The better half has made it clear that I need to clean up/fix up the deck before the snow flies. This is a redwood deck about 25 years old.
One problem is the railing. It’s constructed of horizontal 2x6s with vertical 1x2s. The 1×2 ends fit in mortises in the bottom 2×6 and in a 1×4 at the top. For the most part this worked pretty well, but needless to say, over the years wood has shrunk and twisted to where some verticals are popping out of their mortises. A particular problem is the stair railings, since the ends of the verticals are cut at an angle and then needed to be shaped a bit to fit into the mortises. (In retrospect, I probably should have searched out a longer router bit, as the one I had, after the template was in place, only allowed for about a 1/2″ deep mortise.)
Anyway, I’m probably looking for some fastener scheme that will secure the ends without being too obstrusive. And whatever it is needs to take into account that the wood is by now fairly brittle, plus it still moves a lot. (A complete rebuild ain’t gonna happen.)
Replies
What about
putting fillets in the groove at the bottom... same width as the groove, thickness = depth of groove plus maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch, cut the pieces to fit between the spindles, nail them in. That would stop the spindles from moving.
There is no groove -- individual mortises.
Split a 1x3 down the middle to create two halves. Mark the locations of verticals on one of said halves. Temporarily clamp the two halves back together to mark the other half. Unclamp. Cut "through mortices" into the 1x3 halves. Nail onto the existing rail system to capture the verticals. Smile at your wife, receive accolades, have a beer.
Yeah, that might work on the horizontal sections, at least. I'd have to think about how it would work on the stairs.
Oh c'mon, quit making excuses...
It would work the same. Just a little (maybe a lot) more difficult to cut the mortices (actually half-mortices). A jigsaw set to the proper angle will get you a close enough cut for this project. The only really difficult part will be giving the new wood an aged look to match the existing.
Railing
Leave the vertical posts as they are. Snug them down to the 2x6 as much as you can, leaving the gap at the 2x4 top. Run a 3/4" x 3/4" piece of redwood the entire length of the 2x4 on each side of the vertical pieces. This will make a larger dato. Drive a finish nail on the back side of the railing through the 3/4" piece securing the verticals. If you don't want to use nails and let the verticals "float" you can always add pieces of the 3/4 in between each vertical piece on the 2x4.
This process can also be accomplished on your stairs without modifying any vertical piece. The redwood will change color over time to match the existing deck. Good luck, Jim
Of course, the hard part is finding redwood. They just laugh when I ask about it locally.
redwood deck rail
Man,
25 years, you got your moneys worth.
I like the Idea of splitting 1 by threes. no matter you're gonna have to add or do
lots of work at this point. I was just in Montana working on an old deck and the locals
showed me what a %50 solution of soapy water and bleach can do to old redwood.
Sounds crazy, try it. Put it on heavy and leave it to dry.
Yeah, we've been cleaning the deck -- using stuff called "DeckBrite". It's bit stronger than bleach, but doesn't eat up the wood like oxalic acid.
I've been thinking along the lines of the suggestions here to remove the 1x4 on top (just under the railing) and replace with thicker pieces, ripped like you describe. Will take some milling, though -- might have to have a millwork place rip them for me rather than do it myself.
What David said, if you want to keep it simple. You don't need a groove for fillets, you can use left over or aquired spindles, same as what you have. Cut pieces to fit between the existing spindles, that are the same width as the spindles. Screw them to the top and bottom rail with stainless trim heads. Start at one end place the first fillets, screw into those through the spindle, the next fillets cover the screws, continue. I have a picture with square spindles, fillets on the top rail only. There was a groove in this rail but that doesn't matter. Red cedar deck spindles and rails are usually readily available.
Well, I guess I'm just old-school.......... 4d hot gal. finish (or 6d ) install toenail style up through baluster into
under-side of rail / mortise, pre-drill w/ 1/16" bit ( or 3/32" for 6d ) through the baluster , one from each side of baluster.
try it, you might be surprised, no water seeping in because it's angled upward, of course your going to re-finish everything anyway..... right? :) .........don't forget to set the nail heads below the surface.......you remember nail sets dont ya?
good luck
Geoff