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Asphault Shingles

Hoohuli | Posted in General Discussion on July 6, 2005 06:22am

I have a client with a lot of rot under and behind the fascia board. This was caused by a piece of 1×3 redwood trim on the face of the fascia that was added prior to the roofing and put on level with the top of the fascia. This made the asphault roofing bend out almost level for about 1.5 inches. They then added a 90 dg. metal drip edge level with the top of the trim board. The result is the water runs down the roof, out the level part of the roofing and then back under the roofing and over the trim and fascia. Result rot!! I was thinking of just trimming the top off of the trim to achieve the proper slope, but was wondering if the edge layers of asphault shingles would bend down with the heat of the sun or will I need to replace all the bottom layers of shingles. Also, could I force them down with sand bags over a few weeks. The owner does not want to replace the whole roof, but I need to solve this before repairing the rotted areas. Only in Hawaii!!!! The building techniques that pass over here are just amazing!!!!

If you don’t feel pride when you are done, do it again.

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  1. User avater
    RichBeckman | Jul 06, 2005 06:49am | #1

    " but was wondering if the edge layers of asphault shingles would bend down with the heat of the sun or will I need to replace all the bottom layers of shingles"

    That largely depends on the age of the shingles. But my guess is that you can get them down with a bit of roofing cement (don't overdo it).

    You'll know right away if the shingles are going to cooperate.

    Sandbags might be helpful.

    That will be one neat trick if you manage to trim the top of the fascia without cutting the shingles at all.

    Rich Beckman

    Another day, another tool.

    1. Hoohuli | Jul 06, 2005 07:00am | #2

      Yep, I figure on screwing a ledger up to run the saw along at the correct angle. All the way around the house is going to be a pain. The previous owner even caulked the ends of the shingles trying to stop the water from wicking over the wood. It's kind of a mess!! If you don't feel pride when you are done, do it again.

      1. User avater
        Dinosaur | Jul 06, 2005 08:19am | #3

        Dude, I got a feeling your plan to trim in place is gonna drive you nutsier than you think.

        My suggestion would be to pop off the trim and rip the bevel on it on the TS down at ground level. Then nail it back on, and slip in a new drip edge. By doing this, you'll also get a chance to see how much if any rot he's got in the rafter tails and sub-rakes.

        Normally--and I would say, especially in the heat and sun you have down there--the asphalt shingles will bend down and lie flat on the newly beveled trim within a few days or weeks at most. However, if they're already fried--like, if they start cracking to pieces as soon as you touch them--strip the first five or six courses off, lay down a single course of Eave Guard membrane, and re-shingle. Try to make sure the shingles extend a good ¾" past the drip edge. This will let them droop a tad and help prevent capillary uptake of water if the roof is low slope.

        Dinosaur

        A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...

        But it is not this day.

        1. Hoohuli | Jul 06, 2005 09:24am | #4

          That's probably what it will come to, ripping the old trim or new trim depending on how nicely the old comes down. I've got time to look at more without the owner around as they do not come back till the end of Aug. Then I get his help doing the project, oh boy, oh boy. If you don't feel pride when you are done, do it again.

        2. Hoohuli | Aug 23, 2005 07:16am | #5

          Update on the repairs to the asphault shingles, the trim came off easily after removing a strange 'T' bar drip edge. The shingles were caulked on the edge, so cutting the caulk has allowed them to sissor back and lay down with the heat of the day in the proper line. The fascia was on correctly, the trim board had been install too high with the 'T' bar drip edge on top. Quite of bit of rot, that we are repairing with the Smiths system. Stuff is wonderful, no sag, hard as rock when done, easy to sand and paint. We will put a drip edge on just the fascia with no trim board this time. All is well.
          If at first you don't succeed, GET A BIGGER HAMMER!

          1. User avater
            Dinosaur | Aug 23, 2005 07:34am | #6

            Thanks for the update. Glad all is under control.

            Dinosaur

            A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...

            But it is not this day.

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