Are these the best nails to use on cedar shiplap siding?
The panels for my house were just delivered and this is how the siding looks.
Upgrading the footings and columns that support a girder beam is an opportunity to level out the floor above.
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Replies
Well, they look kinda like nails, probably galvanized. There isn't much more we can tell you, without more info.
Stainless steel nails, but is there a way to hide them? Or use smaller ones?
Hi there,
You definitely want stainless with cedar to minimize the extractive bleeding, so that's good. If those are ring shank siding nails (which they appear to be) than yes they are correct for your siding. Those are the same nails you would use for cedar clapboards, shingles, etc. Smaller nails are generally not used with siding. Some siding is "blind-nailed" where appearance really matters. Your siding/trim looks fairly simple and rustic so face-nailing (very neatly) would be the typical method. If you are leaving your siding unfinished it will weather to a silver/gray and the stainless nail heads will dull becoming almost invisible. If you are painting/staining than the nail heads will go away too. One thing is for certain, do not set the nails below the surface and try to fill the hole. Nothing will last long term and it will look terrible.
On closer examination, that looks like #2 pine tongue and groove siding which would definitely want to be face-nailed into solid blocking, framing to control the seasonal movement that will happen. SIDE NOTE: I hope you have deep roof roverhangs or live in a dry climate because the window installation at the sill looks like trouble. Is this a house or shed/outbuilding?
Sorry, says "cedar" in
Sorry, says "cedar" in original post...
I too think it is T&G.
I too think it is T&G. Face-nailing is the proper way to fasten the product. For cedar, non-resessed SS siding nails (with smallish heads) are correct. Do not use finish nails.