Anyone know how this wall to door drywall detail is done?
yojimbo2
| Posted in General Discussion on
I’m guessing metal with paper bullnose corner is used. But it I need details.
Installing a door in a house where there is no door and I have to match this detail
Replies
Are you referring to the "frameless" door jambs?
On close inspection I've always found those to have been done with quarter round used as a plaster stop around the door frame.
kerfed jamb perhaps
I'd be nice to have a close up photo, but I doubt that it's a quarter round molding detail...or a plaster job. Probably Drywall. Looks like the jamb has been milled with a kerf to accept the leg of a 3/4" vinyl bullnose bead and then the stop molding is bullnosed. This gives the double bullnose feathered effect. What's it look like on the other side?
BTW, looks like a 4 hinge door. 8'?
definitely kerfed jamb with bullnose corner bead inset, then floated, finished and painted. Done many of those in Tucson.
Apologizes for the not so detailed photo. I'm a visual learner, any chance of a plan view diagram of how this is accompished?
i was going to reverse engineer to get the look, by inseting the door jamb back from the wall and use a combo of j mold and bullnose to try and pull this off. I have to create this look on both sides of the door.
here ya go
It will most likely be something like this...or a slight variation of. LIke Calvin suggested, Trimtex is a good place to get the vinyl bead. Their full cataloge can be reviewed here:http://www.trim-tex.com/product_catalog.php
Door jambs.
Whenever drywall trim is kerffed into a door jamb, it's best to be sure that the hinge and lock set mortises are finished before the drywall is finished. I learned this the hard way when I hit a jamb with a chisel and shattered all the mud on the drywall trim.
That is so awesome, thanks so much for the drawing. Thanks to everyone for all their indo.
Yo
Take a look and/or call Trim-Tex for some direction on beads available.
This is pretty simple really - place a kerf in the jamb where it needs to be to match the others and I like to use metal bullnose corner bead since it's more ridgid than plastic. Take a careful look and you'll see the jambs are also more narrow than normal. There is a special bullnose bead with the flange on one side shorter than the side that gets screwed/stapled to the drywall, or normal bullnose bead can be trimmed.
This is not an easy task to do well and probably takes twice as long as a fully trimmed out door.
The door jamb is normally held at least partially by the trim and in this system it has to be solid without the assitance of the trim. A few 16g trim nails and minimal shims are not going to cut it. I like to use plywood rips glued and well stapled to pad out the jambs and pine or doug fir shims glued in place. Deck screws under the hinges and under the door stop if stain grade and in normal spots and puttied over if paint grade.
Just remember there's no adjusting the jamb once the bullnose is installed.
This is pretty simple really - place a kerf in the jamb where it needs to be to match the others and I like to use metal bullnose corner bead since it's more ridgid than plastic. Take a careful look and you'll see the jambs are also more narrow than normal. There is a special bullnose bead with the flange on one side shorter than the side that gets screwed/stapled to the drywall, or normal bullnose bead can be trimmed.
This is not an easy task to do well and probably takes twice as long as a fully trimmed out door.
The door jamb is normally held at least partially by the trim and in this system it has to be solid without the assitance of the trim. A few 16g trim nails and minimal shims are not going to cut it. I like to use plywood rips glued and well stapled to pad out the jambs and pine or doug fir shims glued in place. Deck screws under the hinges and under the door stop if stain grade and in normal spots and puttied over if paint grade.
Just remember there's no adjusting the jamb once the bullnose is installed.