I’m RFQing a framing package two ways. One way is all sticks, the alternate being sticks plus all possible walls panelized.
Here is one part I am wondering about. The framing shown is fairly accurate, but certainly can be changed to accommodate things. No fireblocking is shown.
View Imagea If you are a panelizer, or have dealt with them, how would this be addressed? It is too tall to ship in one piece, so where and how would you see it broken?
Replies
I'm far from a panel guru, but I have done a few in the past... we did have a gable end like the one you are looking at doing once for a great room of a panelized house. I attached a picture of how it came delivered to us.
the top plate was actually 3 plates...one that was nailed into the studs of course, and then 2 additional top plates that were added after the top triangle was lifted in place (we did it on the ground and lifted the complete end at once).
btw...sure wish I could figger out Sketch up as you seem to have. Not patient enough to learn I guess. That, and I have no prior CAD experience.
good luck
it's ok to think you're as old as you once were...just so long as you don't try to prove it...
http://www.cobrajem.com
I thought about a horizontal joint as you show. It is the first thing that comes to mind.
I suppose it may work just fine, but my objection to it is the "fold line" it puts in the wall.
Gene, we get gables like that shipped all the time. They are two piece. We call the top piece a "piggy", as in piggy back.
Without doing any math, I'm going to guess that the top of your piggy will be less than 8'. Each end of that piggy will be solidly nailed to your roof sheathing. I highly doubt that your gable will "fold".
If you feel that your gable will have flex at that 8' chord , beef up the cord with a stiff back like you did with the 6x4 angle.
blue
Why wouldn't it be two pieces 15' wide x 15'-3-11/16" tall? One half might be a little wider and include the post.
I'm thinking that wouldn't fit on a truck... , or more specificlly, under a bridge.
You let some air out of the tires so the truck can squeak under the bridge.
From one of those joke E-mails that get passed around:
A truck driver is driving along on the freeway. A sign comes up that reads, "Low Bridge Ahead." <!----><!----><!---->
Before he knows it, the bridge is right in front and his truck gets stuck under it. <!----><!---->
Cars are backed up for miles. Finally, a police car comes up.<!----><!---->
The cop gets out of his car and walks to the truck, puts his hands on his hips and says, <!----><!---->
"Got stuck, huh?" <!----><!---->
The truck driver says, "No, I was delivering this bridge and ran out of gas."<!----><!---->
Gene, I work for a panelizer in IL. Your are right it would be to "tall" i.e. "wide to ship without an escort, which is very expensive. Max is 14' here in IL. As somebody mention earlier, we would "piggy" the top of the panels. Or we would split into 8' or 10' wide sections and load them length ways on the truck. (A more likely solution)
Keith
Thanks for the information. I was hoping to find someone on the inside, such as you.
I had thought the wall might be best done as two side triangles and a center peaked section, three sections each about 10 feet wide.
In your operation, where and how are the "sheathing laps" done?
Gene,
In the early 80s, I worked for a firm in MA that built quality manufactured houses. They had a panelized system. Most of the panels were 4' wide (nominal, actually, 3'-11"-15/16"), this came from a standard sheet of plywood, w the 1/16 missing from the 2x stock to allow for real world tolerances. We also made a number of 2' panels (nominal), and some 8' panels to accomodate wide windows and wide entry systems. We would also make a few odd size panels to fill in here and there.
Typically, lets say a first floor panel, would have a plywood "downlap" that would bring the sheathing down past the floor system and sills, and the plywood would be missing at the top of the panel to allow for plywood, or panels etc installed above to lap on to it. Hope I'm making some sense,,,, it wasn't complicated.
So that wall of yours, we would have built, starting in the middle, two full height panels, 4' wide, one left and one right so to say, and just carry on from there, working out to the ends w 4' wide full height panels, w finally a couple of one offs to finish at the correct overall width.
Don't know if this helps you. It is just the way one firm does it, and I'm not sure I correctly understood your transport challenges.
H
Gene, I would say that's how it would be done. 3 sections, 10' wide, each sheeted to face of framing. We just did a library that had 20' balloon framed walls and that is how they were built and shipped. As far as sheating goes, we lap all corners. If I can help with any more questions, Gene let me know. I can run it past one of our draftsman. Keith
Take a look at this, and tell me if we are on the same page.
View Image
Three panels are edge joined at the two joints shown. Two additional top plates are nailed on in field, after assembly, to tie everything together at the top. Everything should be OK for shipping, size-wise.
The 2x6 wallframe is shown with studs at 24" centers, but 16" can be done. It'll just result in different panel sizes.
Gene, That's how we would divide and build and ship. With top plating done in field. Nice drawing !! Keith
Couldn't you cut it in half right between the windows? The remaining triangles would be ~10'11-3/16".
Jon Blakemore
RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Split verticly, leave the post out, with flanges on both sides to nail to the king post. Bolt thru the king studs & post to assemble.
Gives two triangles at 15'x15'x10'
If that's still too big split again at the window headers and use full length (king post to roof) beams for headers and two add on top plates. Use good connectors at the header to post join.
SamT
Now if I could just remember that I am a businessman with a hammer and not a craftsman with a business....."anonymous". . .segundo