Replies

1. 
   john7g | Oct 01, 2006 02:41am | #1

   Ever see Tapcon screws?

1. 
   Jencar | Oct 01, 2006 02:57am | #4

   I've used them on concrete, never thought to use them on brick...what size drill bit would you use for a pilot hole for say, a 1/4" screw?
   Got some shelves 8ft x 2ft x 1 1/2" thick wrapped with galvanized metal to hang up; gonna put a 2x6 ledger on the wall to hold up the back edge, and some 3/8" all-thread up to the ceiling joists to hold up the front.Thanks, Jen

1. 
   Matt | Oct 01, 2006 03:30am | #8

   >> what size drill bit would you use for a pilot hole for say, a 1/4" screw? << it says right on the package and they usually sell the proper sized masonry drill bits right on the same display with the screws.  Drill into the mortar joints.  Often the bed joints have more mortar in them than the head joints.  If the item to be hung is really heavy use those expanding anchors.

   This peretty much covers it: http://www.concretefasteners.com/

   I like these for brick: http://www.concretefasteners.com/anchors-fasteners/sleeve/index.htm  What I always wondered is why they don't come in galvanized - by default...

    

    

1. 
   Jencar | Oct 01, 2006 04:38am | #9

   Thanks for the link.
   Haven't used sleeve anchors much. I like the part about "can be installed through object being fastened"
   Thanks again!

2. 
   cliffy | Oct 01, 2006 02:43am | #2

   I like the lead anchor route.
   have a good day

   Cliffy

1. 
   Jencar | Oct 01, 2006 02:58am | #5

   The brick's fairly new and not too crumbly, might try that route.
   Thanks, Jen

3. 
   Gunner | Oct 01, 2006 02:43am | #3

     Masonary nails in the mortor always work good for me.  Or those blue screw thingies. The name escapes me now. Tapcons that's it.

    

    

    

    

   The final answer is maybe. And that's definate.

   http://www.hay98.com/

1. 
   Jencar | Oct 01, 2006 03:05am | #6

   Why oh why do carpenters have to deal with masonry, concrete, drywall mud and stuff like that anyway?
   Jen

1. 
   Gunner | Oct 01, 2006 03:07am | #7

     I don't know. Kind of weird aint it?

    

    

    

    

   The final answer is maybe. And that's definate.

    

   http://www.hay98.com/

    

4. 
   Pierre1 | Oct 01, 2006 07:17am | #10

   This won't help, but...

   In the olden days, masons would set narrow strips of wood in the mortar, on the inside face only, on 3' centers, horizontally. Gave a good solid anchor for finishes, cabinets, etc.

    

    

5. 
   ponytl | Oct 01, 2006 07:38am | #11

   don't know the look you are after  but i like angle iron on the back vs your 2x6  2x2x1/8  the ancors i prefer we call em "slamers" but they are lead mushroom head with a steel pin.... hammer drill a 1/4 hole (pilot hole already in the angle iron) and "slam em" in with a hammer an ur done... I like your hang'n with all thread... i use to build commerical bars  and would hang a ton of stuff would use pipe or copper tube over the all thread as spacers between shelfs depending on the "look"

   p

1. 
   Jencar | Oct 01, 2006 05:56pm | #12

   The angle iron would be strong and not show as much, but I'll be furring out the wall under the shelves with 2x4 (the wall has about 8 pieces of conduit running down it with outlets, etc) and then covering the wall with 1/2 plywood, so the shop teacher can hang tools on it.
   I worked with guys that used those hammer set anchors for everything, cause they're fast and easy. If you want to take them back out tho, you have to chisel off the head.
   I once had to hang a chin up bar for the football team (200 plus pounders)on a brick wall, and I wouldn't trust anything else but all thread and epoxy.
   Enjoy your weekend, Jen

6. 
   renosteinke | Oct 01, 2006 07:05pm | #13

   Folks, he DID say "heavy." Tapcons, nails, plastic anchors are fine for the light stuff, but that's all.

   First of all, not all 'brick' is created equal. If his brick is the soft 'terra cotta' stuff we use here, then his method is the way to go- unless he wants to run the rods all the way through, and secure to a steel plate on the other side.

   If the brick is a hard, fired brick (as used in Chicago), and he has the tools to make precise holes, then either wedge anchors or drop-ins work well.
   Wedge anchors are bits of all thread, with metal cones and collars at the end. The idea is that the cone wedges against the collar as the nut tries to pull the stud out.
   "Drop-ins" are a vastly improved lead anchor. You have to make your holes the right depth; drop the anchor in, then hit the wedge inside the anchor to expand the base.

1. 
   Jencar | Oct 01, 2006 08:33pm | #14

   Drop ins are great on concrete. I guess if I drilled a slightly smaller hole and used the kind w/o the lip on the edge, I could sink them deep enough to grab (ditto with lead shields)
   Thanks, Jennifer

1. 
   maddog3 | Oct 03, 2006 12:44am | #16

   here are two links for lead ...or concrete machine screw anchors....http://www.confast.com/concrete-fasteners.htmand this "expander " from Greenlee, it is a must if you hit a void,or drill too deep. it will set the anchor flush with the surface every timehttp://www.mygreenlee.com/products/det.cfm?id=4617&upc=02667the sets are available in three sizes....
   10-24...................#866
   1/4-20..................#867and
   3/8-16...........#870.

   .

   .

   .Wer ist jetzt der Idiot

   ?

1. 
   Jencar | Oct 03, 2006 03:38am | #17

   Thank you for the links...they are a valuable reference that will help decide which anchors are best for a particular application. I've decided to use the Tapcon screws (we have a shipload of them in the fastner closet)just have to countersink them into the 2x4's to get them sunk deep enough.
   Thanks again...

7. 
   JTC1 | Oct 03, 2006 12:03am | #15

   Jennifer,

   I guess it depends on how heavy you are talking about.  Here is another product which no one has mentioned - Alligator Anchors by Toggler.

   I have used the AF8 model which requires a 5/16" pilot hole - insert the plastic anchor and screw in your fastener - do not confuse these with drywall anchors!  Go to their site at http://www.toggler.com , click on technical info, scroll down to the Alligator Solid Wall Anchor section and check out the shear and pull out test numbers before you say no-way.  Note that the maximum holding power is developed with fasteners which closely approach the size of the pilot hole.    Lowes carries them locally, however, I think there is a "find a dealer near you" icon on their site. Lot less messy than epoxy!

   Luck,

   Jim

   Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.

   Edited: link may not work directly, it is the right address.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 10/2/2006 5:20 pm ET by JTC1

1. 
   Jencar | Oct 03, 2006 03:43am | #18

   About 200 lbs in 8 ft.of shelving (including load)
   Next time I'm at Blowes I'll look for the Alligator Anchors and give them a try.
   Thanks, Jen

1. 
   JTC1 | Oct 03, 2006 02:40pm | #19

   Well within their wieght limits and easy.

   Jim

   Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.