Replies

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Nov 06, 2002 06:57am | #1

   here's a series of pics for building a tapered column over a 4x4 pt post

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

   
1. 
   xMikeSmith | Nov 06, 2002 07:00am | #2

   here's another with somewhat longer tapers, in massed grouping, both of theses examples use red cedar shop-built moldings and GP Prime Trim cladding

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

   Edited 11/7/2002 7:37:53 AM ET by Mike Smith

   
1. 
   MrMagoo | Nov 08, 2002 08:44pm | #3

   Mike,

   Great pictures!! I have a few questions if you don't mind.

   1. If you were doing tapered columns all the way to the floor, what size taper do you like for the top and bottom? Assume roughly 8'-4" column.

   2. Where the column sides meet, do you cap with any fancy molding or is it just flush?

   3. Are all four sides cut the same width?

   Like the original poster, I'm having a hard time with this as well. Thanks for your help.

   Tim

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Nov 09, 2002 12:15am | #4

   I'd let the material govern the design.... pls excuse the typos.. a little eye problem..

   IE: GP Prime trim comes in 11.25 width... and the top has to case a 4x4.. since we build them round -robin, each pc. would be a taper from 11.25 to about 4.5...

   also , GP Prime trim doesn't like edge nailing so we back each corner up with solid blocking, prenailed & glued to each panel.. we use the new PL poluurethane glue Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   alias | Nov 10, 2002 05:17pm | #5

   mike nice work... a couple of questions if i may ..... 1) how does the edge finish of the primed trim. any problem with them openining up i' ve used the G&P on fascia and like it and the way it takes paint and it's stability. actually the question should be how did you finish it..... and the 2) the cap itself the type of lumber you used, was that primed trim also, it dosent look it. i saw the screws on the corner, did you use it through out , with plugs?? the proportions are perfect , very nice indeed thanks for any pointers...... cheers bear

2. 
   jhausch | Nov 10, 2002 05:31pm | #6

   Thems some purty column jobs!!!! I always like the grouped ones, but one side of my brain says, "man that's a lot of extra work, and how do you paint the innards when grouped tightly, and 'excuse' 'excuse' 'excuse' . . . ."

   FWIW and IMHO, if you need a full height (8') column in the Arts and Crafts style, build it with a Box Bottom and Tapered Top.  Use the golden ratio of 1.618 to 1.  For your 100", the bottom would be 38" and the top tapered part would be 62".  After that, it is up to you if you want to build what you feel visually is the right proportion 'width-wise', or go with what the materials dictate.  (Co-incidentally, the bottom box height of 38" gives you a nice landing for handrails.)Steelkilt Lives!

2. 
   Ragnar17 | Nov 11, 2002 07:58am | #7

   I've been involved with work on a lot of original Craftsman style houses.  The degree of taper varies widely, so I'd just use your own eye in determining that. 

   One technique I like to use when building box columns is to use rabbets.  That is, two boards will be full width, and will be rabbeted on each of their edges.  The other two boards will be plain S4S, and a little narrower.  Hopefully that makes sense!  Anyway, I've found the rabbets really helpful in assembly and worth the time spent in the shop.

   If you plan on putting any cap details on the top of the columns, just plan on sloping the tops 5 to 10 degrees to shed water.

   Ragnar