The design of the upper deck started as an attempt to hide an ugly bump-out shed roof. (It’s on the right side and you can hardly tell it’s there.)
Railings were made from re-milled, salvaged floor joists–sassafras of all things. Railings on lower deck will match whenever I can again find really rot-resistant wood.
Prescriptive codes don't address the connection at less common angles, so base the connection off more typical ones using bolts, structural screws, blocking, and steel tension ties.
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Interesting- they obviously don't have the 4" code for spacing between balusters there. Are you just replacing the railing on the lower deck? I would guess the deck is not built to todays standards codes either.We would have to get a permit before tackling a project like that.
Neat old house- what is going on with the upper wall with the lattice or is that glass block?
How did you fasten your upper rail to the column?
Bob
"Rather be a hammer than a nail"
Upper rail spacings really are within 4" (except where symmetry made about 4 5/8" and inspector didn't say anything). Don't exactly know how it applies to the triangular areas though... There's an amazing amount of wood in those railings & posts. I think the mass makes the inserts look deceptively open. It's an adaptation of the railings at Monticello.
I know the lower isn't--it's temporary and no kids.
Upper wall is glass block in large bath. Arched-top towel warmer is in the "pyramidal" section.
The two rails (upper and a smaller lower rail that's hard to see) are continuous through the intermediate posts, dowelled and epoxied into the round column (polycast) and mortised into the end posts. Rubber roof below and NO penetrations through the membrane.
Edited 11/14/2002 11:06:00 AM ET by MTINSEMO
Edited 11/14/2002 11:50:48 AM ET by MTINSEMO
Mtinsemo- keep posting shots as you do the lower deck- Thanks for sharingBob
"Rather be a hammer than a nail"
Cornice is box-beam construction with indirect lighting. Sealed and painted gloss white with rope lighting sitting on top of little shelves near the top of the beam sides. The glass just "glows" and it's nearly impossible to see the lighting source from any angle. Both white and yellow lights.
Used single-stick closed-cell foam around the glass perimeter and rested the glass on top. North facing on a severe slope, lots of wind and not a hint of the glass lifting.
Just playing around.
Don't bogart the Ghost
Quittin' Time
Luka- don't goose the ghost........ya might get a handful of sheet........:-)Bob
"Rather be a hammer than a nail"
ROFLOL
: )Don't bogart the Ghost
Quittin' Time
Actually that's kind of interesting. I really wanted to put a window(s) there but that chuck of blank wall is an 7 1/2' deep shower, a funky closet above the lower leg of a staircase and the landing area of the staircase.
Thought of dummy windows but against a tiled shower wall? I don't think there's any way to make it look even close to real
Thought of putting a door out the landing (and had a really neat exterior stair design) but there is a 20' header above those casement windows on the 1st floor that spans the 2-car garage--only one of the doors is currently installed. Since the garage doors have no headers it would have involved demolishing part of the brick foundation and installing steel--not worth it.
Do though appreciate the idea. Any others?
It was my thought to do it with dummy windows as well. I read that there was a bath behind that wall, so figured real windows could easily be out of the question.
I think that the tendency is to want to do something about that expanse of bare wall. However, I think running that downspout over it only makes the problem worse. Here it is with the downspout moved, and no windows. I think that even though the bare wall is left there, it still looks better with the downspout re-routed.
As for the bare spot, what about some sort of medallion or something ?Don't bogart the Ghost
Quittin' Time
Thanks!
Yep, that downspout is the other thing that bothers me--I went to great length to keep them off the front facade. The seamless gutters are the ONLY thing I didn't do myself here and they were installed before that addition.
You're very right--moving the downspout does help. There will be a louvered air INLET about 3/5 of the way over in the closet above the stairs. Was thinking of making it octagonal (or something non-rectangular) and intentionally oversized (only part of it used).
Will post a photo of how the gutter runs THROUGH that cornice later--it's really strange but so far, so good as there are good screens and at least that part of the gutters are easy to access for cleaning the little stuff that makes its way through the screens :( Would do the photo now but it's raw and misty outside and I'm in the midst of a nasty cold--hence the quick replies :)
The gutter on the shed-roofed bumpout has no downspout--just small drainage holes at the bottom and a big hole in the side mid-span (it actually fills a wall-hung fountain below). This works OK except in downpours when the water overflows the end--I really need to put in a downspout somehow. Truly amazing how much rain on a roof with less then 30 sq.ft. exposed. Re-routing the main downspout like you show would actually make the a connection look much less awkward.
Really wish I could have made that doorway from the landing as the stairs also had an ascending leg up to the balcony. The architect I consult loved it.
Luka, this might help dress up that bare wall...
If ignorance is bliss then apathy is sheer heaven...
That is exactly the picture I had in the back of my mind, when I suggested it.
But I think something a bit more abstract, and not as much contrast is in order on this wall.
Who knows, this fish may even fit if it were done with the existing siding. But I still think that something more abstract would fit in better in the current context.
Don't bogart the Ghost
Quittin' Time
My second bit of cabinetry--first was a large walnut kitchen where all the profit went to purchasing the BIG tools...
Linen cabinet across hall at top of main steps. Made from white ash. Mortise & tenon; "proud" panels; mortise hinges; dust lining; wood grain filler; rubbed satin polyurethane.
Crown & dentil are "polish work" no varnish, just wax and you would never know...
House is formal in design but not unduly fancy--very good material/workmanship. Most of the rest of the built-ins are/will be painted, but though since it was at the top of the stairs it would look good to go with a natural finish very similar to the color of the floor so it looked as though it "carries you up" the steps.
Was kind of difficult to balance the formal/"unfancy" with such a big thing (8' x 9') but think it worked...
3rd bit of cabinetry. Maple of some sort--I think the "culls" from figured curly. In master bedroom. Good sized (14 x 15) but doors, window, radiator, fireplace really didn't leave a good place for a traditional dresser without it looking "cramped."
LOTS of individual shelves for shirts/tops/sweaters, etc. Counter top inside for pocket/purse stuff. Drawers and tip-out bins below for undies, belts, socks, etc. Coat hooks (my side) for "not quite dirties..." These are "near twins" but it's kind of hard to see the one on the right. Of course "hers" is a bit larger...
Have seen way too many double pocket doors sag to the middle in homes old and new so installed a big header that actually pivots at the center point. Hefty springs at the ends keep the weight of the doors (in various positions) from moving the header.
I know the pocket doors are actually too wide, but these were two of only three original salvageable doors in the place.
So you're a heiney doctor, right? That's some anal sheit. If you're just a traveling carp I might be able to help you settle down...that's some pretty work! It's okay, I can fix it!
Just can't figure out whether it's more fun to plan it, engineer it, design it or build it.
Got a marriage proposal out of this one...
How 'bout the using it over and over and over and over without it falling apart part...or when folks come over and say "WOW, that's cool..."?and the best is when yer sweetie says "I love this place!" It's okay, I can fix it!
I don't build nuthin' less it's built to use... And be repairable in case it's abused.
Cool! Is it hard to build a duck? You say build stuff to use, what do you use the duck for? How hard is it to repair if it gets abused?
Would it be an animal it would probably be a groundhog. Like for the ancient Egyptians it would serve as a reminder of animals that were exterminated.
Of course they were MUCH more successful at removing crocodiles and hippopotomi from the Lower Nile that I've been at removing groundhogs from my vegetable garden.
Dang, I was kinda thinking it looked like a skunkhat. I'm much more glader it's a whistle pig<G> It's okay, I can fix it!
And purdy enuf to not want to abuse it..
Excellence is its own reward!
"The first rule is to keep an untroubled spirit. The second is to look things in the face and know them for what they are." --Marcus Aurelius