Replies

1. 
   blue_eyed_devil_ | Nov 07, 2001 02:56am | #1

   *
   Bill, I've removed a few aluminum windows. It takes about five minutes tops. I can get some out in much less.

   1) remove the wood trim.

   2) insert wrecking bar on side jamb and pry out.

   3) cut jamb with power saw.

   4) the side jamb is now in two pieces. Continue prying and rip one section out. Rip out the other piece.

   5) pry head jamb and rip out.

   6) continue around entire window.

   It comes out rather easily. NO sawzall ever needed. A bigger bar gives better leverage and easily rips the nails out or tears the flange through.

   blue

1. 
   Gabe_Martel | Nov 07, 2001 03:14am | #2

   *Bill, I don't know what your client's existing windows are made of so assuming that they are wood or poly clad wood I would use the trusty sawzall.Much safer than a power saw kicking back into your face and easier to control.Cut across the sides at the top and bottom. Once you've cut all the way through, bend the piece back to expose the nailing flange and if aluminium or plastic, score along the inside edge and a couple of twist will make it come free. Once the two sides are removed, do the top and bottom the same way.Always better to carve it out slowly that to take a chance and ruin the interior finish with a wrecking bar.Gabe

1. 
   blue_eyed_devil_ | Nov 07, 2001 04:39am | #3

   *Bill, Pay no heed to the concrete office guy. Notice how he thinks aluminum windows are made of wood?! It's better to take advice from someone that actually does this type work. Sawzalls tend to catch and rattle the window frames. I'd take everything off the walls before I'd start with a sawzall.A wrecking bar is easily the best choice. Properly placed, it shouldn't extend any damage past the line of the new (or old) trim that you will be installing.blue

1. 
   cutawooda35 | Nov 07, 2001 04:50am | #4

   *I have removed A few as well. The only real way I have found to remove them is to collapse them. Sometimes they come out easier than that but go into it with that in mind. I know some might be saying "Huh",.."what?" but take out the glass and you will se how easy it is. The windows never have more than 5 nails in them. Once you take out the sash and remove those pesty counter weight rods, you sawzall one side and start pulling. be careful at the top because the soldier course of brick is caulked to the window. You could spend 30 minutes getting it out carefully or you could do it the messy way in 5 minutes. Good luckCutawooda35

1. 
   Gabe_Martel | Nov 07, 2001 05:04am | #5

   *No BS devil,I didn't read aluminium anywhere other than the title. There is a load of windows available that have some weight and will cut easily without vibrating the hell out of the blade.You don't have to be a plumber to know how to use a sawzall but it helps to at least be a qualified carpenter, able to use all tools equally well.I'm also thinking that it's best to take your time and do it safe and right than to be reckless and stupid and have to use that cel phone to dial 911.Gabe

2. 
   brisketbean_ | Nov 07, 2001 02:31pm | #6

   *The easiest and quickest way to remove an alluminum window is to remove the glass first, take a propane torch or a heat gun to soften the caulking or glazing compound around the aluminum and remove glass in whole pieces, then take micro-adjuster and swat frame in the middle two to three good swats, and presto window has been removed.PS I use an 8 pound micro-adjuster for this job.

3. 
   bill_burns | Nov 07, 2001 04:11pm | #7

   *hey everybody,thanks for quick feedback. I think I'll attack these and see what happens. my big dilemma is trying to save the interior from major damage. hopefully your ideas will work!!!I am confident!

4. 
   blue_eyed_devil_ | Nov 08, 2001 01:12pm | #8

   *Gabe, I've tried every conceivable method, in the field. I'm not talking theory. I'm talking experience.1) use power saw with it's superior speed and carbide teeth. It goes through aluminum like butter.2) pry out with big bar. An eight year old girl could do it.You do it your way, I'll do it the better way.This is the typical office guy mentality. I don't tell office guys how to feed their fax machine.....blue

5. 
   Gabe_Martel | Nov 08, 2001 02:22pm | #9

   *Bullshit.The reason that you haven't earned the ability to manage is that you've already fooled yourself into believing that you have done it all.I've spent the majority of my 35 years of experience, in the field, learning how to do my work safely and efficiently. You quit learning when you were an 8 year girl.Gabe

6. 
   blue_eyed_devil_ | Nov 09, 2001 07:29am | #10

   *Gabe, if you had 35 yrs experience at using a saw vs sawzall on an aluminum frame, you wouldn't suggest something as stupid as safty as an issue with regards to the methodology I've described. Either you know how to use a saw, or you don't. If you do, there isn't anything unsafe about it. If you don't, then don't plug it it.I love you guys that hide behind safty for every issue.blue

7. 
   Gabe_Martel | Nov 09, 2001 02:19pm | #11

   *Safety is so foreign to you that you can't even spell it.Got both eyes, all limbs and still on the right side of the grass.Gabe

8. 
   Ken_Schriner | Nov 09, 2001 07:11pm | #12

   *I'm not near as experienced as Gabe or Blue in removing aluminum windows, but feel free to add my two cents, since they seem to both be up to about six cents now. On my house, I use a circ saw to cut through the small piece of nailing fin that is showing. Carbide blade cuts through aluminum like butter, hot aluminum cuts through eyes like butter, get your safety glasses on (I like hiding behind safety!) Parts of fin that I can't reach with the circ saw, I use ... the recip saw for. I start at the bottom and work to the top.

2. 
   bill_burns | Nov 09, 2001 07:11pm | #13

   *
   I have a customer who wants( needs) replacement windows. it is a wood frame/ brick veneer facade. the windows are attached to wood frame with nailing fin, and brick veneer is run up to the edge of the fin and flange of window. on the inside the returns are drywall or wood trim that covers about 3/4" of the window frame.
   I need advice on best way to remove these units to accept replacements. the community won't allow a change in the way the window reveal looks from street, so I can't remove sashes and install the new window in old frame and wrap the outside.
   I have thought of a sawzall fronm the outside to cut the flange, but I hope there is an easier way.
   any help is appreciated.