Replies

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Aug 07, 2008 06:46am | #1

   Yes.   My own house - to separate a media room from the rest of the house.   Works very well.   It's expensive and very heavy (which is, of course, what you want).   Tapes and finishes like any other rock.

   There are different types - http://www.quietsolution.com/html/quietrock.html with different costs - but your local lumberyard may only carry one or two flavors.

   Jeff

   
   

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   Edited 8/6/2008 11:48 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke

1. 
   timkline | Aug 12, 2008 12:49am | #13

   i assume you went with the 525  ?

   do you recall the cost ?

    carpenter in transition

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Aug 12, 2008 12:57am | #14

   At the time it was nearly $300/sheet

   Jeff

1. 
   timkline | Aug 12, 2008 01:39am | #15

   holy c r a p.

   thanks

    carpenter in transition

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Aug 12, 2008 06:05am | #16

   I think they've reformulated this and that the 510 (1/2") is around $65/sht and the 5/8" (525) is around $100/sheet.   Mine had metal layers - I don't think that they're doing that any more.

   Jeff

2. 
   QuietWill | Aug 15, 2008 04:57pm | #20

   $300 a sheet????? where was your dealer? I'll get it for you for WAAAAAAAY less! Next time call the manufacturer if you get that kind of price again.

2. 
   MSLiechty | Aug 07, 2008 07:41pm | #2

   One of my neighbors installed in between his unit and his other neighbor due to lots of noise being transmitted between the common wall of his condo. It did nothing to soften the noise. I have no idea if it was installed correctly. But these common walls have 2 layers if 5/8" gyp on each side and the 1/2" quiet rock didn't do a thing.

   ML

1. 
   AitchKay | Aug 08, 2008 04:27am | #3

   With soundproofing, it basically boils down to three things: 1) weakest link, 2) leaks, and 3) transmission.

   1) Your soundproof wall will not be much help in a building with a shared truss roof, for instance. It'll be like a volleyball game, with the sound going back and forth over the top of the net (in this case, the wall).2) Cracks'll kill ya. Use acoustic caulk where the gypboard meets the floor and the walls. For multiple layers, start one tight to the ceiling, preferably squeezed into a pre-laid bead of acoustic caulk. Finish that layer with a bead of caulk at the floor, then start the next layer tight to the floor -- caulked in, of course.3) When possible, avoid physical transmission. Wide-plate, staggered-stud walls are OK, but why share the top and bottom plate? Completely separate walls are much better. And every nail can be looked at as a tin-can telephone. We did one remodel job where, after patching and caulking every hole in the existing floor (old radiator lines, electrical outlets, etc.), a layer of Acoustimat (basically glorified carpet pad) was put down. Every inch of the floor had to be hand-inspected, and every errant underlayment staple had to be pounded flat. If one nail poked through the mat, there's your tin-can telephone.The Acoustimat was rolled about six inches up the wall, and every seam was taped. Then we pumped in as much Litecrete as the structural engineer would allow. The mass of the Litecrete, physically isolated from the structure below, made an excellent sound barrier.Then, with a noise-generator (basically extra-loud radio static) going, we used our ears. We traced a leak back to cracks in a block-wall stairway. It was amazing to hear the sound go away as we zipped up the crack with acoustic caulk on all accessible cracks!AitchKay

1. 
   loucarabasi | Aug 08, 2008 01:29pm | #4

   How about a home theatre in basement? concrete floor,resilent channel on ceiling,quite rock, door???

   Ever use quiterock? Green glue???  will acoustic mat workon concrete floor?

   Thanks AitchKay

1. 
   AitchKay | Aug 08, 2008 04:37pm | #5

   Sounds great. Lots of mass in a basement. I should have put mass as first on my list. The channel helps with isolation -- it's a good idea. Some people use hat channel by mistake. Make sure it's the real acoustc resilient channel. I've never seen Quietrock, but it sounds like a good product. Maybe a layer of reular drywall,too? Multiple layers add mass, and help with sealing the cracks between and around the sheets.I've also heard that if you're doing multiple layers, you should use different thicknesses, e.g., one layer of 5/8", and one layer of 1/2". They say it cuts down on resonance between the layers.I don't think you'd want mat on the basement floor, at least not for soundproofing. You're already about as good as you can get there. In our case, we had a concert auditorium above a noisy restaurant. The mat provided physical isolation, and the Litecrete provided mass.Good luck!AitchKay

3. 
   QuietWill | Aug 08, 2008 06:05pm | #6

   People have to remember that sound acts like water! It will ALWAYS take the path of least resistance. So because of that the old myths of putting up egg cartons on the walls is gone.

   QuietRock is designed as a damped panel, and because of that it needs to be installed correctly. The panels are designed to go directly to the studs and with 24OC spacing. Unfortunately most structures are built with 16oc studs spacing and because of that the damping qualities in QuietRock is reduced. So because of this problem furring out the wall is your best bet to make the panels work.

   Putting QuietRock directly over existing drywall is another issue for QuietRock. It will work if put over drywall but its performance is hindered because the panels are designed for damping. which means that the panels need to stay flexible. Putting QuietRock over existing drywall makes it more ridged and that robs it of its performance.

   Because Sound ALWAYS takes the path of least resistance sealing between the panels and behind outlets and junction boxes is very important. If this is not done or your not planning on doing this in your next soundproofing project. Take the money you were going to blow on your media room or recording studio and go on a nice vacation with the family.

   That being said if you install QuietRock correctly it WILL work. So if you think it doesn't work because you installed it incorrectly. Know the product before installing it and wasting money!

1. 
   loucarabasi | Aug 10, 2008 10:36am | #7

   Be Quiet Will!!!!

   -Lou C

1. 
   AitchKay | Aug 10, 2008 04:53pm | #8

   Hey, QuietWill,So is the QuietRock a softer, deader material than regular board? And if you combine it with regular, harder GWB, the GWB will resonate, and spoil the QuiteRock's deadening qualities? Did I get that right?AitchKay

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Aug 10, 2008 07:45pm | #9

   Soundproofing home theatres - http://www.quietsolution.com/Home_Theater.pdf

   http://www.quietsolution.com/QRock525_dsheet.pdf

   http://www.quietsolution.com/html/qs_research.html

   Jeff

2. 
   QuietWill | Aug 11, 2008 05:02pm | #10

   QuietRock is a GWB laminated together with a viscoelastic polymer that does the sound attenuation. The technology is called constrained layered damping. Putting GWB over the QuietRock is ok because the QuietRock would be placed to the studs and thats what it needs to work efficiently. The good thing about QuietRock (other than it works) is that most of the panels are fire rated 1 hour. So if someone is building and needs that 1 hour fire rating no other material is needed over it. That cuts down on labor costs compared to mass loaded vinyl or sound clips and even multiple layers of gyp. That means that QuietRock can be used in a lot of different applications and will almost always effect the bottom line (budget).

1. 
   loucarabasi | Aug 13, 2008 12:01pm | #17

   Go Back to eating your tofu and bean sprouts. How about the employee discount to Mr Lou? Were like brothers now!!!

   Green Glue Lou

2. 
   QuietWill | Aug 13, 2008 05:03pm | #18

   Tofu???? Have you ever eaten that ####? and Bean sprouts are good on a turkey sandwich! As for employee discounts (Brother) I already used all of mine up when I converted moms garage! and shes been wondering when your going to call and pay her the money she loaned you for your bypass surgery! And use the Green Glue on the holes in your underwear. SHHHHHHHH! be quiet!!!

3. 
   loucarabasi | Aug 15, 2008 09:28am | #19

   Touche!!!

2. 
   JohnSprungX | Aug 11, 2008 09:16pm | #12

   > So because of that the old myths of putting up egg cartons on the walls is gone.

   Egg cartons are the poor man's version of foam wedges.  Neither the cartons nor the wedges are intended to stop sound from going through walls.  What they do is absorb some of the high frequency sound to reduce the amount of it that gets reflected around within the room.  Proper wedges range up to a foot or more deep, actual egg cartons are like three octaves smaller than that, and only roll off a little of the very high end. 

   They're not completely useless, they're just not for isolation. 

   The completely separate box within a box remains the best solution.  We've used it for Foley stages, where we record very subtle sound effects such as clothing movement.   

    

   -- J.S.

    

4. 
   lindenboy | Aug 11, 2008 08:59pm | #11

   As has already been mentioned, QuietRock is part of a larger system.  Make sure you address all components of the system as the manufacturer instructs.  Also, perhaps shoot for a certain level of performance.  That will help you design the entire envelope -- like shoot for a particuilar STC (Sound Transmission Coefficient) rating.

   We specified QR on a recent project, where we were designing several courtrooms and had wall thicknesses limited to 1 5/8".  It definitely helped out.

   With wood it probably doesn't matter, but for some reason the GC had to pre-drill all the holes -- QR is kind of a 2-part laminated thing, basic gyp. brd. up front with a ceramic backer.  I think the metal studs were twisting and not accepting the screws through that ceramic backer.  Oh, and it is definitely an upcharge.

   You might be best off furring out a new isolated partition wall and double boarding it with regular gyp?  Anyway, good luck.

   "It depends on the situation..."