Anchoring a stud wall to a block and brick stem wall
I am about to start construction on a 30×40 workshop. I live in a development with an HOA that insists the building must look like the house with a brick stem wall on three sides and a full brick front. The stem wall is made of 8″ block faced with brick that creates a wall just under 12″ thick. The outside surface of the 2×6 stud wall sits flush with the brick. This creates a problem of how to anchor a 2×6 stud wall to the masonry stem wall, because the anchor bolts are set in the block.
My current garage in the lower level of my house has a 2×12 pressure treated mud sill bolted into the 8″ block. The 2×6 stud wall sits on this 2×12 mud sill and appears to be nailed to the mud sill. Isn’t there a better way to attach the stud wall to the mud sill?
1. Could I use a wider lower plate on the 2×6 wall that will catch the bolts in the mud sill?
2. Could I use some metal straps that would nail to the bottom of the pressure treated mud sill and wrap around and go up the wall studs?
3. Some other solution?
Please Advise
Replies
Attaching a 2x6 stud wall to a block and brick stem wall presents a challenge due to the anchoring of the wall to the masonry stem wall. However, there are several solutions you can consider:
1. **Wider Lower Plate**: One approach is to use a wider lower plate on the 2x6 wall that extends beyond the width of the brick stem wall. This wider plate would allow you to catch the anchor bolts set in the mud sill. By aligning the wider plate with the anchor bolts, you can secure the stud wall more effectively to the foundation.
2. **Metal Straps**: Another option is to use metal straps or brackets that can be nailed to the bottom of the pressure-treated mud sill and wrapped around the wall studs. These metal straps provide additional support and can help distribute the load of the wall evenly across the foundation. Ensure that the metal straps are properly sized and installed to provide adequate strength and stability to the stud wall.
3. **Other Solutions**: Depending on the specific requirements and constraints of your project, there may be other solutions to consider. For example, you could explore the use of specialized anchor systems designed for attaching wood framing to masonry walls. Consult with a structural engineer or building professional to assess the feasibility of alternative solutions and ensure compliance with building codes and regulations.
Before proceeding with any solution, it's essential to carefully evaluate the structural integrity and stability of the proposed anchoring method. Consider consulting with a licensed structural engineer or building professional to ensure that the chosen approach meets safety requirements and is appropriate for the specific conditions of your workshop construction. Additionally, verify compliance with local building codes and regulations to avoid any potential issues during the construction process.
Thank You for your reply!
I have a couple ideas.
First is a brick overlay that is not full courses of brick. Brick overlay should meet the visual with less depth.
Second is a thinner block wall. if you want the full thickness, why not couple the brick with 4 inch block?
How high does this stem wall need to be?
Third is to make the stud wall with a brick face. (or the overlay)
The stem wall is 5 blocks high, a 12" block sitting on a concrete footing. The top of the footing is 12" below grade. There will probably be several steps in the footing on one corner because the ground slopes down a small hill.
When you say is, is the stem wall already in place, or is this a design question?
What is driving such a thick wall assembly?
This is a design question. The house was build using 8" block, a 1" air space and Queen sized brick. The bottom line is the stud wall has to sit on the brick so the siding is flush with the brick.
What do the homeowners association rules say?
Are they about looks, or do they specify the constuction details?
I would really try to get the shop made with a stud wall, and make the brick facing of thinner, adhered to the walls as an exterior finish.
Does the brick have to match the house or a specified range of finishes?
Do your brick with a water table (sloped top, overhangs the course below).
Set the stud wall flush with the 8" CMU. Run your barrier down below the top (water table) course. You could do liquid-applied water/vaper barrier on the exterior face of the CMU down to the footing.
This will allow proper anchorage of the P/T wood sill to the top of the CMU.
Just a thought.
I can't use a water table above the brick because it won't match the house. On the house the vinyl siding is flush with the brick.
Got it.
The perhaps you should try to find a thinner brick for the veneer.
e.g. https://metrothinbrick.com/products/sizes-estimating/
Thank You everyone for all of your advice!
Everyone has been very helpful
To securely anchor a 2x6 stud wall to the masonry stem wall with an 8" block faced with brick, you have a few options. First, consider using a wider lower plate on the 2x6 wall that extends beyond the width of the masonry stem wall, allowing it to catch the anchor bolts set in the block. This wider plate would provide a more stable connection.
Alternatively, metal straps can be employed to enhance the connection. Install metal straps that nail to the bottom of the pressure-treated mud sill and wrap around, extending vertically along the wall studs. This method reinforces the attachment, adding structural integrity.
Both approaches aim to improve the anchoring of the stud wall to the masonry stem wall, meeting the HOA requirements for a brick-faced workshop. Ensure that the chosen solution aligns with local building codes and standards. Consulting with a structural engineer or local building official can provide specific guidance tailored to your project and location.
https://branchcodehub.com/fnb-branch-code/.
You could use a wider lower plate on the 2x6 wall to catch the bolts in the mud sill, or consider using metal straps that nail to the bottom of the mud sill and wrap around the wall studs.
Another option could be to use anchor bolts that are longer and reach through the mud sill into the block. It's essential to ensure whatever method you choose provides secure anchoring and complies with building codes.