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This discussion is an analog. In this discussion you will find, from time to time, homeless posts. Questions that were posted in the wrong place. Usualy questions that were posted in response to another discussion, instead of as the beginning of a new discussion themselves.
There is one extra rule to this discussion. Use the reply button when responding to a post. Otherwise, it will quickly become impossible to know who is reponding to which question.
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The entry way of my 17 year old home really dates itself with brown ceramic tile. The home has a slab foundation and the tile is in very good condition. The question I have is "can I lay tile over tile"? My thoughts are to sand the surface, fill the grout lines (with what, mastic? cement?) and proceed ahead. Where the walkway meets adjoining rooms I was going to make an oak wood transition piece 3" or 4" wide and rounded off. Looking for any suggestions, comments, or advice.
*Old Door RestorationWe have a bbeautifulold exterior solid wood door with a stained glass window. It has been badly weathered and many of the joints have opened up due to wood shrinkage. We are searching for a means to restore this door to better condition. We are considering either soaking the door in a wood preservative or filling the gaps with some appropriate filler. We would appreciate any tips or suggestions.
*I am needing to install several stainless steel grab bars in an existing ceramic tile shower stall. The tile was installed over "greenboard", I think. Anyone have any suggestions as to drilling that many holes (12+) in ceramic, what type of mounting bolts (probably there is no blocking or access to the back) and waterproofing the installation? Randy Shaum
*I am working on an old house built around 1905. There is a huge pocket door that separates a hallway and study/music room. It doesn't work properly and needs repair. Does anyone know of a source of information for making repairs to this unit? P.V. [email protected]
*I would like some information on finishing drywall corners at the ceiling and the walls. I was wondering if anyone has any tricks on finishing these corners with minimum sanding? Also I tried the dish soap in the mud and thats works great. I like the mud thin it seems to spread easier then thick. I use a 4 inch knife to finish the corner and leave the ridge and knock it down when finishing the other side. If you guys have any time proven tricks let me know.
*I need some help with a problem with drywall and cement board. I use cement board in my showers and tub areas. Although where the corner meets the drywall and the cement board on one side of the corner and cement board on the other corner. I was wondering if, I should put corner bead and attach it to the dry wall and cement board or just use a bull nose tile around these areas. I was also wondering if i should just use the L bead here and finish it on the drywall side and leave it on the other side where the cement board lies in the corner. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
*Building a walk way with a 4 inch pad.Anyone know of the ratio for a proper makeup of concrete. Ratio of portland,sand and 3/4 gravel-Toronto.
*I've lost my dog, has anyone seen it?
*Randy,Drilling the holes are easy enough with the right bit. The HD type stores have bits designed for glass, ceramic and even granite.The biggest headache is the lack of backing. You can drill a hole and use toggle bolts and will do a decent job of holding alright but it's still not the best.If you have a way of openning the wall on the opposite side of the shower stall, something that can be easily repaired, this may be a better plan. This way you can insert plywood blocking for your screws. Guaranteed not to come out.A dab of silicone is all that's required to ensure that water doesn't harm or leak through.Gabe
*Stanley makes tracks and accessories for pocket doors however I think you want to repair what you have at hand.Odds are the parts would have to be either custom made or found in an architectural recycling shop.The track system would have been installed during the construction stage of the house. This means that access is limited to the wheels and brackets on the door itself and the track directly over the doorway. If the track has dropped inside the wall at all, you would have to open the wall to do any repairs.Sorry I can't be of any more helpGabe
*Keith, I know where your dog has been. Sam
*Keith buddy, I saw some guys that looked like CIA types trying to shove batteries and some other electronics up it's butt. I think your dog has been drafted into service.Gabe
*Andy,Ceramic tile over ceramic tile is not a problem. Your local supplier will give you the right thinset and follow the manufacturer's recommendations all will be fine.Gabe
*Gayle,I would strongly advise not to soak it in anything chemical or otherwise.To restore the door properly will require that the door be completely dismantled, repaired and then reassembled.Some of these old doors are valuable and well worth the cost of restoration by pros. Gabe
*This is an old post, so I hope anything I have to offer you is timely! I recently attended a trade show where I saw the perfect solution to your problem. The guy manning the booth was at least 275lbs and was sitting on a swing attached to a grab bar mounted to a drywall/ceramic tile wall section above his head; the attachment had no blocking behind it [as is usually the case in a retrofit]. The bar was attached with a proprietary device called a "Wingits", which I can only describe as a molly bolt on steroids!These things are simply amazing in what they can do and hold--quite a system. Their website address is :www.wingits.comHope this helps----Scott
*AnalogCorrection,That's Anna Log. She got that name when she married Red Wood who really fell for her and got turned into a log. Her maiden name was Anna Bush. Quite a few infamous personalities have come out of the Bushes. Her mother was a dwarf wild cherry. Her father was a chokecherry. Her older brother got in trouble with the law, left town and changed his name to Ben Twig. She's got a younger brother who went to medical school though. His name is Splint Her. Some people don't like him though because he's got a sharp tongue. After Red Wood got milled out and left her a black widow, she messed around with one of his cousins and got pregnant when he Cedar but they got hitched and now they've got a whole line of little Arbor Vitaes. The only real problem they have in their marriage now is when the deer come to browse.........
*yes.
*piffin,what kind of shorts does anna log wear. im building a hutch for my bunnie how high off the ground should it be will pressure treated be bad for bugsy? and what kind of wire mesh should I use for the floor? :)
*Ron, I've never cedar shorts.Wood 1/4" wire mesh be OK?
*Fir cryin out loud, it's a pine in the aspen tryin to unnnerstand this, oak ay?
*Try an inside corner tool. It's an under-bent 90 degree piece of metal, with a handle. Apply the mud with a standard knife.....then whipe the inside trowel down the corner......it hits both walls...and with practice....will leave a nice corner. You'll have to hit the top and bottom with a 6" or so knife to finish. Or.....do one side with a regular knife......let it dry.....then do the opposite. Or.....fit the drywall real tight....and don't use the factory bevel edges....and run a bead of paintable caulk. That's my prefered method. Jeff
*Corner bead....joint compound on drywall.....thinset on cement board. Or....If the corner is to be wrapped with tile....measure where tile will go on drywall....and thinset to fill the corner...and feather just inside where the tile will cover the drywall. If the cement board edge is real ragged....wrap and thinset with the cement board mesh. Jeff
*We always use "Johnson" pocket door hardware. They make a heavy duty model. The bigger the track the better. Your local lumberyard should have information about them. Remove the doors, tracks etc., and try to restore them and rehang. Don't throw them out, they are part of your houses' heritage. If there is any rot you can use a product called "West System", to fill in any holes. It is a two part epoxy usually found at hardware stores catering to marine or boating communities. When it hardens you can belt sand it to near perfection. Hope that helps a little. Doug
*I have maybe a stupid question but, I am going to ask it anyways. I am building a new house and getting ready to install the cement board for the floors and tile. I have tiled many of rooms with the doors in and jambs. I have left the doors out and going to install the cement board and tile with out the doors in place, and then install the doors. What does anyone usually do in this circumstance. i have found it easier without the doors in then with them all ready installed. What is the opinion of you guys.
*If they aren't set, set em later. If it were a remodel and the jambs are already set, undercut them and lay the tile. If the floors are off in the doorways, set em/undercut em, tile. Your choice, easier to tile, harder to hang the doors. One of those 6 of one,half doz.....Have done it so many ways it confuses me as to which I prefer. Usually ends up with whats there when I get there.
*Don't do it yourself, Too HeavyToo hard to get a good looking job if you are greenYou need "air" in the concrete or it will rot, especially in Toronto.Its hard and expensive to take out and replace.Sorry Ben, just trying to save you some aggravation
*What is the effective, efficient, and precise way to square a concrete slab and get your chalk lines snapped for walls?
*Do it before it sets.There's 3 or 4 or 5 ways to do it but you'll have to use them all to get it right.Gabe
*b Does anyone Know the best way to stop the sqeaks in old oak flooring.
*I am creating an opening 60" wide in the main bearing wall of my home floor to ceiling with no visible beam, so I intend to use a camelback beam in the attic.Anyone familiar with this? Any suggestions for attaching the beam to the ceiling joists?
*I just bought a rehab and found to my horror/amazement that some idiot took out a wall in the original kitchen to expand it but "neglected" to install a header !! so now the obvious is occurring - the second floor and roof are down about 4" and i need to jack it back in place before i put in the header - so ive never had to jack one this far how "fast" should i go and what indicates the "speed" - also will the floor joists need additional reinforcement when i place the king and jack studs for the header?
*I want to sound proof the second floor of an old house. Right now all there is on the floor is 3/4" tounge and groove directly over the floor joists. I was planning on putting 1/2" plywood down and then 3/4" hard wood. Is there anything I can put down under these layers for sound proofing? I would like to keep the beautiful tin ceiling underneath on the first floor intact so I'm not interested in ripping open the ceiling to put in sound proofing. Thanks for any and all help.
*Randy,Sounds like handicap bars. Blocking is required, really no way around it.Good Luck-
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This discussion is an analog. In this discussion you will find, from time to time, homeless posts. Questions that were posted in the wrong place. Usualy questions that were posted in response to another discussion, instead of as the beginning of a new discussion themselves.
There is one extra rule to this discussion. Use the reply button when responding to a post. Otherwise, it will quickly become impossible to know who is reponding to which question.