Hey,
I am trimming out about a dozen andersens. 2 x 6 studwalls.
I need to make some extension jambs. Do you create the “slot” that insets or do you just screw the flat extension in…ignoring the recessed groove?
FWIW, have a router but not a lot of experience with it. DIY here.
TIA for any advise.
Todd
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Replies
I make the dado. That makes it a lot easier to line up and install consistently.
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Pif,
Aren't the dados tapered? Use a table saw or router?Todd
just a router table, but could easily be done on a TS too.
Actually it is a rabbet.
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Thanks for all the input...you guys are great. I'll give my local HD a call. That's the path of least resistance and there's lots of other projects pending. Todd
I've ignored the groove. And I've used it as reveal. I never screwed the ext. on, just nailed. On some there are balances behind the upper part, don't use 2 1/2" nails.
Also, you can get ext' jamb stock from the supplier that mates.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Shere,
Split vote? Could you explain how you use it as your reveal?Understand about the issue of nailing too deep...kinda like the pocket door thingy. Not sure about the mention of the nail length, though. Extensions for a 6" wall is 2"...you telling me that a 2.5" nail is too long?Todd
2.5" is OK for THAT, I had various dimensions, on old whacky walls.
If I am picturing these right, there is a small groove in the jamb, I had a builder who wanted that to be another "step" in the reveal..In other words, hold the ext away from the edge closest to the glass, and leave that small bit of jamb exposed,then another reveal when the casing was applied. Makes for a small area to aim for attaching the ext. but it looked OK.
Normally, I have had the windows sent with 2x6 specced, or factory supplied the ext.s with the units, sometimes installed, some times not. Depends on the make.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
dunno, leaving that gap seems wacky to me.I ordered my Andersens in two batches. The first bunch I remembered extensions and they sure make it quick and easy. The second--about a dozen--I forgot. Hence my inquiry.Todd
No, you hold the ext just to the edge and cover the gap.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Sorry, misunderstood.Todd
I can drive in and pick up Andersen extension jamb stock in 12' lengths anyplace that sells Andersen windows.Ordering with the window means you don't have to cut it to length is all.
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I just learned that HD stocks Andersen extension jamb stock. The guy from the millwork dept. pointed this out after I forgot to order ext. jambs for 2 windows.
Not hard to mill it up onsite out of whatever stock matches (clear pine of PFJ pine), I usually do it on the table saw with a dado blade.
I just learned that HD stocks Andersen extension jamb stock.
This...I gotta see.
Why would Andersen get involved with HD? Are they trying to start a dealer revolt?
?????HD has been selling Andersen windows for ages now
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HD has been selling Andersen windows for ages now
HA! Where have I been?
I know what happened. About ten-twelve years ago I looked at the windows they were selling and laughed. Haven't looked since.
There are limitations. Andersen only stocks about a third of what Andersen has available and you cannot special order any of their other windows not on the HD list. To do that and get options for all the sizes from Andersen, you have to deal with a real supplier.
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I've always run a tongue on the extension to fit the groove since it's so easy -- I just use a 1/4" tongue bit (from a T&G set) on the router table. I use a bit of TB glue and nails, if the extension isn't too long for 'em.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
I have an old router table unused for years. Seems a good time to dig it out.Todd
Just found this pic of the last set I did this on -- white oak trim & extensions.
View Image
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
WAAA...my SO says "paint."Nice glass wall, like the "baseboard," too.Todd
Do jamb extensions NECESSARILY have to be attached to the factory jambs? I have had similar situations where I had need of 2" extensions and just nailed them to the framing, shimmed out of course to give equal reveals at the factory jambs.
Yeah, I've done that too. Think that was what Hudson was suggesting.Todd
I need to make some extension jambs
The last time I trimmed a house with that combination, Andersen windows and 2X6 walls, I made my own jambs out of 1X4 clear pine.
I began by cutting each jamb to length and then scribing it in place for width (the framing was pretty bad), holding it against the factory installed stop. I then used a jig saw to cut the scribed line, leaving enough for a pass with my block plane to smooth the surface.
Next I drilled several holes, the size of a 6d finish nail, at a steep angle on the back side of the piece. If I was doing it now I'd use my Kreg pocket hole jig instead.
With the finish nails snugly in their holes, I positioned the jamb against the stop and drove each nail using a nail set to reach into the narrow space.
Edited 11/20/2008 1:07 pm by Hudson Valley Carpenter
Hud,
Well, I don't have to worry about scribing. I did the framing/rocking. Slow but careful...depth is pretty dead on.Are you saying you nailed the extensions to the 2x jamb frames? That's what I did with extensions in my last home.Todd
Are you saying you nailed the extensions to the 2x jamb frames?
Nope. I nailed them to the 5/4 Andersen jambs, against the supplied wooden stop, on the inside of the 5/4 jamb. The stop was tacked in place at the factory so I finished nailing it before applying my extension jambs
Glad to hear that you'll be able to rip your jambs on a table saw. Much simpler and faster than the method I had to use. Although, after planing all that pine, I did end up with the biggest pile of long curly shavings I've ever seen.
I use a trimhead screw here and there, but mostly just glue. I ripscribe the fits the same as you, then to install, I run a bead of glue on the piece and slap it it, But before that, I have made up a bunch of scraps of 3x3 plywood. I place that lapping over the ext jamb where the casing will be going, and run a screw in to it, to apply pressure to hold the ext jamb in place while glue kicks. After 3-4 windows, I can go back and pull those blocks off the first one to re-use on the next one.Sometimes, I make up the whole surrond - sill and three jamb extensions all put together before mounting to the window. Depends whether I have room for a table to do that on.
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I use glue and trim head screws as well. I've almost always framed with 2x6 so this is SOP for me. I usually rip my own out of clear white pine and run a rabbit on the TS. Couple of nails at the corners.
scraps of 3x3 plywood. I place that lapping over the ext jamb where the casing will be going, and run a screw in to it, to apply pressure to hold the ext jamb in place while glue kicks.
That's a pretty neat clamping idea. More secure with glue too.
Edited 11/20/2008 7:02 pm by Hudson Valley Carpenter
Your profile says central PA- Schmucks Lumber in Hanover is an Andersen dealer and got mine for me lickity split. Came out of a warehouse near Harrisburg. I'm not a good enough woodworker to make my own. If you're as slow as I am you could go and get the original Andersens quicker than fabbing them up. I was retrofitting a bunch and only had two new installations- those kits sure are easy. I used trim head screws with mine and the casing covered it up nice as can be.