We are on a kitchen job preparing for our first tin ceiling & also some backsplash. I’ve never seen a house with tin ceiling backsplash; however it does look nice in the pictures @ American Tin Ceiling. As good as it looks I’m wondering why I’ve never seen it used – anybody know a problem with it?
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fonzie, I did this one for a customer. She loves copper. I pl premium'd them to the concrete poured walls. Cut all the pcs and fit, then taped them to hold them in place. The tin overlaps two edges, orient it properly b/4 proceeding. I started at the left and then glued right to left. Check closely, sometimes the old stamps reproduce a crease repetively in the finish. You might be able to cut it off to fit the size splash.
I cut the outlet holes by 2'' hole sawing twice for a single gang, nipping out the waste with snips. Tape the sides of the switches and outlets, good conductor that backsplash.
For the corner, the pour had a rounded corner. I bent two 22.5's to go around the corner instead of cutting. I would do the same with a 90 deg. corner.
There's several splashes shown at the MBoss co's website.
I've got more if you want it, off to work.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
calvin,This message may get duplicated - I got disconnected. I was saying as sharp as those pics look it makes me wonder even more why it's not used more - at least I haven't seen it in houses around here.Does the copper have a laquer coat? Will it oxidate to "blues" and "greens" inside?
Fonz, The panels come in solid and this plated and coated variety. They go one way only once you start. There are to adjacent edges that get overlayed by the next panel. These were 2x2, I think I've worked on ceilings where they were 2x4. There's a cornice moulding for ceilings also. Some have inside/outside corners made up already for the cornice.
With the coating, it will stay consistent bright copper.
View Image
Here's mboss's site http://www.mbossinc.com/?referrer=Google1502&wcw=google
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Edited 12/20/2005 3:59 pm ET by calvin
Fonzie-
I haven't done a tin cieling in 20 years, but I can tell you that stuff is sharp. Either wear gloves or keep the bandaids handy.
Why isn't it more common? It's a little expensive, ostentatious, hard to install the big patterns (12x12) so they look good, harder to change than paint and it's unusual. I thought about it when I redid our kitchen a few years ago and I happen to like tin cielings. For the above reasons I decided against it.
Have fun.
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
DonK,The panels they are talking about are 24" x 24" with the pattern repeating every 12" x 12". They have the impression that this can be screwed up onto plywood and the space above can be somewhat accessable. Does that make sense? I would think you would have to take quite a bit off to get access and it wouldn't be easy.
Fonzie -
Just for clarity purposes, the second part of my last post was really commenting about tin on backsplashes.
As far as installation of a ceiling, we did it on furring strips, The stuff was pretty accurate on measurements, so layout (over existing plaster ceilings) was standard stuff. I have seen stories in magazines like TOH or OHJ where people (homeowners) put it up and fastened it to plywood. To me, that's extra weight that needs to be handled (for the ply), and it's harder to shim it down flat and/or level. I don't see much benefit for fastening since they usually go into the corners which are on 12" centers. So, why fill the middle? To each their own.
As far as fastening and removal, we used nails. They were probably 1" long, maybe a little longer (1.5"?). They were galvanized, if I recall and were headed nails. There was a bump or dimple on each corner and the nails went into that. Don't recall specifically if the holes were pre-drilled, want to say no. Our panels were 2' x 8', harder to handle than the ones you are using. BTW, aren't the 2x2 panels used for drop in ceilings? Check with seller. I see no benefit to using screws, actually it sounds like more of a PITA. Removal? Not. It goes up to stay up. If there were a particular section that needed to be removable, like under a 2nd floor trap or something, I would design for that, in a limited area. But to design plywood and ceiling to be removable doesn't sound like it would be good.
I also recall we used a field with 12" in the middle, then a stippled border of about a foot around the outside, with tin cove (3" and 6") around the perimeter. The stipple allowed for out of square walls to be adjusted and it let us work to a full "tile" in the middle. We backprimed with zinc chromate paint to prevent rust on the back, and we had to touch up/fill in some seams on the cove and the panels where it would not lay flat.
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals