Angle Grinder Cut Off Wheel Question
MeasureThrice
| Posted in Tools for Home Building on
Is there a reason that for 5/8″ arbors the max diameter type 1A (flat) wheel is 4″?
I’m looking at using a 4-1/2″ angle grinder in a jig (it will be very similar to a table saw in use). Virtually every 4-1/2″ grinder has a 5/8″ arbor, yet the 5/8″ type 1A cut off wheels from Bosch, Dewalt, Makita have a 4″ diameter.
I can only guess that there is a reason for this, but I don’t have a clue.
Replies
Don't know for shure what gives, but I have 5 grinders, 3 HF, One corded dewalt and a cordless dewalt. I have box of washers or arbor adapters and can use just about any 4'' or 4.5'' accessory just by flipping the washers around or omitting the back one.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Go away rain.
Your shopping at the wrong place???
Do a web searh for the type wheels in the diameter you want, you'll be suprised.
BTW My local welding store carries a far better stock of grinding tools than the Home Depot.
If you can share your search string and which engine (google, yahoo, etc.) you used I'd appreciate it. I spent a fair amount of time looking and couldn't come up with what I wanted.I'm looking for a very narrow (approx. 1/16") type 1A wheel to cut thin metal. I found lots of them with 4" diameter.Strangely enough I found some 4-1/2" in diameter, but with 7/8" arbor holes. (To simplify changing wheels a 5/8" arbor hole is my desire).
I can't recall the name but my local welding supply shop (apex welding) has a wide assortment of thin cut off wheels. I have bought 4", 4.5", 5" and 6".I don't know what size arbor hole I am buying but like sphere have and assortment of backing plates and bushings that allow me to run just about anything.It seems that the threaded shaft is 5/8" but the wheel doesn't center off that shaft, rather it centers on a thick washer that has a larger diameter hub than the shaft. More than likely it is 7/8".Just take a look at the grinders on the shelf in the store and it will be apparent you are missing a vital part of yours.I think even home depot sells both hilti and norton cut off wheels in 4.5" and Hilti in 5" that fit all my angle grinders.Karl
MT-
It might be to help eliminate putting the wrong wheel on a machine. Grinder wheel speeds are often not matched to the tool and the overspeed can cause them to shatter, sometimes causing god awful injuries. Make sure you compare the speed ratings - and use the guard.
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
I thought most angle grinders had a 5/8 x 11 arbor, but the nut that kept the blade on wanted a 7/8 hole, to center properly. Anyway, I usually buy cut off wheels at an industrial or welding supply, like ox-arc or norco.
The .045 cut off wheels are great, very fast. Dewalt also makes them, but they shred faster than the ones from the welding store.
zak
"When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone." --John Ruskin
"so it goes"
Thanks to all:
Well I reconfirmed that, as far as I can google, there are NO 4-1/2 x .045 x 5/8 Type 1A wheels in existence.I wanted the 5/8" arbor hole to avoid dealing with washers and etc. as the tool will be in a fixed jig and washers might require three hands to change wheels.The typical 7/8" adapter that comes with angle grinders is too thick for use with a .045 wheel. It looks like a reusable 5/8-11 adapter is what I need http://www.arizonatools.com/detail/UA95055/However, since this tool will be fully enclosed I don't need the guard. A possibility is a 6 x .045 x 5/8 wheel (rated for the proper RPMs).As to my original question, "why aren't there any 4-1/2 x .045 x 5/8 wheels". I can only guess that there is no market for them.
Does your backing washer not have two sides with a side marked marked for thin wheels? On all of mine I am pretty sure I either do that or just leave it out when I run my diamond wheels.
edit: oh, never mind, I see what you'd need.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Go away rain.
Edited 10/17/2006 2:08 pm ET by Sphere
I you know the brand/part number of a "dual thickness" backing washer I'd love to know about it.
Actually, for my Dwalt cord less it is the spanner nut on the front IIRC. Everything is out buried in the van at the moment, but I'll double check when working tomorrow.
Ok, just checked the HF cheapie, the BACK washer is reversable for wheel thickness and there is a front squash washer that clamps the wheel / disk but does NOT contact the hub of the back washer..the spanner is just plain flat on both sides on that grinder.
I have used the chainsaw type cutter, cut off wheels, grinders and flappers on all of mine inter changeably and have cut off discs of various sizes and arbor diameters.
What brand grinder do you have?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Go away rain.
I'm in the market for a new grinder. I have a cheap HF paddle switch grinder now that I've only used to cut masonry. (In other words, this world of thin wheels to cut metal is brand new to me).This entire thread started because I was trying to find a 4-1/2" x 5/8 x .045 cutting wheel before I made my grinder purchase. I didn't want to get the grinder and then find out that it wouldn't do what I want. :-)I'm trying to make a jig/machine that cuts thin-walled steel golf club shafts, while capturing the resultant "dust". I wanted a .045 wheel so that less dust would be produced when making cuts.The machine, built for a friend, would get a fair bit of work every day, so I wanted more wheel life. I guessed that 4-1/2" would be better than 4", but don't really know. I'm also guessing that 6" would be even better.Any advice would be appreciated.
Edited 10/17/2006 6:56 pm ET by MeasureThrice
I'd cut the tubeing on a bandsaw if there was alot.
Anything BUT a HF if ya want a grinder/cut off tool that will last.
I only got my cheapies to burn up while grind/sand logs in my home. I use a corded Dwalt for welding/metal cutoff and a cordless for cutting in flashing grooves at work.
Take yer pic, they are all about the same really ( the good ones that is). Just HF are short lived at 20 bucks or less, while a Makita or Dwalt is about 100.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Go away rain.
You are 100% correct about HF. The plan was to get a GOOD grinder.I'm curious why would you pick a bandsaw?BTW - the entire reason for this project is to cut down on "dust" in the friend's workplace. I showed him some of Bill Pentz' articles (billpentz.com/woodworking/) and he took them to heart. Right now he uses a chopsaw to cut the steel shafts.Thankfully he cuts graphite shafts with a wet tile saw. This is something that the clubmakers have been doing lately to eliminate the graphite dust from their shops. In the past you'd see places just covered with layers of grayish black graphite dust. Not very good for your health.
A grinder actually doubles the dust. You have both the metal sparks/ and the wheels abrasive particles.
I have made guitar necks reinforced with both Graphite and 3/8th sq steel rod. All cutting for that was done on a saw , the dust colection is better ( and cooler) due to the shroud (if using an upright saw) or it falls below a horizontal type saw.
Also you can gang a multiple parts with saw and walk away while it cuts ( again a horizontal set up ). Flip the saw upright and it is ready to reload.
AND NO sparks, or stink.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Go away rain.
O.K. you've got me interested in the bandsaw :-)Any suggestions on what kind? Benchtop size is about all he currently has room for.Thanks by the way for the help!
If he is small time, a 14'' bandsaw can be squeezed in fiarly easily ( believe me) I have a rigid from about 7 yrs ago, sweet saw. Lose the base and set it on a bench , I have mine on a dolly for moving around.
A horizontal metal cut off saw WILL take some floor space, so I'd not go chasing that down, but Jet ( I think has a decent one).
The blade is the key, and a 14'' saw with a 93 1/2'' blade has a decent assortment of metal cutting teeth sizes. I can cut solid stock ( soft steel and such up to about 1/2" thick with a bi-metal wood blade).
For tubing ya want many teeth, adding a step pully an slowing the blade will make the saw even MORE versitile.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Go away rain.
I'm guessing that a 14" bandsaw will be out of his price range for now. He is trying to get his business established.From an economics point of view I think his options are going to be a good quality angle grinder or something like the Delta 10" bandsaw. The design I have for the angle grinder "jig", which will be hooked up to a vacuum system, looks like it will capture 99.999% of the dust.
Good luck which ever way it goes, and be certain to NOT suck sparks into dusted vacuum...they CAN go poof! Albeit rarely.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Go away rain.
Good point! The air will go from the tool into a 5 gallon bucket, which will contain some water, and then into the vacuum system.The bucket will have an entry pipe that the tool's air will flow into. The entry pipe will go below the surface of the water. The water should trap anything that would cause a problem.It is possible that he'll use an existing shop vac for his initial dust collection system. The water bath will also protect the shop vac's motor from any shorts due to the "dust".Thanks again!
Check this out
http://www.dustmuzzle.com/pages/dust_muzzle.shtmlAlso Metabo makes really good grinders. Mine has a TOOLESS blade change feature.http://www.metabousa.com/metabo/handgefuehrte/us/en/produkte/anglegrinder/anglegrinderwe9125quick_6_00925_42.html
I've had 2 of the DeWalt 4 1/2" grinders, and found that (on the old one, haven't tried the new one yet) 5" cutoff wheels just clear the guard. I got the wheels at HD for a buck or two apiece.
http://www.nortonabrasives.com/
more than you ever wanted to know..
pick yur flavor..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Thanks, but I've looked at Norton's offerings. They don't have what I want.As I said, I have yet to find a 4-1/2 x .045 x 5/8 Type 1 wheel.
type 1 is diamond... not abrasive..
the big orange carries that on the shelf in a Bosch... 40$ IIRC...
they're called crack chasers.... Bosch wheels are the .040 and .050 thickness...
they can be had in 4.5 x 5/8 @ .250, .375, .040, .050, .070 or .086..... (7/8 also).. some are in milimeters.. you'll have to do the conversion...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I'm sorry, I should have said Type 1ATo be more precise, I'll restate that I have NOT been able to find a Type 1A (flat, not cupped, abrasive) wheel that is 4-1/2" (diameter) x .045" (thickness) x 5/8" (arbor hole).I have looked at catalogs by Makita, Bosch, Dewalt, Norton, United Abrasives, Sait, Metabo, Radnor (and I'm sure there were a few others).EVERY one of the above has Type 1A 4-1/2" x .045" x 7/8", but none with a 5/8" arbor hole.
why are you specifying .045?
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I'm cutting very thin walled tubing (golf club shafts). A thin kerf will reduce the amount of dust produced.I've done test cuts with a 4" x 1/16" wheel and it worked fine. A few catalogs said that .045 wheels last longer.
try type 41 instead and they come in 1/16", 3/32" or .040 flat..
.045 is type 42 in depressed center or 5" dia flat or larger..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
what kind of machine are you using?
can it be changed out to accept 5"?
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Edited 10/18/2006 6:19 pm by IMERC
The machine, material, etc. have all been covered earlier in this thread.
what brand of grinder...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Almost all angle gringers have a 5/8 arbor with washers to center a 7/8 hole wheel, both inner and outer washer nuts have a 7/8 inch ring about 1/16 high, allowing the wheel to center and not rest on a directly rotating shaft. The outer nut often is flat, or concave on one side for skinny cut off wheels. You need to use a 7/8 hole wheel on your grinder of choice, but use the provided washers correctly.IIRC you said you have a grinder but want to get one for a jig. Tale a good look at your instructions and grinder. Like a circ saw, the wheels are not meant to center on the arbor threads.
Thanks! What you say makes a lot of sense.I've only used an angle grinder for a single project and that was with a masonry cupped wheel. The 7/8" adapter that came with the grinder was way too thick to accommodate a .045" wheel.I asked several "experts" at Big Orange, etc. about what I needed and all I could get was "that grinder costs X dollars".It looks like keeps coming around to the arbor adapter. I'd like to get a grinder that would come with the needed adapter instead of spending 20 some odd bucks for one like I referenced before.
I just caught up to this thread, does it have to be a grinder? A grinder on a golf club shaft is like running over a dog house with a sherman tank.
I have played golf pretty much my whole life, and have worked on my own clubs for 3/4 of that. I have a few suggestions for cutting shafts.
A dremel and a metal cutting wheel, works great you can cut down a few sets of shafts with one disk. It cuts steel and graphite shafts very clean.
A tubing cutter for plumbing, costs about 8 dollars for a good one. It cuts steel shafts great. No dust no mess. But not good on graphite.
Excellent points! Your solutions work well for a low volume hobbyist, especially the tube cutter which is the typical tool of choice for steel shafts.However, this guy has a production shop and needs to crank things out quickly to make money. By the time you do the tip and butt cuts with a tube cutter on a single shaft a grinder would have completed the cuts on six or seven shafts.
Just a few suggestions I had, thought I would pass them on.
Last time I checked tip trimming is a bad idea. It changes the flex point of the shaft. It creates a lower launch angle by putting the flex point closer to the head. Not a good idea for high handicappers, ladies, or senior citizens.
Maybe I am wrong.
By sheer chance I found the solution. The Titleist fitting van was in the neighborhood and I stopped by. They were using an angle grinder to cut shafts!They use a 4-1/2 x 0.45 x 7/8 FlexOvit Razorblade cutting wheel, like this
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_356260_356260They guy told me he trims about 1,500 shafts before he changes wheels. He changes wheels when its diameter is roughly three inches. Much better than I would have guessed!
what specfic material are you working on???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!