I now have driveway pics to post…(thread#37450.93 & .97) A friend scanned them, emailed them to me and after trying to post, I could not, due to file size. Any suggestions anyone?? Also I would like to resize them to about 40-45%, but again had error messages…..something about needing ‘owners’ permission???
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Go to IRFANVIEW.COM..its free and it works.
Be a JPG
andy
My life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
thanks Andy... I'll try it
Andy,
I went to the website and resized my pictures. Now I'm trying to upload the pictures and after I've browsed for my picture and clicked on upload, nothing happens. I guess I'll wait for my daughter to come home and help me. Any thoughts?? Thanks for all your help!
Bob,
After you click the "Upload" button, it takes a while. I just tried one, and my "Upload" button was blue/teal. While it was working, it turned white, and turned back to blue when it was done. Also, when finished working, the following appeared below the "Done" button:
Current List of Attached Documents
reno1.jpg
65KB
EDIT: It took forever for me to upload. My button was white for at least 30 seconds, and it's only a 65kb pic. I have DSL, so it should have been sooner. If you have dial-up service, or your pics are larger, it might take long enough to seem like your computer is hung.
If everything seems to be going well, you've obviously overlooked something.
Edited 12/20/2003 11:22:53 AM ET by Mr. Pita
Hey .Pain in the azz....gorgous crib...post more pics
Be well
andyMy life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
I (almost) wish it were mine. Hell of a skylight, no? A pic from an old thread... check out my post (#8):
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=34220.1
Just some random pic I had handy when I went to demo the upload. Clicked "Browse" and it was the first/only pic in the default folder.If everything seems to be going well, you've obviously overlooked something.
whos is it????? WOWWWWWWW....I'm in love!My life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
I thought I waited enough...but I'll retry. My daughter didn't make it home last night ...still in Boston, but she reiterated what you said. Thanks
Don't Give Up Till' You Succeed!
Well here they are...these were taken by an amature (yours truly) with a cheap camera >>>EDITED for file size<<<jump to 37974.13 for pics
Edited 12/21/2003 5:56:07 PM ET by bob
Hey it works!!! Amazing..........
These pics are all 'after' the grade improvement. I raised the lower level a couple feet to lessen the angle of incline...I SURE wish I took before pics. It would have been a good supplement to my post 37450.97.
BTW I have more pics...especially one(FEAR FACTOR) of the front lawn, but the contrast(?) is waaay too dark. If I post can someone 'fool' with it to improve the quality??????????
Edited 12/21/2003 11:55:37 AM ET by bob
If I post can someone 'fool' with it to improve the quality??????????
Hi bob,
I'm certainly not your guy for that especially as I haven't seen them. Any chance you could reduce the size so us dial-up users could get them in a reasonable time frame? PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Bob,
It's not the size of the pic on the screen that makes a difference. It's the physical size of the file.
Go back to your original, larger pictures, and change them to .jpg's.
Here, I've done that for you.
.bmp's are very large size files.
A good rule of thumb to go by for posting...
If it is a photograph, then make it a .jpg. If it is a line drawing, then make it a .gif. Plus, 640x480 is a good size. I prefer larger pics, but most here prefer the 640x480.
Live, Love, Forgive and Forget
quittintime
Thanks Luka....your post was the SIZE I was trying to achieve. I did go back and try to change to jpg but it appears that I have to recreate this file. So, can I just change the current file to jpg? and if so how?
BTW can you use your ~skills~ to improve a pictures dark contrast?
Hmm...Andy did mention>>be a jpg<<
Edited 12/21/2003 6:49:34 PM ET by bob
You should get a graphics program.
My favorite is Paint Shop Pro. But a lot of people here use Irfanview.
Once you have your pic, as in the pics you first posted... Open the pic in your graphics program. Then look for the "save as" option. When you choose that option, look for .jpg. Save as .jpg.
Also in the graphics program, you'll find an option for gamma correction. That will change the brightness. It may or may not work.
Post your pic. Maybe someone can lighten it up.
Live, Love, Forgive and Forget
quittintime
Luka
Thanks again for all your help here...correcting my pics file size was a very thoughtful gesture, since I'm a 'day late and a dollar short' in regards to posting them. I believe that Irfanview will allow me to correct my error, its just that I really didn't want to go through creating a new file. Ever since I discovered BT, I've overspent my time budget considerably(I've spent it all here!!). I've stumbled here and there...but I learn fast. So now I need to learn the tricks to participate here and still continue with all my other current projects(I'm now about 2 weeks behind due to an addiction to BT)....lol, but that's my problem, not yours.
Since you already corrected the four I posted, I'll correct the remaining pics, if I feel there is any remaining interest. Though, I would like to post one 'fear factor' photo that I have, if someone can improve the quality. But I have to find the TIME to go back and start over at Irfanview. For some of you its probably a breeze, as for me.....its still a challenge.
Have a safe and Happy Holiday
As with anything else in life, there is a learning curve.
Give it time. Before you know it, you'll be surfing around, altering and posting pics like it was second nature.
As I said, just go ahead and post the pics.
Live, Love, Forgive and Forget
quittintime
Luka, thank you. Fast connection is available out in your boonies- or are you simply more patient than I am? Satellite's the answer here, but I don't want to pay for it.
Bob, the only one that made a lot of sense was "driveway up". Doesn't look like you have any drainage plan. Could that be? What's the slope?PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Dialup.
56k.
And lots of patience.
: )
Live, Love, Forgive and Forget
quittintime
VaTom...hello again
>> Bob, the only one that made a lot of sense was "driveway up". Doesn't look like you have any drainage plan. Could that be? What's the slope?<<
OK, so I flunked photography 101, 'LOL'... all I was trying to do was show the elevation difference and then I realized most, if not all of the photo's did not do this very well. But nonetheless, I posted anyway.
As far as drainage...temporarily, its crude, but effective. The hay bales along the driveway edge control the bank erosion along with the 4-6" of wood chips on the outer bank. The hay bales guide any excessive surface runoff to a culvert next to the street entrance. I've survived a quite a few torrential rain storms with no washouts. Also the drain tile on the driveway controls any washouts as well. This was my first attempt(no prior experience with driveway installation) at correcting a major disaster that the builder left. I'm surprised that a c/o was even issued considering that the original drive was only8- 9' wide and then a free fall/roll down to the bottom of the valley. I know that some drainage sys will be required before asphalt, just not sure what. All in all, the driveway is now SAFE and is STABLE. I had excellent results with the steep front yard(I planted grass) and was hoping maybe the same for the outer bank or use some type of ground cover. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only other need for drainage is to protect the 'future asphalt' from any undermining washout, right??
Hmmm..Slope angle--I'll keep it short(if I can!) STILL don't know!! Sort of backburner'd the GPS. The Garmin 72(I now know) will give me a fairly close #, but what I've learned is, I really need (or want) the GPS with the baro sensor(altimeter). That one will satisfy my sense'less'bilities, I just need some extra time to master the GPS 72 first. I have 30 days to exchange the '72' for an enhanced model with the sensor. I may just settle for the protractor or storypole.
I sure hope to shake this newbie stigma, here at BT, but for every one step forward, I lose two...sometimes, anyway!!
Any interest in the other pics? Some could show the elevation difference better.
>> ... I really need (or want) the GPS with the baro sensor (altimeter).
Is the barometer really more accurate and/or precise than the GPS? I wouldn't have expected that at all.
Edited 12/22/2003 12:44:50 AM ET by Uncle Dunc
Evening Uncle Dunc...or morning here-12:42AM
Nice to see ya... I thought I might have offended you in some other threads. I now know a little more about BT and how to participate, so- sorry if I did err.
>>
Is the barometer really more accurate and/or precise than the GPS? I wouldn't have expected that at all. <<
Although I'm not an expert...as if you don't already know(LOL)...the baro or altimeter is another tool that could be used with the GPS to fine tune the accuracy....or so I thought. Care to explain why it wouldn't?
Edited 12/22/2003 1:07:43 AM ET by bob
Oh goodness no, no offense at all. I just tend not to post if I don't have something to add, even if it's only a snotty question. I certainly wasn't ignoring you. If you were still waiting for me to answer a question, then I'm the one who should apologize.
Don't even THINK you need to apoligize to me. I may have asumed....I think we both know what that means....that a reply would be forthcoming based on my comments(in other threads) but I do not recall asking you a direct question. Therfore, I did not expect a reply. I did think that my comments could have been perceived as a hijack and possibly a reason for you to ignore or distant me. Believe me, this BT forum has really gotten my attention and I look forward to being around along time.
I did edit my last post with a direct...any comments ??
Edited 12/22/2003 1:34:55 AM ET by bob
Based on no hard data at all, I assumed (dangerous habit) that the resolution of the GPS would be an order of magnitude better than the altimeter. If that's true, I just didn't see what the altimeter would do for you. Like using a framing square to calibrate the 1/50" scale on a 6" machinist's rule. Even if the square is perfectly accurate, the difference in precision is too great. If that's not true, then carry on with the altimeter.
Have you been to the Trimble web site yet? They have a bunch of good tutorial information about GPS. IIRC, that's where I found out (or maybe it was in an old Scientific American) that you can come very close to getting absolute coordinates for a given location by taking more or less numerous readings over several days, and averaging the readings.
Real good point .........Even if the square is perfectly accurate, the difference in precision is too great.
Since I'm not trying to land the shuttle on a dime,(or am I? <G>)... now it does make sense to use the average of numerous readings. But why over several days?.....to account for satellite position changes? At least now I somewhat understand what I did wrong on my first 'test drive' with the GPS. I've done some research on how GPS works and can visualize its operating characteristics much better.
I will check the Trimble site to gain more insight on this....thanks.
Just for my own curiosity, I would like to use both the GPS and then the protractor or 2x4/level method and compare the results. By doing both, I think it will help me understand and utilize the GPS data more effectively.....the latter will remain constant, while the GPS will vary, right?
Think I'll pass on the altimeter model now...no need for it!!!
Edited 12/23/2003 3:22:49 AM ET by bob
>> But why over several days?
The readings drift fairly slowly. If you take too few readings, or over too short a time, all your readings could be to one side of the true position.
>> ...to account for satellite position changes?
The satellite position may have something to do with it, but the major cause of the drift is error intentionally added to the signals. GPS is a DOD project, and the signals the military receivers get is as accurate as they can make it. The civilian signal is intentionally degraded so that the US military is (supposed to be) the only organization in the world that can use GPS for high precision targeting.
I heard a rumor that during the Iraq invasion there weren't enough GI GPS receivers to go around. Many troops had brought their own civilian units, and the DOD had to turn off the intentional degradation of the civilian signal so the civilian units could get mil spec signals while the fighting was going on.
>> ... the [protractor] will remain constant, while the GPS will vary, right?
If you take repeated readings at exactly the same two places, the long/lat/alt numbers you get at each location will vary over time, but the differences between the long/lat/alt numbers for the two locations should always be very, very close, unless a lot of time elapses between the reading at the top of the hill and the reading at the bottom.
For instance, on one day you might get 95 long, 34 lat, 1000 alt at the bottom of the hill and 95.1 long, 33.9 lat, and 1200 alt at the top, so your differences from bottom to top would be 0.1 long, -0.1 lat, and 200 alt. Come back a week later and you might read 94.5 long, 34.5 lat, and 750 alt at the bottom, 94.6 long, 34.4 lat, and 950 alt at the top. Looks like very different readings, but the differences are still 0.1, -0.1, and 200.
Which means the slope you calculate with those numbers should also be very, very close every time.
"Now I see" said the blind man...it all makes sense, just forgot to insert 'common' before the word 'sense'...oh well
Also, if I understand all I've learned, I could plot and use the waypoints to return to the same points of measurements(readings). The key issue here is to average the several identical location readings and then use the difference between the average to arrive at a fairly close elevation rise or drop....Interesting comment about turning off the degradation in Iraq. If only I could get them to do the same for me....I'd already have my slope degree and probably every slope on my property, not that I need those!! LOL
Thanks teach'...I'll bring you an apple tomorrow...<G>
>> Also, if I understand all I've learned, I could plot and use the waypoints to return to
>> the same points of measurements(readings).
Not with any exactness. Returning to a previously logged waypoint is only guaranteed to get you to within 10 meters of the true location, which means it could be as much as 20 meters from where you were standing when you logged it.
>> The key issue here is to average the several identical location readings and then use the
>> difference between the average to arrive at a fairly close elevation rise or drop.
No. My fault. I should never have mentioned the averaging. I was trying to show off how much I know and only confused you. For calculating slope, you don't have to average anything. A single reading at the bottom of the hill and one at the top is all you need to calculate the difference. The example of taking the same two readings a week later was intended to demonstrate that you don't need absolute locations because what you're interested in is the difference and the difference never changes.
Now if the altitude reading drifts so fast that you can't get both readings quick enough to avoid a significant error, then yes, your procedure would yield better accuracy. And with a receiver in hand, you're in a better position than I am to answer that question. :)
>>Not with any exactness. Returning to a previously logged waypoint is only guaranteed to get you to within 10 meters of the true location, which means it could be as much as 20 meters from where you were standing when you logged it. <<
No big deal, a stake in the ground would be {exactness} enough for me<G> The 10 meters off is still worth knowing...thanks
>>No. My fault. I should never have mentioned the averaging. I was trying to show off how much I know and only confused you.<<
Don't fret...if you got it flaunt it..and you have the right to. You know alot more about GPS than I do (but I'm gaining fast) and besides I still think that averaging is useful if the readings drift considerably(like u said)...and they did! But now, equally important I've learned...is the horizon, signal strength, and # of signals play a major role in the 'somewhat' accurate readings.I am curious to see if the difference between the elevations changes if the actual readings still drift. You did not confuse me, just helped me understand when, where and how to use this new toy......So with that said, just make sure I pass your course even if I flunk the finals{{G}}
This weekend its supposed? to be beautiful:45-50* and bright sun. So with all this new knowledge I have, and a little luck, I'll have my slope angle from both the GPS and the protractor method.
thanks uncle...Hey, BTW, did you get the apple I left on your desk???
>> but I'm gaining fast
Well good. Now that you've got a receiver in hand, you can answer a couple of questions for me. What units does it report the coordinates in, and to what resolution? How fast do the readings drift?
>> Hey, BTW, did you get the apple I left on your desk?
A truly excellent Stayman. So sweet that dang fly is still buzzing around my beard.
UH OH...time for the finals already and the only studying I did was typing practice at BT.
and my final answer is : degrees min .000 sec
from what I recall the drift or new readings(my interpretation) occured every 2-3 sec but at that time I was mostly watching elev not coord.
edit: the signal strength was also changing considerably possibly due to my position versus the horizon. The slope is an east west direction with west being the hi point. The most drift occured at the low point...
Edited 12/24/2003 12:41:32 AM ET by bob
After giving more thought to your second question, I'll clarify a little.
While the 2-3 sec remains the same, does the drift refer to refresh rate which is what probably what I answered or is it the time taken to travel from point A to B?...meaning from top to bottom? If so, that time took about a min. but each time I traveled from A to B, it read different and would not remain constant. every 2-3 sec it would change. I thought 'waas' was supposed to minimize the fluctuation or 'drift'.
Well, now you know more about GPS than I do. I never heard of WAAS before. Here's a web site that says even with WAAS you only have a 95% chance of being within 3.2 meters horizontally and 6 meters vertically of the true position.
http://users.erols.com/dlwilson/gpswaas.htm
By speed of drift I meant how fast do the readings change when the receiver is stationary. It sounds like you're saying they change every time the display is updated, which would mean I was way over-optimistic about how much time you would have to get readings at both ends of the driveway without having to account for the drift.
There's a chance that the changes are just jitter in the last digit, and that the reading isn't really changing very much every two or three seconds, but I wouldn't bet my lunch money on it.
I still believe that if you take a reading at the top of the driveway and then drive to the bottom and take another reading within a few minutes, that the errors at the two ends are not going to be wildly different. That is, if the altitude reading at one end is 5 meters high, the reading at the other end is going to be something like 4.5 or 5.5 meters high, not 3 meters low. But I'm not nearly as confident of that as I was yesterday. :)
I had read both your link and 'Speeka' and found this interesting...
For some users in the US, the position of the satellites over the equator makes it difficult to receive the signals when trees or mountains obstruct the horizon. WAAS signal reception is ideal for open land and Marine applications.
Since I'm located at the peak of one of many in this rolling sloped, open terrain, with scattered tree clusters, could this be contributing to the flutter.? or just a Waas concern due to land based stations? Yet CT in general, is just that: rolling...etc. So maybe not.
>>Well, now you know more about GPS than I do. I never heard of WAAS before<<
hmmm...graduation with honors maybe?
I'll admit that when I first set out with this GPS, I may have been too hasty and critical of this gadget and expected instant answers. Instead I should have paid closer attention to what extent the flutter was actually affecting the reading. So tomorrow (hmm..Christmas), or this weekend, I'll have a whole new perspective of what the data really means.
So here's a couple more Stayman's for all you coaching :)
This was my first attempt(no prior experience with driveway installation) at correcting a major disaster that the builder left. I'm surprised that a c/o was even issued considering that the original drive was only8- 9' wide and then a free fall/roll down to the bottom of the valley.
(chuckle) This was my first driveway too, and like you, correcting the mess the "professional" left me. I've often wondered why there's no code here governing driveways. Would have saved me a lot of expense/grief. The county bureaucrats all claim to be overworked and underpaid anyway. But I was able to use my almost impassable driveway to drive my initial tax assessment down to bargain-basement levels, half of where the assessor started.
It's always good to see driveway solutions, both for slope and drainage. I eventually saw how to reroute my driveway to have half the slope I once had, eliminated 2 nasty turns, and end up with a shorter total distance. Go figure.... And it turned into a small side-line for me, driveway surveys. Now, if I could just get the machine operators to follow the stakes....
Youse guys and your GPS stuff..... I don't know. A straight 2x4 with a level and tape measure will give the slope %.
Those hay bales make a gutter for the hill runoff? Looked like the driveway went straight up the hill, so that wouldn't have been much of a problem anyway. What I thought I saw was a driveway that wouldn't shed water to the side(s). I've seen horrendous things here with water travelling down the road, carrying any available stone with it.
One guy wanted me, as a repair, to lay 100 tons on his drainage-challenged driveway without fixing the problems. When I suggested he needed to spend some money on machine time to fix the drainage, he acted like I was trying to cheat him. I told him to call the quarry and buy some stone, just get used to the idea as it'd be a commonplace event. Quarry trucks would have had an interesting time trying to spread. I didn't go back to see how it turned out. PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
jeez...wish I thought of hammer'n the tax assessor, but too late now and wouldn't be worth the hassle in this understaffed/over budgeted town.
your post raised a few more questions, if you have time.
>are you referring to a 'crown' in the center of the driveway as far as shedding water to the sides? The lower stretch does have a slight pitch to prevent ponding, but I thought that the 'crown' would only be required when I paved it...and the asphalt crew would handle that. The slopes on the hi side already have established growth, therefore no concern for any rocks or debris to wash onto the driveway is present(at least so far) The original driveway used to wash out some serious ruts and canyons(on the slope part) but now the drain tile controls it quite well. The only trade off is teaching people how to DRIVE up the hill without spitting stone all over the place.....and its a 'PITA' to plow with a front loader!!
>the hay bales DO make a great gutter for the runoff, but I wonder if I should have curbing installed(on the outside of the driveway) with the asphalt....one time I removed about 20 of the bales near the street so a delivery of the mulch chips could be dumped. Before I could replace them, we got hammer'd with a downpour and the >gutter< carried the water just as I expected but took a detour at the opening in the >gutter< and what it left was a rut almost the size of the canals they have in Phoenix AZ(I've lived there). If I get good solid growth of grass on the outside bank(10' wide) will I have problems without curbing, just blacktop? The slope in the front yard(LH side of driveway up pic) was a challenge to grade, seed and grow, but now that it is established, it does not appear to have or cause any problems. But...I've heard that the gravitational pull will cause downward migration and since there is no permanent structure now, I may not even notice it. Will it become a issue with the asphalt? In its current state, with the makeshift gutter,....nothing has moved even with major downpours. So with all the storms(and sleepless nights worrying) I feel confident that no curb is needed. However it would be nice to get a little reassurance from someone who appears to have real experience with this type of situation.
>>Youse guys and your GPS stuff..... I don't know. A straight 2x4 with a level and tape measure will give the slope %.<<
I just like to double check my tape measure readings with a micrometer!! ROTFLOL!
jeez...wish I thought of hammer'n the tax assessor, but too late now and wouldn't be worth the hassle in this understaffed/over budgeted town.
As I built a non-standard house (underground), I had another reason. Actually was extremely curious how it would come out. With no comps whatsoever, they tried to run sq ft costs by me, which they're not supposed to do. I was ready for that with a little help from a RE broker friend. We settled at a fair market assessment of $20/sq ft, which has now, 9 yrs later, risen to almost $40/sq ft. The starting point is everything. <VBSEG> Driveway, now rerouted, had a lot to do with it, but they haven't reassessed for the driveway improvements even though they drive up it every 2 yrs and certainly noticed the difference. Professionalism, what?
Getting water off the road as quickly as possible is job 1. Crowning is normal, but a simple slope to one side sometimes works better, depends on what the drainage is, just never want water to run down the road. Front end loaders don't plow very well, unless you add a blade. I've certainly done a lot of snow removal with a loader. PITA? Yep. As you know, gravel driveways present their own challenges anyhow if you want to leave the gravel. I wouldn't have bought this mountain if the driveway was on the N. side. Love that solar snow removal. If your drain tile solved the canyons/ruts problem, you did fine. I don't imagine ever paving our driveway, but I'd ask your asphalt guys what they expect.
and what it left was a rut almost the size of the canals they have in Phoenix AZ
Uh, oh, another desert rat. That's why I had so much to learn, grew up halfway to Tucson. What's snow? I don't do grass. You presumably know that water will do more work with increases in velocity and volume. If you aren't experiencing any problems, you must have done it right. Usually what I see are the problems and then try to figure out what caused it and how to avoid that.
ROTFLOL!
OK, now get up off the floor, grab that 2x4 and go measure your driveway. I'll bet it's more than 15% if your visitors have problems throwing stone.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Underground, really? Tell me more-2 story/half buried? split level/half buried? ?/all buried? Sounds interesting. You must have an ideal comfortable climate in that type of construction.
>>Uh, oh, another desert rat.<<
Not really...just a 6 month stint. Military Brat in my younger days, so I've traveled the world somewhat...Europe Spain and Africa and the good ol' USA. I missed the shake and bake of CALIF and could only convince the DW to go as far as AZ. Close enough for me, but as it turned out...too far for her! After months of her $300 phone bills back east, I found it to be cheaper to move back to CT(she was born/raised here)...and fly back when I had the urge to visit. Still miss the west coast but too many people live there now(like sardines) and I like the breathing room I have now....and 'cleaner' breathing besides.
>>You presumably know that water will do more work with increases in velocity and volume.<<
Boy do I ever!!!, but its under control now.
>>I wouldn't have bought this mountain if the driveway was on the N. side. Love that solar snow removal.<<
Lucky you, but 'smart' is a better word. I can supply the course if you have one of those speed sleds. North facing doesn't melt 3" of solid ice too quick, like what you get after a heavy snow, then a good dose of rain, and then brrr' cold temps. Now that's what I call a MAJOR FEAR FACTOR, almost deadly!!!!
>>OK, now get up off the floor, grab that 2x4 and go measure your driveway.<<
I'm ready to go, now if only I could remember where I left my micrometer...FOMBLOL!!
Underground, really? Tell me more-2 story/half buried? split level/half buried? ?/all buried? Sounds interesting. You must have an ideal comfortable climate in that type of construction.
Rather than bore the pants off everyone again, take a peek here:
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=34864.33
Last year the temperature went from a winter low of 65* to a high of 75* last summer, without heating or cooling, and all but no exterior maintenance. We find 65* chilly so we burn a little wood to warm up our 20k cu ft. Replacement house is started. We like this one so much there are few changes, other than size.
Still miss the west coast but too many people live there now(like sardines) and I like the breathing room I have now....and 'cleaner' breathing besides.
This is often lost on westerners. My wife recently spent a week in Denver with family and friends, couldn't wait to get out of the bustle and filthy air. We left Colorado primarily due to the presence of small cities here. Lots of them, decreasing demand for country property, making it much more affordable.
North facing doesn't melt 3" of solid ice too quick, like what you get after a heavy snow, then a good dose of rain, and then brrr' cold temps. Now that's what I call a MAJOR FEAR FACTOR, almost deadly!!!!
Better you than me, but our driveway rises (drops?) 400'. Before rerouting, with 30% slopes, it was pretty exciting on occasion.
FOMBLOL!!
FOMB?PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
>> FOMB?
Falling on my butt?
I have to make this quick....at work now
fomb....you were close......flat on my back!!
I'll chat later
>>Rather than bore the pants off everyone again, take a peek here<<
Boring?....not a chance. I read the whole thread and I'm impressed! The only type of underground I ever saw was a 2 story concrete bunker, cut into a hill with a stone facade. No hvac...65-75*...equally impressive. Copper siding?...now that's something I'd really like to see!! A little confused...I see the ventilator shaft, yet the copper building in the back has me wondering how much is above and below grade?? Thanks to >LUKA< I was able to fool around with viewing your pic using Irfanview. Pretty neat stuff.... You mentioned you were building again? Same mountain? If I ever pass your way...VA, I gather...I would love to look you up and see this.
>>Better you than me, but our driveway rises (drops?) 400'. Before rerouting, with 30% slopes, it was pretty exciting on occasion.<<
With all the ups and downs (no pun intended--ha ha) I wouldn't give this place up for anything and likewise for you, eh? Then again, everything has a price....if someone's willing to pay!!
As far as FOMBLOL...I guess were even. Remember KISS, only found 2 people out of about a dozen who knew. Then again, I just made mine up, so I guess your still one up :)
BTW At least now I don't have to ask what....../Builder-Bury it means. Nice touch
to All-- It is about time for a fresher course on how to get the degree symbol º. With NumLock [whatever that is] on, press and holt the Alt key and type 167 on the number pad. Remember: Alt + 167
Also the ¢ sign is Alt + 0162
Bob--
What is your latitude and longtitude? Please post. Then go to the terraserver site and punch those numbers in. There are a couple of options: an airial photogragh of your house or a USGS topo map. The topo map should enable you to estimate elevations, usually to 20' or less by interpolation.
I have a Locke level and a Keson measuring wheel. My eyelevel height is 5.5'. I would start out at the lower end of the driveway and sight with the level a spot on the driveway [ie. 5.5' + elevation] and then wheel to that spot [a stone perhaps, whatever]. Record the information. Repeat the process to the top of the driveway. If the last step is over the crest, then sight on a stick or bush and use a tape measure to measure the extra. Post your results. There may be some corrections for a cosine effect at steep slopes.
~Peter
>> It is about time for a fresher course on how to get the degree symbol º.
Doesn't work for me. How do I do it on a Sun Ultra 5 running Solaris?
Also, there's another degree symbol without the underline. Some people might like to know the code for that one.
° = Alt + 248
º = Alt + 167
Yes, they are a little different. See Ted's website http://www.tedmontgomery.com/index.html
I think Luka has another combination.
~Peter
Download this file to your desktop.
Change the extension of the file, taking the "1" off of the end. You'll end up with an .exe file. (I don't think prospero will allow an .exe file to be uploaded. Too easy to infect an executable file. This one was not infected with anything when I uploaded it. Guaranteed.)
If you leave this file on your desktop, you can double click on it at any time, and the character map will open for you.
In the character map, you can look up whatever symbol you want to show, and it will give you the right "ALT+(numbers)" combo to get that symbol.
Alternatively,you can simply select that character, copy it, then paste it into the post you are creating.
Live, Love, Forgive and Forget
quittintime
What is your latitude and longtitude? Please post. Then go to the terraserver site and punch those numbers in. There are a couple of options: an airial photogragh of your house or a USGS topo map. The topo map should enable you to estimate elevations, usually to 20' or less by interpolation.
I'll have the lat/long * this weekend and will post. I just tried the: numlock--alt--167 and....nothing, but could Presario 1700 laptop {no # pad} be the cause? I'll try on the desktop sometime. I'll load the charmap.exe from Luka to see if that does. (thanks LUKA...your assist has been great)
The aerial photograph sounds like a must see...Thanks for the useful info
How//where do I lose the 1 after exe....I started to download but aborted since I didn't get a opportunity to drop it.
BTW just checked out terraserver and anxious to try it. I went outside to get lat & long but it did not "acquire satellites"...clouds or darkness related? Maybe I didn't wait enough time....5 mins and still acquiring. Tomorrow in daylite or SAT definitely.
How//where do I lose the 1 after exe....I started to download but aborted since I didn't get a opportunity to drop it.
First download, then rightclick on the desktop icon to rename. Then your computer will know what program to use to upen the file. My problem is not knowing what to do with it once the file is opened. Glad to hear there's somebody else here who has little idea how to drive these things.
Now to test Peter's... °. Wow, it sort of worked, if square. Outside of Prospero I don't have to NumLock to get a real (round) degree sign, but it didn't work in Prospero, hence my *s. Thanks Peter.
I went outside to get lat & long but it did not "acquire satellites"...clouds or darkness related? Maybe I didn't wait enough time....5 mins and still acquiring. Tomorrow in daylite or SAT definitely.
Yep, I can see this is technology we all need. [Said the Luddite] <VBG>PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
...Yep, I can see this is technology we all need. [Said the Luddite] <VBG>...
I agree on both counts--First, I tossed the GPS, my neighbor confirmed that something was screwy with this unit, possibly just a PLAY TOY since the title screen read (real small print) :For Entertainment Use Only
... Glad to hear there's somebody else here who has little idea how to drive these things..
Second, Even though I am still 'driving' with a learner's permit, I was born a survivor and as a result, I can get by.!!(VBG) Though it does help to have a daughter who has her masters! :>)....BTW... do you know what program is required to run charmap? My daughter took care of the download, but she said it requires a specific program to run, maybe?? Maybe PM22 knows..
...Yep, I can see this is technology we all need. [Said the Luddite] <VBG>...
I agree on both counts--First, I tossed the GPS, my neighbor confirmed that something was screwy with this unit, possibly just a PLAY TOY since the title screen read (real small print) :For Entertainment Use Only
LMAO! Now will you get out that 2x4?PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
I don't know much about charmap whatever that is. Ask Luka.
º = Alt + 167
° = Alt + 248
See Ted's wierd website at
http://www.tedmontgomery.com/index.html
click on the part "special characters".
But I think charmap might be a program in itself. There is something like that in Word. I think you use Insert => Symbol and you get a keyboard-like screen and you hit the symbol you want and then OK. Also it gives you another Alt number with a zero in front of it. That's all I know. Hope this helps.
~Peter
Sorry about the mixup...I just checked and see that luka posted the charmap.exe, yours was terraserver which BTW would have been useful if I could have had a reliable GPS....but that's another story <G>
Thanks for Teds...special characters
Copper siding?...now that's something I'd really like to see!! A little confused...I see the ventilator shaft, yet the copper building in the back has me wondering how much is above and below grade?? <snip> You mentioned you were building again? Same mountain? If I ever pass your way...VA, I gather...I would love to look you up and see this.
Ventilator shaft? Um, no. What you got was the back side of my muffler garden in front of the house, including some ventilators that were removed off a friend's roof and now live here as mobiles. We love 'em and you're not the first to think they have something to do with our air system. The copper-sided structure in the picture is sitting on grade, nothing but concrete underneath. The tops of those walls are retaining 2' of dirt. Doesn't look like underground, but it is, and, more importantly, works like it.
Next place is out of the ground, same mountain, same septic system even. I plan long term (large septic). This was intended to be a furniture shop, my official vocation (see attachment for a recent arrival). Then a rental agent friend explained to me the facts of life. I've been bought out. And another shop to build, probably an extension of one of my outbuildings, the lumber drying/storage one, which is post&beam 2 story sitting on concrete 2 story (drive in on 2 levels). We don't do well with mortgages, so our schedules/plans differ from most.
http://www.topozone.com/map.asp?z=17&n=4206494&e=702713&layer=DRG25 is where we live, (red) x marks the spot. Come on down. Driveway sensor'll tell me when you're here. Or maybe better, let me know so I won't have the rifle out. And if you lose your muffler on the way up, just add it to the garden.
I wouldn't give this place up for anything and likewise for you, eh? Then again, everything has a price....if someone's willing to pay!!
Yeah, sorta. I think everybody should have an exit plan, for if/when things get a little too unbearable. For instance, our local U. is building a research park which will double the population of the county. Doesn't strike me as increasing my quality of life. Actually had an opportunity, while doing a driveway evaluation, to take the issue up with one of the U. Board of Visitors, the governing body (you buy your seat from the governor), not that it did any good. Sure made him pause though.
BTW At least now I don't have to ask what....../Builder-Bury it means. Nice touch
Thanks. But you missed the frequent follow-up: "right, I have a cat that buries things too".PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
...Ventilator shaft? Um, no. What you got was the back side of my muffler garden in front of the house, including some ventilators that were removed off a friend's roof and now live here as mobiles....
After I posted that statement I thought it might be just deco art, but...oh well :-)
...The tops of those walls are retaining 2' of dirt. Doesn't look like underground, but it is, and, more importantly, works like it...
I get the picture now, but this type of structure is new to me. What is the objective in regards to the 2' of dirt for the roof--for climate stability?
...Come on down. Driveway sensor'll tell me when you're here. Or maybe better, let me know so I won't have the rifle out. And if you lose your muffler on the way up, just add it to the garden...
Sounds like I should, literally...Like maybe I should land on the roof??LOL BTW...Do those driveway sensor's really work? I could use one if they do.
RE: the pic....Real nice work!! Do you still do the furniture gig?
What is the objective in regards to the 2' of dirt for the roof--for climate stability?
Right. Last year our house, unaided, went from a winter low of 65° to a summer high of 75°. 65° is too chilly for us so we normally burn a cord of wood in a non-EPA stove for our 20,000 cu ft in a 4166 degree-day climate. Depending on where you are, you're closer to 6000 degree-days. If you'd like to read an excerpt from the book I followed (without using the proposed architecture) go here:
http://www.axwoodfarm.com/PAHS/UmbrellaHouse.html
Like maybe I should land on the roof??LOL BTW...Do those driveway sensor's really work? I could use one if they do.
Well, if you're gonna land, the roof's the only open spot. We don't do lawn. That's why the raised veggie beds are up there. "Honey, will you go up on the roof and get a tomato?"
The wireless infrared driveway sensors will give you non-stop false alarms. Just what you wanted at 3 am? I used one that senses changes in the earth's magnetic field with steel moving by the sensor. At least that's how I think it works. Had to adjust the sensitivity so it didn't pick up my steeltoed boots. Anyhow, zero false alarms for the last 5 years, including electric storms. Surprised me. Requires dedicated grounding for the processor.
RE: the pic....Real nice work!! Do you still do the furniture gig?
Thank you. That was almost entirely off the lathe, then reconfigured. I'm very selective about accepting commissions. Something really interesting, sure. Normally I turn away more than I accept. It's a real luxury. Not that I don't need earned income, just have other sources.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Tom
Thanks for the link. I only skimmed through it for now, but later tonight I'll spend the time to read all the details. Still need to understand the concept with the exposed (above grade) walls though...2' of concrete, I understand. But I'll bet the copper siding is equally important. But on another note...Now you've done it <G>....can you pass me a link or brand name to google for the infra' drive' sensor?? Someday I plan to 'gate' my driveway with all the phone activated controls, but this sensor deal you have would be nice to have until then. I've seen ads/info for what I think is junk, but if yours is not prone to false alarms (5 yrs-no false signals) I would like to buy it. I just hope that it is not--For Entertainment Use Only--<VBG>!!!
LMAO! Now will you get out that 2x4?
kinda like FOMBLOL maybe? Oh well, what can I say, you might as well laugh your azzz off...after all the crap with the GPS and a little 'egg on my face' besides<G> NOW I will. I did try a quick check with a speed square...came up with about 20*(still can't make the degree symbol- he he) but I am going to retry with the 16' 2x4 so stay tuned.
But I'll bet the copper siding is equally important. But on another note...Now you've done it <G>....can you pass me a link or brand name to google for the infra' drive' sensor?? Someday I plan to 'gate' my driveway with all the phone activated controls, but this sensor deal you have would be nice to have until then.
Actually, the copper is simply siding (keeps the sun off the xps). The cheapest I could find at $1.40/ft and goes up fast. Original plan was for stucco but my guy left the area and prices for normal installations weren't anything I wanted to buy. Vinyl wasn't considered.
Cartell Driveway Sensor from Preferred Technologies Group in Lancaster, Pa. 800-223-4743. It's not infrared. Requires a shallow trench down the side of the driveway. Sensor normally placed in the center of the driveway. Splices are not recommended so you order the sensor with enough wire to go the distance. Processor has both a 12v. output and dry contact so you can have it turn on pretty much whatever. At their recommendation (good tech support) we use X-10 hardware to get the signal the extra 700' to our house where it turns on a radio. IIRC, the sensor and processor were around $150 together from the company where I normally buy alarm equipment. Far as I can tell there is no better sensor. Zero false alarms. As we have 1/2 mile long driveway and live in a house that doesn't transmit outside noise, my wife loves not being surprised by people suddenly arriving. Definitely not --For Entertainment Use Only--.
I am going to retry with the 16' 2x4 so stay tuned.
Geez, been waiting how long for that? <VBG>
PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Thanks for Cartell lead, I checked the .com and looks to be a fairly simple design and install? Do you agree? I see they don't do retail sales, (I called) but I have a BIL who is lic. elec. and could purchase from them and assist install. But if I understand you, I might be able to purchase from the local alarm co?? What interests me is the compatibility with gates and CCTV but I'll need to spec my future plans to insure the correct hardware is bought.
>>Still alittle puzzled...with all the glass in your walls, don't you lose some of the gain with the design objective? Or is it minimal? Also, I would have thought the copper siding was more of a factor other than just siding and water shield.
I am going to retry with the 16' 2x4 so stay tuned.
Geez, been waiting how long for that? <VBG>
hmm, its only been about a month, so I'm 30 days late.<GG> At least I narrowed it down alittle...my original guesstimate was 45-50, remember? So if 20* is correct, I was close, sort of :-) he he he Too bad that GPS was lame, at least now I know how to use one.
Hope its ok to hijack your own thread? Steep driveways to underground dwellings to GPS to drive' sensors to...oh well, live and learn. I'm sure not going to lose any sleep over it. ;>)
Thanks for Cartell lead, I checked the .com and looks to be a fairly simple design and install? Do you agree? I see they don't do retail sales, (I called) but I have a BIL who is lic. elec. and could purchase from them and assist install. But if I understand you, I might be able to purchase from the local alarm co?? What interests me is the compatibility with gates and CCTV but I'll need to spec my future plans to insure the correct hardware is bought.
You're welcome. Great hardware and seems to be a very good company. Installation is very simple. If you're unfamiliar with alarms, you're going to have to figure out what to do with the processor output, either 12vdc or closed contact. Also a decision where to place the processor so that it can get a dedicated ground. Other than that, it just plugs into an outlet. Measure the distance to your sensor placement so you buy the correct wire length. If your local alarm co uses them they may be willing to sell you one. I go to where the alarm cos buy their hardware. They think I'm an alarm co (used to be). Let me know if you need for me to get it for you.
You could use the output to open or close a gate. That's my uncompleted plan, close the gate behind the vehicle. If you have an open trench, by all means bury everything you'll ever want down there. No reason not to have the sensor totally independent of your other systems either. Dream on about what you'd like to do, then figure out the hardware. That's the fun part of the business.
>>Still alittle puzzled...with all the glass in your walls, don't you lose some of the gain with the design objective? Or is it minimal? Also, I would have thought the copper siding was more of a factor other than just siding and water shield.
Our windows (that we never cover) and exposed walls are a large detriment to performance. The author wouldn't consider our place a success. I mean, we get a 10° annual temp swing, to his 7°, 43% worse! <g> Oh, well. Maybe the next place will be a little better. It'll have more dirt overhead, but my wife dictates lots of glass. To the point of glass in the large doors too. However, the cat finds it dandy to have his-height windows. We also see him when he wants in. Doesn't think much of snow, like today. Fortunately, for us, he also thinks litter boxes uncivilized. Under the copper is 2½" of xps, then the concrete. I wasn't being facetious saying the copper was just cheap siding. This construction is very uncomplicated. The primary heating/cooling system has no moving parts and requires no fuel. Won't wear out.
Hope its ok to hijack your own thread?
Seems like most threads cover considerable territory. It also looks like we've bored everybody else to sleep.
Maybe you need the attachment. Apologies if I posted it previously.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!