You all have probably dealt with these questions in the past, but my attempt to search didn’t come up with much. So, with apologies, I’d like to ask some basic questions regarding using steel framing for non-loadbearing basement walls. This will be a DIY job. The reason I’m interested in steel framing is that this basement has gotten wet in the past and I’d like to reduce any possible mold problems should it get wet again.
First, is this a reasonable thing for an reasonably skilled amateur to do? By reasonably skilled, I mean that I anticipate no problems with putting in the walls if I were to use wood framing. I’ve done that sort of thing before and have adequate skills and tools.
Second, what sort of things are involved? Are there special tools required? How is the material cut and fastened together? How is the drywall attached?
Third, can you give me a feel for cost comparison with using wood?
And, lastly, are there any ‘gotchas’ or other things that I should know about?
Thanks, very much.
Paul Ebert
Replies
I did my basement with light gage steel studs, it's a piece of cake. There are some differences in the way you build door openings and I think some pros around here will point you in the right direction on the specifics.
First answer: Yes, it's easy...maybe even easier than wood framing.
Second answer: No special tools required. Electric drill/driver and tin snips to cut things to length. The cutting is faster with abrasive saw, but not necessary.
Third answer: It's actually cheaper using steel here in MI.
Good luck.
Noticed this hasn't gotten too much response. So I'll toss is some hopefully useful info.
I used to have a great deal of info bookmarked on this, as my dad nearly built a place with steel framing. Last minute the local lumber mill offerred him a bunch of 2x6's real cheap, so we used those instead.
I know there have been some discussions on this here, but due to the search engine, I'd suggest you go to http://www.google.com and search there. http://www.jlc.com or http://www.doityourself.com may also have some info.
There are special tools for crimping studs together, but unless your a pro and good at it, self-tapping screws work better, and allow you to move things easier if you change your mind.
Many of the sites I found showed how to put wood around the doors to simplify trim installation. Base trim is attatched with self-drilling screws. Drywall is also done with self-drilling screws.
Steel walls are nice in that they're straight. There are many different gauges available. You can get some that match wood dimensions so you can mix in 2x4's or whatever where you want nailing surfaces. Personally, I'd use a heavier gauge for any interior free standing walls to increase wall stiffness.
I'd power nail the base track to the concrete floor if it were me, but others may recommend other methods. I've never done it, just researched it, so take my suggestions with that in mind.
Oh, if you're worried about moisture, you may want to have a spray foam insullation installed in the extior walls instead of fiberglass. Not a DIY thing, and more expensive, but won't hold moisture like fiberglass will.
What would you think of using styrofoam for the insulation? Not as effective as sprayed foam or fiberglass, I imagine, but it seems to me that moisture won't hurt it. I don't feel the need for a high degree of insulation (perhaps I should...).
Thanks.
Light guage metal framing is the better way to frame basement walls. The tracks allow a little slop in the stud heights so you won't have to measure each individual stud if the floor or ceiling sag a little.
No special tools necessary. Tin snips for cutting (wear gloves!!!)
Sheetrock is attached with self-tapping drywall screws. Trim is attached using self-tapping trim head screws. You can fur out a door opening with wood blocking to allow instalation of pre-hung doors.
Meta studs here in NY are half the price of lumber. Catch is here we cannot use Romex wire in metal stud walls. Metal studs=metal electrical boxes and BX
MJ brings up a good point. If it's legal to use metal studs with romex. You MUST put in anti-short snap in plastic wiring bushings in the prepunched holes in the studs. They should also be used with any plumbing. Many places that sell metal studs won't sell these, so you may have to order from the manufacturer, but don't forget them.
Also, make sure you install the studs the same way, so the holes line up.
These are some very helpful responses!
I'm not familiar with BX. I assume it's another type of wire, or is it a type of conduit?
Thanks.
BX is a type of wire sheathing. It's what was the norm before Romex became widely accepted. Romex is a brand name for non-metallic sheathing.
BX (or MC) is still the standard for commercial applications. But because it's harder to cut and pull and much heavier than Romex and you have to use metal boxes and clamps, residential guys prefer to use Romex.
There were a couple of articles in the book Framing Floors, Walls & Ceilings by Taunton as well. One that I remember was by a guy who did some remodeling work with steel studs.
plywood backing for the base is nice to have----the steel framing is easy and great for basements but the mold problem is more with the drywall than the framing
Lt ga metal framing is a snap. You'll wonder why you ever built anything with wood studs before (hehehe).
A good pair of straight, right and left airplane snips rather than the standard tinner's tin snips. Get a screw gun with a good depth adjustment for 'setting' the screws in the drywall the proper amount and, one with an easily removable nose cone and a long reach without it for getting into tight places.
I just finished framing some complicated drops in our kitchen to conceal some plumbing enhancements in the second floor above. I'd still be trying to figure out how to frame it out of wood for the next two weeks if it weren't for metal studs.
If you can get studs to match typical wood framing in your area (3-1/2" around here) 25ga would be plenty heavy. I did another ceiling framing job in this house with 20ga and there's a big difference in cutting them with the snips. If you're considering doing lots of this in the future, a cheap chop saw with a cut-off blade makes it easier although a lot noisier.
Dennis in Bellevue WA
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its easy stu
lay out your walls on the floor with doorways marked, cut the bottom tracks and use a powder nailer(hilti) to fasten
start with a long wall that starts at an out side wall and powder nail a stud the right length to the concrete(obviously plumb) and then take the top track and slide it over the stud using another stud to hold the other end up and start fastening the track to the floor joists above
use the proper screws for the stud/plate and plate to joist conections
ive even seen pros just use the drywall screws to hold the whole thing together!!
romex cable is a must and if other cables(phone, cable etc) are pulled get the grommets
a cut off saw is nice(rent it) but not necessary, its really loud!! but cuts fast and square
door ways are a little different, with steel studs there is very little shimming required but add a 1/2 ply frame inside the opening for jam fastening
trim can be fastened with an airnailer through steel but wood backing gives better results
steel studs will not support cabinets adequetly, so add plywood backing for them and pedestal sinks etc
steel studded walls transmit noise a lot more and do tend to sound much more hollow, so insulation is a good idea on all of them, fiberglass batts works well, but get the right size for the steel, the cavities will be bigger than for wood studs
beauty of the whole thing is the flexibilty, stud length is =/- an inch and if you dont like something its easy to change before drywall
cost vs wood is very regional, here in sw ontario cost is almost the same for materials, labour wise steel is quicker to frame but have to add insulation, bx cable vs romex, blocking etc
caulking is not a piece of trim