what is everyone using for anchor bolts with the “new treated”???? I can’t find “ZMAX” bolts.
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I don't know about "everyone", but any time I need to use Pressure treated, I use Stainless Steel.
Quality repairs for your home.
Aaron the Handyman
Vancouver, Canada
I use Stainless Steel.
Anchor bolts??
EricI Love A Hand That Meets My Own,
With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.
Where do you buy stainless? Thanks
You can buy stainless threaded rod. A few cuts and some bending in a vise will yield your anchor bolts.
I do renovations, not major new construction.
I guess if I needed to run bolts for sill plates over multiple houses, I'd be more involved with anchor bolts. Usually, though, I am placing lengths of PT 2X on sill or making dividing walls in existing houses.
When I work in an older house, I can't assume there is any poly down under the slab, so I have to think that the PT will run moist. Hence, I use Stainless wedge anchors and use a rotary hammer to get in. I even prefer to do it that way on new construction, and that way I KNOW, there won't be any deterioration.
Oh, yea, I also use foam sill isolator whenever practical.
But what do I know? I'm only a handyman.Quality repairs for your home.
Aaron the HandymanVancouver, Canada
for interior foundation work.. we use the old conventional mild steel 1/2" J'-bolt
frankly i don't think the ACQ is corrosive enough to eat a 1/2" bolt unless there is water present..
i think the main problem with ACQ and corrosion is in exterior work where the metal is subject to leaching from the ACQ
but, hey, whadda i no ?
The code says all metal under 5/8" thick must be at least z-max. This has not been enforced locally, but I am sure it will be soon.
>> The code says all metal under 5/8" thick must be at least z-max. This has not been enforced locally, but I am sure it will be soon. <<
You know "the code" in all 50 states? Does your statement include our Canadian friends up north? We have a few English guys here too...? Maybe even a few Aussies...
Sorry - I just get tired of these code questions and such where people seem to think that every state uses the same building codes, never mind the providences, etc. BTW - what model code are you referring to? Or is it really just a manafacturer recomdation? Matt
Where I live HD has started selling the hot dipped J bolts. None of the block suppliers sell them though, which is where most people order their masonry materials from.
Re using stainless steel J bolts, I just put in 2 foundations. Each had about 45 anchor bolts. I'll make a guess of $6 each. Leme see - 90 x $6 = ~500 for anchor bolts... Yea, sure, my boss wouldn't mind me buying $500 worth of anchor bolts... I'm sure he'd like their shinny color... of my arse as he kicked it out to the curb... ;-)
I agree with Mike Smith's assessment... and water shouldn't be getting into where your anchor bolts are unless you are building a sieve. Matt
I'm of the same opinion, but to be safe, I sqeeze a dab of PL Premium into the hole around it to form a gasket of sorts to interfere with moisture and the dielectric reaction
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
We are switching to the borate treated wood. We were told that 1/2" bolts and larger did NOT need to be galvanized. The plan checker at the county actually has stickers he puts on our plans! I've been hearing though that even the dipped galvanized bolts aren't doing too well in some cases.
We are eliminating the problem by going with borate.
Do any of the big box stores sell borate treated? Thanks
I'm not sure. Our lumberyard is ordering it in. I'm going to do a little checking around. It was only a $1 more per 16' compared to the acq (2x4).
The code calls for decay resistant woods it does not call for treated woods per say,,.
thus I was able to find a nice decay resistant wood (tamarack) and use that without the need to induce chemicals into my house.. Thus regular J bolts worked fine!
Some other decay resistant woods include White Oak and Black Walnut check with your local sawmills for other such woods in your area..
Who decides which woods are sufficiently decay resistant?
Probably a local thing. It would not bother me to use redwood, locust, white oak, or cedar. In CO, when I was there, it was PT or redwood, period.But for any wood, the requirement as I understand it, is siimply if it is in contact with crete... so use tarpaper to deparate from the crete and you are good to go
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Check this out...http://www.trusjoist.com/PDFFiles/sillplate.pdf