Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story

From building boxes and fitting face frames to installing doors and drawers, these techniques could be used for lots of cabinet projects.
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
Normally I do this:
I plan for th eheader to insert immediately above the window as normal, and lay out and mark with pencil and adjustable square for all cuts.
Then I run the circ saw to start the cuts as deep as I can go
Then I finish them with the sawsall/reciprocating saw. Leave top of studs in place, and insert the header, shim it tight, and nail it off.
But
It sounmds like the studs you have are now worthless thanks to the plumbers, so you might as well take them out with a sledge and rebuild fresh.
Tghe sheathing will hold this for a day while you work.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
It sounmds like the studs you have are now worthless thanks to the plumbers, so you might as well take them out with a sledge and rebuild fresh.
it's just the studs on one side that they butchered out. on the other .. the shower side, they are ok. it's the over-the-window crips that i'm nervous about as its a whole run of support that will suddenly be gone. but i'm thinking i have little choice but to simply clear them out and proceed.
thanks!
How wide is the window? What is above it?
3 ft. wide ... gable end of house .. a room above on the 1/2 story.
Terry
btw piffin ... i'm sure you've heard this before .. but you are an incredibly handsome man.
T.
snork!yeah, once or twiceBut that's my limit. lay off now;)
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
How wide is the window? What is above it?
heres a pic ... (if it came through!)
Based on what I can see theere, I might put in two jack studs, at the knings farthur out from windowand cut all cripple stock out and land on those jacks, then shim window jacks tight to header. When working in from one siode of wall like this. I use adhesive against the sheathing and seat the studs into it since nailing sheathing through from outside is unlikely. I would also use some 3/8 plywood to replace the lathe. That gets you back to original wall thickness and adds some more overall integrity to the wall as a whole. And you will have an easier time of adding the towel bars and TP holder etc when done.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Based on what I can see theere, I might put in two jack studs, at the knings farthur out from windowand cut all cripple stock out and land on those jacks, then shim window jacks tight to header.
I think I've NEARLY got it. When you say "...put in two jack studs ... cut all cripple stock out and land on those jacks .." Do you mean to place the new header against the bottom of the second floor bottom plate ... right up tight against the top o the cavity ... after cutting out all the cripple-clutter ... and then shim in between the bottom of the new header and the top of the new jacks? I think that's what you're saying.
thanks again,
T.
yah
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!