedule including time that scaffolding is set up around the house. My stucco installer does not charge rent for the additional time but if he did I could not even consider this application.

   Adam Greisz

   Owen Roberts Group

   10634 East Riverside Drive # 100

   Bothell, WA 98011

   http://www.owenrobertsgroup.com

   ---

   Edited 7/6/2005 7:56 pm ET by Adam Greisz

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/7/2005 12:37 pm ET by Adam Greisz

5. 
   paul42 | Jul 07, 2005 05:46pm | #14

   Take a look at the Julyl 05 issue of JLC - They have a very interesting article about stucco and leaks.