Asphalt patching from Street to Driveway
I am building a driveway of concrete pavers (brick size). Where my driveway meets with the street, there is 6″ – 12″ gap between my driveway and the street asphalt. I can’t use pavers to fill that gap because the gap is in City property. The City said it is my responsibility to patch the space with asphalt and tie to my new driveway. My question is how to do the patch.
My driveway is about 2″ above the street level (keep water run-off out). I want to shape a small ramp with asphalt to smooth out the 2″ height difference for cars and fill in the street gap. I think they sell asphalt in small quantity for this application (50′ wide driveway), but what is the proper installation process for installing asphalt? Can it be 2″ thick and still be effective or must it be thicker? Does it require a plate compactor or can I hand tamp it? Can I do it in 30 degree weather or must it be warmer? Do I need to pour tar on the borders when I’m done? How long before it “cures” for traffic?
Replies
Normally this is done with a small placement of concrete about 4 inches thick, filling the space between pavers to asphalt. If you use asphalt alone it will crumble and deteriorate rapidly within a few months.
Woodway,
I suppose I could build the bump up with concrete, but isn't that thick since the bump is only 2" high (street surface to top of pavers.) The flat portion of the street (gap of 6" to 12" currently with gravel) would be weird with concrete, wouldn't it, since the street is asphalt? Could I fill the street (flat surface) with asphalt by digging down 4" and the bump up with concrete? Trying to find a structurally sound solution that looks fitting too. Thanks.
How about backing off the pavers away from the road a few feet and pour a concrete apron? Stamp forms & dyes can be used to make it more appealling to the eye. You can use a 2x laid flat on the road for the edge there so it'll give you 1 1/2" bump to help compensate for future repaving.
Slope it don't bump it. Like someone else here suggested, cut the pavers back some and slope the concrete.
Fill the gap with low slump concrete, add carbon black to make the concrete black if you are worried about a color match to the street.
I know it sounds goofy, but all the work I used to do on FAA and military airfields, the rule was - cutting through asphalt, patch with concrete; cut through concrete; patch with asphalt.
Forrest
I guess it is unanimous that I need to patch with concrete throughout. Can I buy this high-strength 5000 PSI concrete mix from Home Depot and make the patch. I will just need to dig out the gravel to give myself the 3-4" thick base. Do I need rebar at all? Thx.
PS Where would I buy this carbon material for coloring the concrete?
Depot does have the 5000 psi bags (mine does, at least). Some of the real concrete guys will be along shortly to recommend a reinforcement schedule. Carbon I know nothing about.
Forrest
carbon material for coloring the concrete?
Lowes and home depot both sell concrete coloring mix, many different colors. Think Lowes is a liquid, you can also buy powder to add when you mix the concrete.
The black is usually soot (carbon black) put in a fancy package so you can be charged $5.
Black tint for latex paint also works. So does pulverizing charcoal, but the $5 for a sack of black concrete coloring is lots easier <G>
Circa 1982,... new Sears store with automotive service area. 175 yard pour with trowel in carbon black coloring.
We hung 6 mil poly over all opening, except where the trucks were pulling in.
Two hours into the finishing stage and you could not see across the slab. Finishers came out at the end of the day looking like coal miners. Painters cussed the concrete guys for months after the pour (that stuff bleeds through forever).
Lamp black is even finer than carbon black,.. never try to use it for trowel in color on concrete.
Never tried paint tints.
How does the glycol in the tint effect concrete?
Dave
You could leave it for the winter (filling it with stone) and have a paver do it properly in the spring. You will have to wait until they have other work in the area for such a small job, but they have the hot asphalt and proper rolling equipment to do it right.
Didn't say if you have curb and gutter or not. If not, get some road base and fill in the area. Go down to dirt and put in at least two layers, wetting and compactintg each one with a 8' 4X4. This will allow a flexible "joint" between the asphalt and pavers, which will move with time, and will be paved the next time the street is done.
If you have C&G, then try to pour a laydown in line with the end of the driveway returns.