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Approx cost to install french drains

WillieWonka | Posted in General Discussion on December 28, 2008 07:22am

I have a HO who had me look at a house they want to buy. The basement is wet, soggy wet. We’ve had recent heavy rains which, when the broken gutters are factored in, have made for a very wet basement. The HO wants me to come up with a ROUGH cost to install french drains and a sump of course with it. I have no idea how much an FD costs to install. Anyone have a good gauge on such a cost? The house measure 50 x 25 footprint. I’m able to come up with costs for all the other work except the FDs so any help is appreciated. I don’t believe the HO will make an offer on the home, otherwise I’d go find a sub that does this and get their thoughts.

If at first you don’t succeed, try using a hammer next time…everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time.  -ME
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Replies

  1. MikeRyan | Dec 28, 2008 07:24am | #1

    If they're not buying, tell them it's 90k...why does it matter?  If they aren't serious, why waste your time even contemplating it.  Unless, you're charging for estimates...

    1. WillieWonka | Dec 28, 2008 07:46am | #2

      I said I don't believe they will make an offer, but I have no certainty of it. Maybe they will. The owner said he'd be willing to spend up to $25K in improvements to the home. If I can come in that range he might make an offer. I know what my other improvements add up to, so not sure if the FD will cross the threshhold or not.If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time.  -ME

      1. Piffin | Dec 28, 2008 03:23pm | #3

        I can't think of anything on a house that could vary more in cost with the small amt of information you have given here. somewhere between 3K and 33K and do they want landscaping and plantings restored? 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

        1. WillieWonka | Dec 28, 2008 04:09pm | #4

          Sorry, I'm referring to an interior drain, cutting the floor and putting in the perimeter drain from the inside. It's a block wall foundation also.If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time.  -ME

          1. mrfixitusa | Dec 28, 2008 04:23pm | #5

            I have a friend who got two estimates for the french drains on the interior of the homeOne was for $7 K and the other came in at about $10 KI think the higher estimate involved a drain gutter in the middle of the floor in addition to the perimeterI believe they guarantee the basement will never leak again and you are encouraged to carpet and finish out the basement

          2. JeffinPA | Dec 28, 2008 05:49pm | #8

            Now you gave some info to work with.

            Re. chasing the bid. Chase it.  I spent time with a client looking at 4 homes before they bought and spent $70K on the renovations.  I was the only bidder because I had completely earned their trust re. advice and honesty in going thru the process of house hunting. 

            Re. the slab, you need to rent a 90 lb electric jackhammer, bust up the perrimeter about 6" dig down and install stone and draintile, then re-pour the slab.

            If there is a 1" gap between block and slab, it  will break out easier. 

            If the house is old and they poured 2" of concrete, it is easier.  (if 5" and a good mix, it  is a bugger

            You need 5 gallon buckets to remove old debris and carry in pea gravel.

            Is there nice soil under the slab or is it hard stuff that will be a bugger to dig?

            Obviously there are a lot of variables, but I would figure me and 2 laborers about 3-4 days for the work plus the materials and another day to spit polish and install the sump pump with just me.  (It could go quicker and it could go slower, but you dont know until you  do some test drilling  or hammering. 

            I can guess pretty good for my area since I know the different soils and have played with it enough.

            Realize you will want to have a way to easily dump the waste and get the pea gravel sand and cement to the job as well as mixing up the small amount of concrete necessary to do the patch.

            I dont use a saw and tell my clients I wont use a saw.  The edge will be jagged at the repair and so far all my clients are fine with it.  I take a little extra time to work the concrete so the transition is smooth.  (i've seen some rough work on some other projects)

            If client wants clean cut, you need water, shop vac and an electric concrete saw.

            Re. the block, you need weep holes placed in the bottom of the  block below slab grade that  are not blocked after you pour the slab so that the water coming into the cores of the block can get into the draintile.

            With all that said, I would fix everything with gutters and the grade, and see if you can take care of all the water problem that way.  (if client moves forward)  You mighte be able to save them a bunch of money if the exterior work solves the problem.

          3. Dogmeat12 | Dec 29, 2008 12:51am | #10

            JeffinPa, I do that kind of job just about the same way you do except that I use a 4" grinder with a dry-cut diamond blade to score my cut line (or brake line) on the concrete floor. One guy scoring about an inch deep and one guy with a vac will leave a nicer line to repair with minimal dust. Also I've learned to come out about a foot from the wall for my breakline. Some foundation guys use a 24" bucket to dig the footers and leave a lot of footer under the slab.

          4. JeffinPA | Dec 29, 2008 04:05am | #11

            Good ideas Dogmeat.

            I have a 10" electric chop saw that i use for cutting for new windows, etc when I am inside and could use that one but would still use water.

            The guy I work with and I have a good system.  he holds the pump sprayer and I hold the chop saw.  Virtually no dust when we cut.  We take a break or two to vac up when the puddle I am standing in starts to make me nervous but otherwise it works great.  (we plug into a gfi also)

            I have been lucky on most of mine that the footings were not wide and I could use a 4" trench shovel and drop a 3" draintile in with some gravel and call it done.

            I always keep at least 1 inch of gravel over the footings, put poly on top prior to pour and make sure the weep holes have a clear path thru the gravel to the draintile.    My patch concrete is only usually 2 1/2 to 3" thick but I dont sweat that.  I want to make sure there is no doubt where the water is going. 

             I had a townhome building with failed draintile when i was a super and we had to rip up 6 homes 3 of which had finished basements because they used too much concrete and not enough stone and missed some critical details.  (that really stinks bad)

            Live and learn.

          5. Piffin | Dec 28, 2008 07:45pm | #9

            That would be an interior drain, not a perimeter drain. A perimeter drain runs around the perimeter. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          6. User avater
            McDesign | Dec 29, 2008 05:16am | #12

            A perimeter drain runs around the perimeter.

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

             

             Man, the things folks can learn here - I see what you mean!

            Forrest - awed again

      2. brownbagg | Dec 28, 2008 05:43pm | #7

        $25,001.17

  2. mrfixitusa | Dec 28, 2008 04:27pm | #6

    this may be rare but I saw a house recently where there was wiring for the electrical outlets coming up from the slab in the basement

    Just another consideration

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