Stopped by a customer’s house to go over some work. One of the items he wanted to get fixed were his Anderson Casement windows. These windows are large, 35″w x 55″ h, one crank per window.
The windows won’t latch at the top when they are cranked in. The bottom touches but the top is away from its latch by up to an inch. All the windows act the same way.
During a quick look, the windows did not seem to be out of alignment. I put a level on the window when it was cranked almost all the way in and it was not plumb (top was out) . Wasn’t sure if the weight of the window could be a facto in it not being plumb.
Anyone have any ideas on a cause/fix. Thanks
Replies
I'd say that was one of the common faults with casements, especially large ones. Pushing up on the top rail will, usually, get the frame to close. The screen has to be removed. Sometimes the hardware has come a little loose but most times it's the window frame that has succumb to gravity. The glass can also be affected and the seal broken on some thermopane units.The frames may be warranted to some extent by Andersen. They pro-rate older windows and may offer a reasonable price for replacement sash. No labor, though. Those will sink in time also. The Andersen reps in my area will come out and do an inspection. I'd call them first.
There is an adjustment which can be done in the top arm.
The arm may have been installed improperly and/ or is out of alignment.
Have you taken the window off and laid it on a flat surface to confirm that it has not warped or twisted.
Check these things out before you call Anderson. This way, they will understand that you have ruled out the basics and will take the discusiont to the next level.
Frankie
Experiment with the placing of the ingredients on the plate. Try the mozzarella on the left, the tomato in the middle, the avocado on the right. Have fun. Then decide it goes tomato, mozzarella, avocado. Anything else looks stupid.
Richard E. Grant as Simon Marchmont - Posh Nosh
Check the seals all around. Sometimes they slip loose and prevent the wondow from closing.
Make sure the frame is in plane, and not racked. Using tape fasten two pieces of string to the outside of the window frame in a crisscross pattern. If there is no gap between the two in the middle, reverse the overlap of the string and check for a gap again. If there is no gap, the frame is in plane. If there is a gap the distance is equal to half the amount the window frame is out of plane.
You can use this method for door frames, slabs, windows and sashes.
make sure that there are no screws that are used to hold the window there preventing the window from closing
I'll sound like a sissy posting this, but I always call the factory tech person for stuff like that. There's a guy around here that subs to a few of the larger window manufacturers to handle their field calls. He's very adept at dealing with everything to do with window adjustments and there's no way I want to cut in on his turf. I'm quite sure Anderson has a similar person for you if you don't feel like learning about those windows.
I have to agree with you David.
I have dealt with the same lumber yard for 20+ years. They are big Andersen fans and make sure I get the support I want or need for the products I purchase. Even though I don't come close to purchasing a fraction of the units a small builder might, I get the same support.
At the current cost of Andersen windows, they have to work hard to support tier products as part of the marketing strategies. Even older units get tier support around here. Marvin and few others are always out there with replacement products for failed Andersen units.
Dave