Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 21, 2000 06:22am | #1

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   Probably the least expensive tool for your job would be the Remington for about $22. Load the nail in the barrel, load the cartridge in the breech, hold the tool vertically - barrel pointed down of course - press down hard against the channel and hit the top of the handle with your hammer. Use a short stub nail with a limiting washer, 1/2 to 3/4 inch would do it. You might have to experiment with the load strength - start with a #2 - some of that OLD concrete is TOUGH and might require a #4 just to set the nail 1/2 inch.

   Be careful, Ralph

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 21, 2000 12:23pm | #2

   *In the Hilti gun, a green shot with a nail spec. for steel track. Has a metal sleeve/washer and is maybe 3/4 long. In hard concrete, the yellow shot. If you don't have a gun, use tapcons. Best of luck. In doorways, use maybe two nails at least on the hinge side and keep 'em close to the edge and about an inch from the end of the track. Best of luck

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 21, 2000 01:54pm | #3

   *Experiment and see what works. I keep a selection of fastners and loads in my truck and just try a few until I like what I get.It's been discussed here before that it is a good idea to put your bottom track on a piece of pressure treated lumber to keep it off the possible wet concrete (rust) and to give you something to nail your base molding to.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 21, 2000 11:57pm | #4

   *Ryan,Ever try shooting the base with a nail gun? On the 25 ga.stud, it'll almost weld the nail to the stud. Then of course there's finish screws if painted base. Never really used a wolm. plate. Hope I haven't made a mistake. With any luck it's a good galv. job. and will last. Had a bsmnt flood a few years after I did it. Was able to check the backside in a spot and the track looked like new. If any basement looks like it might be susceptible to moisture problems, I leave it alone. Nice talking to you.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 22, 2000 03:00am | #5

   *Kent,Hilti guns are really good at this. Calvin told you right. Hilti's powder shots are indicated by 3 color ranges: red shot = strongest power......yellow = mid-range power....green = lightest power. Green shots will probably be just fine. Some of the newer guns have a dial indicator built in to the gun situated above and behind the gun's trigger. With this type, the gun normally takes red shots, but by turning down the dial (from say #3 to #1.5) you automatically adjust the power setting. No more green or yellow shots needed; though the gun can still shoot these. The nail length you need to penetrate into the concrete should not be too long. More than a 3/4 inch penetration is TOO LONG. The size Calvin is referring to is probably a # 27 or #32 nail (These are Hilti designations....they range from 27 on up to 72)You can probably rent one of these guns at a tool rental place. Don't bother with the Remington if you got lots to shoot down. The Remington is awkward, slow, and frustrating. Hilti has guns that have 10 shot clips of both the nails and the powder shots. You simply push down the nose and fire; the gun automatically is reset for the next shot (semi-automatic). The older versions are a single shot, whereby you have to reload the nail into the tip of the barrel after every shot, but the powder shots are still loaded in strips of 10.ONE WORD OF CAUTION...these guns are designed to shoot into concrete and even into steel. I have on occaision shot into 3/8 steel plate during industrial use. DO NOT SHOOT this gun from metal stud into wood or into another metal stud. The nail could easily penetrate right through and cause seriouse injury to someone behind the wood or metal stud. Wear eye protection, and hearing protection if in a confined area (like a basement). These guns shoot what's equivalent to a 22 cal. powder charge and can be quite loud in confined areas. Some of the newer guns come equipped with built-in silencers.The tip of the barrel must be fully depressed before the gun can shoot, just like a standard nail gun. JUST REMEMBER this is not a standard nail gun and should never be used in such a manner.Hope I haven't scared you away from using one. This is a great tool. I use one practically everyday in my line of work (industrial carpenter).Davo

2. 
   Guest_ | Mar 22, 2000 03:14am | #6

   *Kent,If you can't find a powder actuated nail gun to rent, tapcon screws would work just fine. If you don't want to use screws, then use lead "hit anchors." You can get these at any lumber/hardware store. You will need a hammer drill to drill the holes. 1/4 inch dia. drill bit for 1/4 inch dia. hit anchors that are 1 inch or 1-1/2inch long will do the trick nicely.Drill the hole, insert the hit anchor (use a 4 in-one screwdriver with the bit removed to set the anchors with, place the shaft overtop the anchor and tap into place by hitting the screwdriver handle..works great) After the anchor is set, hit the nail "on the head" so to speak, and the anchor is permanently set. They are very inexpensive and have great hold-down power. We use these fellows a lot for anchoring into concrete and into brick and block walls.Good luck with your project.Davo.

3. 
   Guest_ | Mar 22, 2000 05:41am | #8

   *Davo, you touched on a point that makes me prefer the single shot/load Remington. The single load forces me to take my time and think thru each shot. Keeps me safer! I think Rem. now has a multi-load. Get a gun Rem./Hilti that's the easiest to find the shells/nail;s for in your area. My rental centers have both, but Rem. supplies sold more places. Listen to Davo's cautions/advice. Jeff

2. 
   Kent_Johnson | Mar 22, 2000 05:41am | #7

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   I am finishing a basement re room using steel framing. I need to anchor the lower runners to both old and new concrete. I am assuming that powder actuated fasteners are the way to go.

   Can someone with experience doing this advise me as to what caliber, power level, and length fastener they would recommend? The runner is only 25 gauge steel and I don't want to tear right through it.

   Thanks for the help.