Replies

1. 
   rez | May 30, 2008 06:12pm | #1

   Greetings bay,

   This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again which will increase it's viewing.

   Perhaps it will catch someone's attention that can help you with advice.

   Cheers

    

2. 
   rasconc | May 30, 2008 06:20pm | #2

   Not cheap but should do it.  Get someone with ind saw to cut it.  First link is 3x5x 3/8 8' long, second is main page.

   The 1/4" thick is $55 for 4' stick, would be easier to ship.

   http://www.metalsdepot.com/Cart3/viewCart1.phtml?LimAcc=$LimAcc&aident=

   http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/alum2.phtml?page=sangle&LimAcc=$LimAcc

    

   Checked on 2' pieces and shipping to me in NC would be under $5 for 4 pieces.  They might whack them into 2" for you.

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   Edited 5/30/2008 11:22 am ET by rasconc

   
   

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   Edited 5/30/2008 12:06 pm ET by rasconc

1. 
   bayouelton | May 30, 2008 08:38pm | #3

   Thanks rez and Rasconc.  That's exactly what I planned on. I'd already talked to Eddie at metalsdepot.com and he's going to cut one of those 3 by 5 inch beams up in 1 1/2 inch widths for me for about $3.75 each. You wouldn't believe what some other folks wanted for the same thing. The only draw back is I'm going to have to drill all the mounting holes myself.  Just FYI it took me forever to find that web site.  I was googling "Handrail" mounting brackets and kept getting cutesy fancy ornamental things. Once I started searching for hardware like "inside corner brackets and braces"  I started getting news I could use. Again, thanks for writing in.

1. 
   rasconc | May 30, 2008 10:35pm | #4

   I googled "aluminum angle" to find that site, had never heard of them before, they were a couple of lines from top.

   Glad to help.

2. 
   Davo304 | May 31, 2008 09:00am | #5

   Why don'tcha just buy the 3X5 tube and do the whole thing yourself? It would be much easier to drill the holes first and then cut the beam to size....so long as you are only drilling a complete thru-hole and not a contersunk hole.

   Buy the 3X5 beam. On your drill press, set up a jig. Begin by  drilling  the same size hole in a piece of scrap wood. Then, layout and drill your first actual hole in the aluminum stock. Next, move the beam down to your next intended hole location and drill your 2nd hole. Now lock your drill in that 2nd hole...Take that piece ofscrap wood and attach it to the top of your drill press fence so that the hole in the scrap wood aligns with the first hole you drilled in the aluminum stock. Now insert a dowel rod thru the scrap wood hole into the aluminum hole. The dowel should be the same dia. as the hole...use an extra drill bit the same as you are using to act as a dowel rod if you like.

   The dowel locks the beam in place and sets up your spacing layout for each subsequent hole. Now, turn on your drill press again, slide the stock down until the 2nd drilled hole aligns with the dowel rod..insert rod, then drill hole #3, etc. etc.

   This spacing jig will easily align all your holes accurately. No need for layout of each hole location using this method. Speeds up drilling process.

   After drilling all holes, rip beam lengthwise on your table saw using a meatl cutting blade. Then, cut final indivdual widths using a chop saw with a metal cutting blade. Use a fence  flip stop system, or clamp a stop to your chop saw fence and have at it.

   Not only will this save you money, but it probably will save you time. It's a heck of a lot easier drilling holes through a square shaped, long beam that you can hold or easily clamp in place over that of a tiny, "L" shaped object.

    

   Just my 2 cents..But that's the way I would go.

    

   Davo  

1. 
   rasconc | May 31, 2008 06:45pm | #7

   I think I would let them cut them.  It is not a beam, I think he miss spoke. Pretty sure it is angle with one 3" and one 5" leg. 

   I would make a jig for the drill press, I would use a piece of 6x6 and tack some shoe moulding to make the edges to hold it in. 

   Possible deburring of the cuts would be a big chore, that is 53' of cut edge. 

1. 
   Davo304 | May 31, 2008 09:17pm | #8

   Deburring can be chore. Usually when working with aluminum, a cut edge burr will snap right off.  Now working with steel is another matter.

3. 
   stevent1 | May 31, 2008 03:46pm | #6

   Here are some links to a bracket I used to install thousands of feet of 6/4 x 5-1/2" red oak handrails in hospitals. Completely adjustable in and out.The bracket is Ives. HB 162.http://professional.iveshardware.com/pdfs/templates/hooksbrackets/inst_hb162_0.pdf http://professional.iveshardware.com/pdfs/catalog/hooks_brackets.pdfChuck Slive, work, build, ...better with woodEdited 5/31/2008 8:49 am ET by stevent1

   Edited 5/31/2008 10:10 am ET by stevent1

3. 
   Tomrocks21212 | May 31, 2008 09:19pm | #9

   While the supply/fabrication aspect of your project is being addressed, I have another concern that hasn't been mentioned.

   Is this an exterior application using ACQ treated 6x's? If so, you may need to rethink your selection of aluminum, or consider an isolation membrane and fasteners compatible with both the metal and the ACQ.

   A search will reveal a number of discussions here regarding the unsuitability of aluminum hardware with the newer treated lumber.

1. 
   bayouelton | May 31, 2008 09:59pm | #10

   Thanks. I'll look into it. If you come across an informative web site on the subject please pass it on.