I am renovating a old barn into a home and would like to install a single layer of 2X6 T&G plank flooring in the upper story (which will be bedroom spaces). The planking will act as the ceiling of the lower level (so that the timber beams remain exposed overhead) as well as the finish flooring above. Since the 4X10 joists are on 2 foot centers, strength is not an issue. However, I am concerned about noise transmission between the upper and lower levels of the house, since there will be no insulation, drywall, etc between floors. Anyone have experience with this type of construction?
thanks!
shawn
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You will hear every footfall and too much of the voices.
Another common complaint with that style is that dust ( sawdust or what falls off feet in later years) works its way down through the T&G joints as folks walk and end up on the couch, dining room table....whatever is there.
I have worked in a timber house where they had the bents at 4' OC. They had the 2x6T&G then a plie of homasote, then 2x4 sleepers to allow for passage of romex and phone wires, then the 3/4" subflooring.. I think carpet went over that.
For my house we used 1x8T&G spanning the beams at 19.2"OC on an 8/12 diag, then 1/2" homasote, then 1/2" sheathing, then a hardwood floor with occasional area or throw rugs. That works fairly well, no voices sound through, but anybody clumping in hard heels overhead is very distracting.
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Thanks for that. The thought of somebody's skin flakes raining down into my bowl of cheerios makes me reconsider the planking idea.
Problem now is I have designed around a 2" floor thickness, although there is still time to change it slightly. I was hoping to keep it simple with the single layer of flooring, but perhaps simple is not better in this case.
Ideas appreciated!
shawn
mine is not much over 2"..Let's see now, 3/4" T&G + 1/2" homasote and 1/2" plywood = 1-3/4". Then you could use a floated engioneered floor over the cushion pad they sell for it. That is about 5/16" to 7/16" depending...
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I do want to stay with real pine flooring, as I'm not a fan of the manufactured stuff (especially in a barn renovation). Plus, I will be milling my own flooring from the old salvaged barn timbers. I'm assuming you used the Homasote as a sound barrier? Why that instead of say, EPS? Also, could I skip the 1/2" plywood layer and nail the T&G flooring directly through the intermediate layers, into the floor joists below?
eps would give you squeaks unless you used foam as a glue a lot. The idea was sound buffer, not thermal insulation.Could you...
I suppose, if you used face nailing over the beams I guess, or screw and bung over.
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Man your right about the dust.
One of my least favorite jobs is pulling up old floors and
getting to the old dust boards.
I'll take plaster and lath over that any day. PS
Not to fond of the piles of razor blades in the bathroom
walls either.
Working on a 1922 building built just this way - the second floor (above the ceiling boards nailed over the exposed beames) is overframed with 2 x 4's 16" o.c. on edge plus finish floor.
Jeff