Does anyone have any pictures of how to make a nice acces panel for access to the motor on a whirlpool tub?
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Prescriptive codes don't address the connection at less common angles, so base the connection off more typical ones using bolts, structural screws, blocking, and steel tension ties.
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No picture, but the cleverest one I've seen was a removable unit of cubbies that could store rolled-up towels or bottles of wine.
Sorry, no pix.
Nice solution which I saw was in a bath done in 12x12 tile.
There was a "door" in the front of the tub surround which was 3 tiles stuck on a piece of plywood, grouted between tiles.
Tiles and plywood were held in place by magnetic catches - no hinges.
If you knew where it was, you could pop it right out and have a 11" x 35" hole to work through.
Jim
There was a "door" in the front of the tub surround which was 3 tiles stuck on a piece of plywood, grouted between tiles.
Tiles and plywood were held in place by magnetic catches - no hinges.
I did one just like that in a big house I trimmed in West Nyack, NY. The little door was near the toilet so I added a TP holder, to hide it all a little better and to provide some leverage to remove the door, when needed.
Got any pix for the OP?
Me niether.......
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
This is what I did, but just to get to the drain works from the side. I haven't finished off the motor access panel yet.Magnets on the WEDI board on plywood, then caulked around the edges to keep it water tight.Tu stultus es
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.
Edited 11/4/2009 6:44 pm by xxPaulCPxx
I also did one like that but because of the tile and grout color I left extra tile inside the access area and a ziplock bag of grout.
Bing
I love it when somebody "looks out for the guy who is going to follow".
I try to.
Jim Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Thanks
Bing
I've made a couple where the dummy panel sat in a groove in the baseboard, and its top fit just up under the lip of the tub.
To remove, press your hands against it, slide it up, and get your fingernails under the now free bottom edge and swing it out
Works fine; simple.
Forrest
No pics either, but I did see Silva on TOH use commerical grade Velcro to hold the access panel in place. It does have tenacious holding power.
The access area is actuall in a closet, so looks arent as tough as if it was nextt o the tub, but what do most poeple use? hi grade plywood? but how attack to the wall?
Yes, quality plywood as the backer, finish material being used and then attach with fastner of choice. Magnetic, velcro, touch latch, screws with finish washers, clasp, etc.
Here's what I did. I ordered face frames and cabinet doors that match the master bathroom cabinetry and applied that to the frame that supports the tub.
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what I'm trying to do
I am trying to order a panel surround for my whirlpool similar to this.
Just wondering where you ordered from. I am not sure if I can get one long piece already with doors on there or have to get some sort of fram and then attach the doors.
I had to push bob the tile guy to get some insight into getting nice access panels for a tub, and he came up with his best method.
Basically, ply surround, tile layout drawn out, ply careully cut out for surround, and then held in place with wood-screws in the saw kerf. screwheads taped over, and the wall then tiled and grouted normally. Locations of panels skeched inside cabinetry.
Need to get access, cut out grout, remove panel
This one had two panels...one at the right hand end, the other for the taps.
There was a third access panel in a closet, directly below the drain.
Glass shower not installed in this pic, but it's to the left of the taps.
Worst case? lift tub.
Eric
I dont have a picture but after discussing with the tile guy we decided to leave a hole and cover it with an extra door that matches the vanity. We used magnets and plywood that fit in the opening while the door covers all four edges.
So it stands out but it looks like it belongs. If I can get a picture I'll post.
KaiserRoo
The local building inspector won't accept a "grouted' over access Hatch. During a final he will request to see the pump. There goes the grout job!
These pix are still at the unpainted stage - just big fill valves, here. I hate slow filling tube - I had to warn the homeowner that these 3/4" valves will fill the tub faster than the drain will empty it!.
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Forrest
Edited 11/7/2009 8:10 am ET by McDesign
big pipes, we used 1/2 pex I think
Another variation for a wood framed front. Any or all of the three panels can be removed. Plus the entire face frame can be removed. All tool-less. Simply lift the panel, swing out the bottom, then drop and remove. Same for the face frame.
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For tile. they are usually held in with magnetic catches and the perimeter caulked instead of grouted. I'm not a fan of that, only out of concerns of the recaulk matching the old grout, etc.
I prefer to build in a small removable cubby, a storage niche that can hold rolled up towels, etc.
Lastly, most tubs also need access panels for air flow. In the last photo you can see a mesh grate to the left of the tub front. With the front panels on it's dark back there so you can't see anything behind the grate. Also, to the right of the tub, there is a closet and the toe kick of that closet also has a pathway for air to get to the tub motor. There are a couple of insulated baffles built in under the the tub to muffle motor noise coming back out through the grate.
Here's what I did (not a whirlpool, so just for getting a little access to the plumbing). Built a small cabinet out of birch ply w/ a cherry face frame and stained to match the vanity. It just slides into a framed opening in the skirt.
It has a shelf in the middle and would be a great place to store your action figures. Hasn't gotten a lot of use otherwise.