Starting back up on a roof restoration from last fall.
These pictures show a large rake moulding which sits above the roof plane, in a sense “housing” the slates. It makes wind less likely to be able to wreck havoc with these edge slates. Note the recess in the moulding which acts as a trough to let the water flow to the gutter.
We’ll do a more thorough job in the laying process.
Listeners ask about affordable home builds, installing a patio on foundation backfill, and dealing with peeling paint on masonry.
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Are you planning on repairing it or eliminating it or just leaving it? I would think if you could mill somthing out of Azek to match it, you would be in business.
The owner is an architect so I'll have to clear details with him.
I'm inclined to flash with each course of new slates a soft copper that covers the wooden rake and is locked onto a drip edge on that rake trim.
Is that common or traditional? A period detail? For higher wind locales?
It's not something that I've ever noticed before here on my part of the Connecticut shoreline.
Mongo
I've roofed a couple of houses with that detail. Never seen it without flashing on top of it, though. Last time I saw it, we were installing copper standing seam (tore off three tabs - I'm guessing slate was original). We had to fur up to it with cedar shingles.http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
"We have enough youth, how about a fountain of smart?"
I've seen it several times- mostly on coastal locations, but as Grant notes in the next post, never without flashing covering the exposed wooden rake trim.
More pictures will follow over the next couple of weeks as we get going in earnest on this job.
4" to 8" of the white stuff tonite into Thursday. Not ideal slating weather!!!
Thanks guys. Might be the missing flashing that threw me off.
Mongo and all,
Here are some shots from today on how I choose to redo this rake trim with copper and slate.
Man that's a lot of money going down over that old, tired wood.......
And the alternative would be?
Sometimes it's hard to pick the right balance between budget and best material.....but I would have probably opted to replace the rakes.....maybe they were in better shape than the impression I got from the pics....
If they hadn't been in good shape I would have taken a different approach then what I did.
Yes from the pictures it might have been misleading as to the condition, but from firsthand knowledge- they were fine.
I wouldn't have taken this much effort to restore this 1835 house roof only to do a haphazard job there.
Walter
Well, that's good to hear....
I guess I sound cynical sometimes, but it's a result of having seen one too many jobs where show (fancy finishes, great rooms, edgy design, etc.) out-ruled go (energy efficiency, long term usefulness, sustainable building, etc.).
It sounds like your treating this roof as though it was the one over your own head...;-)
I think a lot of my customers hire me for just that reason.
They know that if I'm happy with the workmanship- then they will be also.
Thanks for the encouraging words, Walter
I love it. We can relate so well. There is a certain joy that only a roofer gets to have, when you SEE what has been done way back then, and how you are gonna handle it NOW.
Looking fine there, looking fine.Parolee # 40835
That detail lasted from the 1830's until now,but with a copper lid and a new slate roof it should be good for another 100.
Thanks Duane, Walter
W, hope you're not working there today! We're supposed to be sidewall shingling but I don't think that's gonna happen. I do need to drive down there though and make sure the high tide didn't swallow the house.
Mike,
I'm in Philly looking to fly to Boston at two- then on to Bangor.
There might be a 10% chance thats gonna happen. Time to start looking at amtrak and Greyhound I guess.
I just finished reading the shingled arch thread- a real good mix of ideas from you, Mike, and Eric.
Best, Walter
Some more pictures of this rake trim. Had to remove a short length from the North side for a pattern since the eaves section was gone, and to lengthen for the miter.
You can see the meat on this is great- the wear taking place where it's been exposed for eons. This side shows more deterioration, so before covering with copper I'll use Abatron A and B liquid consolidant to fill the fissures.
What kind of wood is that, Walter. I can't see the grain well. I'm guessing some kind of pine. BTW, nice plastic gutter hangers. I'm guessing circa 1780 on those.........Oh yeah, Abatron has saved my butt many times - good stuff, but hard to work if you build it out too far.http://grantlogan.net/
Grant,
Yes it's old growth pine. Thats the only reason it has withstood all these years being out to the weather.
When this house was built, around 1835, Bangor- which is 10 miles upriver-was one of the largest producers of lumber anywhere.
The Abatron I'll use is the two part liquid consolidant to help seal those fissures. It's a big difference from the South side which was in real solid shape.
I think you've pegged those hangers age just about on the money!!!
Walter
Sphere's deferring to you on the chimney thread.
Mighty purdy.Slate and copper can't be beat.Thanks for the follow up.
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Whats zat? I don't know squat about slate roofs, but enjoy seeing your work and learning.
Dave
Dave,
You're looking at a Sieger snow guard installed into the roof- then the flashings to cover the rake trim which stands proud of the roof.
There is a porch below of low pitch which we don't want snow to slide down an exacerbate the potential for build up and back up.
We often did things like that in West Texas where the wind gets pretty crazy, but that one seems like it needs some metal flashing to control water run
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