I think I’m about to get one of these:
http://www.toolcenter.com/mitersawhelper.html
I’ve been using one on a job and am sold on the continuous table surface, not just for cutting but because it’s so convenient. There does not seem to be another miter saw stand like it. It’s definitely a pain to lug around.
Is there anything else out there?
Replies
One thing I wonder is how much time you have to spend to get the extensions to line up with the center table, since they're apparently separately supported. When setting up on an uneven surface this could be a problem.
As luck would have it I just bought a $99 cheapie at HD. Not planning to use it for my (cheapie B&D) miter saw so much as to use with a biscut cutter jig when working om my current project. (I don't have a long workbench in my "hide-a-workshop" in the garage. One advantage of this unit is that it's light and folds up compactly.) I'll maybe give a report on it in a week or two.
dave..in the link it looks like yur basic pos..
we have the rigid ( $99 on sale at HD for a while...now back to the old $199).. it's ok.. looks superior to the one in your link..
but the one i like is the same one ProDeck uses... the Dewalt... you transport tht saw and stand seperately..but the stand is light enough and the DW 705 or 706 is light enough too..the stand opens to almost 16' with the right and left extended, and there is a base you mount on your saw so the MS snaps on and off the stand in a NY minute
our Bosch 10" sliding compound is on the rigid... but it spends most of it's time waiting for a trim job.. the DW/DW is our everyday workhorse.. just so convenient
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
here's our Bosch on the rigid stand...Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
"..... it looks like yur basic pos.."
Said by someone trying to hide theirs with a tarp. :)
David,
I have 2 of the stands your looking at. They are made by AD&E (American Design & Engineering)
I like them better then any other stand I've tried. Setup and takedown time is minimal. The wings are not set up independent of the saw as someone suggested, but has a coupler that is mounted on the saw.
They are pricey, but imo worth it.
Barry
Edited 7/17/2004 6:31 pm ET by Barry E
my gosh , barry.. i didn't think you'd be able to see it.. i'm so embarrassedMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
haha...hey mike, is that what they call ...sarcasm?
barry
I think unless you used one of these you wouldn't appreciate it. There are two or three around a huge house I'm working on. All the trim is getting coped, and the stand lets you slide the cut end down to the end of the stand and cope it there... or belt sand or plane something on it, and it's quite rigid.
They have the DeWalt stands at the lumberyard here. Nicely made but as I said I'm hooked on the 13 feet of continuous bed.
do the stops adjust easily and flip out of the way?
that's the biggest lack of the rigid & dwMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
The stop is fine... heavily made and easy to adjust, easy to flip. The stand I've been using lost its measuring scale, but in theory a guy could keep the thing accurate and use the stop and scale together without measuring. You mount a couple of brackets on the saw itself, and the two pieces of table connect to that, so it's supposed to be an accurate repeatable setup. The thing I don't like is that it's hard to move.... disconnect both tables, take the saw off the stand, move the stand, move the saw, move the tables (one at a time), reconnect the tables, and damn.... it's time for break. But I guess if you like solid, rugged equipment that means lotsa METAL. Where I've been the painters are chasing me around, and I move it a couple times per week. Set up in one spot for a long period and it would be hard to beat. I just have not seen another stand with a continuous table. The piece you're cutting is supported no matter how long or short it is.
dave.. that's always my quandry... do i drag it out of the trailer, or make the cut with something else..
right now we set up our table saw and the dewalt 705, all our guns, all our different nails, airhoses, all our cords, all our skill saws....
3-ring circus..
now ..if we're running trim or making railings...
since we're remodelers,it's difficult to actually do things the same way twice, much as we try to set up SOP's...
i guess what i'm trying to weigh is flexibility vs. best tool..
if we were a one or two-man operation... that would be one thing..or if we were specialists..but we do it all...and we all have preferences and our own favorites.. most of the time i just let them get it done, rather than worrying which tool ...
so we have two chop-saw stands.. why not three ?
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike
I'm in much the same situation, except i have a smaller crew than you and no trailer. I do have a third stand I use for shorter set up times and when I have 2 mitersaws set up on the same job . it's the one by Iowa Manufacturing.
http://www.bobstools.net/Store/28XWC36.html
The Flipstop is great and easy to use, wish I gotten it with the first stand, but i was to cheap
Barry E-Remodeler
View Image
Really nice photo. Maybe next time we could move the tarp away from the item we wanted to show. Just a thought. LOL. DanT
I have the ridgid stand, had a delta, and had homemade.
As far as having a continuous table, I sometimes just leave a length of fascia or 1x8 or whatever I can muster up , ON the saw stand and saw table..with either my 8.5'', 10'' or 12'' (the 10'' is not a slider), it seldom poses a depth of cut problem..actually helps some times, if the bottom "table" is secured in place ( with a screw or clamp, the kerf is readily seen on the bottom, and it acts like a zero clearance support.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
dan... those were posted from my office computer and the pics i wanted weren't on it..
here's some shots,,
our 8'saw table , 3/4 ply top.. 1/4 ply sides, drop section at one end for the table saw (PC), 2d drop section about 2/3 down the holds our BenchDog router table with Pro-lift... or our delta 12" planer...
that section has a plywood top if all you're doing is ripping on the saw
next a couple shots of the new bosch 10" slider on a rigid utility stand..
and a couple shots of our DW705 and DW standMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike, I see you have a remodelors toothpick, that Wizard demo bar on the wall looking over your shoulder at the router table. We couldn't ever start a remo job without one.
I had looked at that Rigid stand a few weeks ago and liked the wheels but the lack of worktop space is what lost me.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
this one ?.... yes , but i've got two others that we like even better... picked them up at Quaker Lane Tool..
which oughta be on everyone's list of " must see" if you come to RhodeFest.. great tool store
View ImageMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Yeah, that one.
And Yeah, gotta see more tools.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
piffen.. i built this saw / router / planer table after seeing a picture of Larry 's workbench...
it's light enough to pick up by myself and puts the saw at a good working ht.
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
thats a good idea, mind if I steal it?
and where does the planer go, or did I miss that?
the planer either goes on the top with it's trays or in the same drop as the router , only with a baseMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
that place you're booked into.. same town as Quaker Lane Tool.. right down the street from HD.. but their business hasn't slacked a bit since HD opened about 3 years ago..
anyways.. a sidetrip ( ten-fifteen minutes from your motel ) to QLT would be in order.. also a block away from Allie's Donuts...
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Ask Allie to hol' a donut for me. I like Glazed
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Would you bring me a couple choc covered fried cakes over to mikes?
thanksRemodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Maybe. My wife is a chocolate addict so they might not survive the trip.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Better get a half dozen. 10 min drive...........should be a couple left.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I liked the look of that one too. Too bad it is so expensive, particularly when you can make the tables out of some simple boards. I'm not to fond of rollers after having owned several types. Your long off cuts will go rolling south. Same with ball bearings. Long stock bounces around out there unless you have a long long reach with the rollers. Even a short table takes the bounce and flop out of the picture. Having a long table that is attached to the saw allows you to use a stop for repetitive cuts. On siding, the cut man is so far ahead he has time to start the next side. Framing parts come out perfectly the same. It is amazing how much time is saved and how the quality goes up when your not yanking out a tape for every cut. The fence does not have to line up perfectly as long as it is not sticking out proud. I have to wonder about the stand on that unit especially outdoors in soft ground. It would also have to withstand any side to side movement indoors or out. I just use a non folding tool table and support my tables with some cheep old tripod roller stands bought before anyone was making stands. I have not been very happy with most of the folding style roller stands. They like to collapse. The tripod style can stand a little push.
It is an excellent stand. Ive had one for ten or twelve years and never even had to readjust the alignment. Its outlasted two saws. I got it for about half price at one of the trade shows. Uneven ground isnt a problem at all. It can sink in really soft ground but a few scraps under the feet take care of that. After the first set up it sets up in one or two minutes. My only complaint is it is kind of heavy and all the pieces are hard to carry at one time.
I have the ultrafence and it is a moneymaker for me. I have a tape coming from the blade and one that sets to the stop. Both are accurate. I have a frailer, so toting it around is no problem. Setting it up is quick and easy. It holds 16 ft. 2x10's with no problem. Its a lot of money, but its the best saw stand I've used. I've tried several. I hire less experienced guys occasionally, so having the tape measure already on the saw fence makes it easy for them to cut fairly quickly without having to pull the tape measure from the bags and mark every time you need to make a cut. I'd pay for one again if I needed to, rather than buy a less expensive, but not as good quality stand.
i noticed that jim anderson of Great White is using a pretty heavy-duty chop saw stand in his article on framing ..
maybe jim will tell us what make that one isMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
David
I've used one of those at a place I used to work for. I think they are great, a lot better than those things everybody has been getting at the Depot.
They are a little inconvenient to move about but if you don't have to do it to often than it's no big deal.
Doug
Not to divert your thread....but in an attempt to illustrate why I refuse to purchase one of these gizmos and give you food for thought, I`m wondering what those who use them do for the myraid of other tasks performed around the cutting station. Planeing, routing, coping, sanding etc. Do you guys set up a seperate work station for these tasks? As antiqueted as my sawhorses and workbench top may appear sitting next to one of these stands, I`d be lost without such a work center on the job. Seems silly to me to lug around the extra equiptment.
Input apreciated.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
I always have a 4' X 8' outfeed table set up for the tablesaw, which usually doubles as the all purpose work center. works for me
The majority (80%) of my saw use is interior work, but have used it for ext. work and it's not a problem
My first AD&E stand is probably 10 yrs old and I bought the 2nd one coupla yrs ago at the Indianapolis Remodelors Show. They are always wheelin & dealing at the shows. :) Both of my stands have a 8' wing on the left and 5' on the right. I like the way they break down and fit in my van.
Barry
build your own
Hey, that's a very nice setup. Now I gotta think.... is there time for a whole-day project like that, and what if it rains (that happens here in WA).
I saw one of those stands at a Remodelers show at Indy a few years back. Really liked it. Looked it over and talked with the guy. He was so push and demanding that I buy one today that I told him to jamb it and never bought one. Hard headed I guess. DanT
If it rains it gets wet. too bad. maybe all the measurements I scribble all over it disappear. Its not going to fall apart like some of the factory built jobs with particle board tables.
Mav...what you said. Pics are of my set-up...have built two of these. I use the silly (formerly useless) material rests that come with the saw, to plug the tables into the saw. Sorry if the files are too large...just haven't figured out how to re-size yet! I do have infranview, but...
Peace
David,
I noticed the ADE design a while ago and instantly thought it was the best I'd seen. I like that the ADE stand will give you 16'+ of support. Then I saw this:
http://forums.jlconline.com/photos/displayimage.php?album=17&pos=10
I am currently building my version of this stand. I bought a cheap HF workmate knock off for $15. Eventually I will build some ply infeed and outfeed wings with legs that will support about 8'10" from the blade. I will use clamps or a block screwed to the table surface for stops. I estimate I will save about $400, not including my time to make the stand.
Jon Blakemore
I too built my own (I trim new homes so I set up once on a job) The tables are 12" Trusjoist with a skin of 1/2" G1S plywood on the top. The 2 end tables are 6' 4" long (so they fit in my truck easily) and the 4' saw table has stops on it to hold the saw in the right spot. The whole setup comes down easily, sets up easy, is sturdy and is relatively inexpensive. We have used the tables as a temp scaffold when we were in a real pinch! And when it is setup you can easily sit on it. I like the fact that we can do a stop with a pice of 1x2 with a couple of quick brads . The table doesn't owe us a lot. The whole setup lends itself to our work (we use a stop to cut all our casing legs to a certain length as well as the door stops. Makes this job real easy. To cut long baseboard, the extra table on the right of the saw is a big help, because the cutoff doesn't fall off the table. We also have rough measurements on the tables to allow us to rough cut headers. (i.e. a 2'-6" door requires a header rough length of 37"- 30 + 3"+3"+1") This means taking out the tape 1 less time......
I made the table 12" wide to allow crosscutting ease when cutting wider panels....
Hope this helps..
Did you ask for help??? <G>First we get good- then we get fast !
I have had the ADE stand for about 4 years now and really like it. I have the 9' table on left and 5' table on right of saw. Folds up nice and fits in the van. Really like the work surface and the flip stops. Great for getting accurate cuts with a rookie cut man. Call down a length, cut man slides stop and locks in place faster than pulling out his tape and pencil, and I get the exact lenth every time.
Bought a few of the Ridgid stands back when they were selling them for $99, and now have the saw mounted on one. Still have the brackets for the ADE tables on the saw so I just roll the saw into place and set up the tables. The right side table can just be supported by the roller on the Ridgid stand but I still use the ADE leg for the longer left table. Works great.