Attach Wood Handrail Posts to Concrete Stairs
I have to add a handrail to the concrete steps that lead from the attached garage to the house. There are 2 steps. I would like to attach the posts to the side of the stairs. I would attach either a couple of notched 4 x 4s or a couple 2 x 4s. The 4 x 4 ‘s notch would sit on the steps. The 2 x 4’s would have 2 x 4s, which sit on the steps, lagged or bolted to them. I was going to use Tapcons to attach the wood to the side of the steps but just read that they are for light/medium duty use. I would think that a handrail would require more than a medium duty attachment. Also, is there a better way to make the attachment than to the side of the steps?
Replies
better way?
Well, a way that works every time-get some steel bent up / welded to the rise and run you need all inclusive-post and rail, powder coat it, and then use drop in anchors to fasten it to the top of the step and or wall at the end.
I've had these made up at Hayes Bros. Ironworks here in Toledo. As the country gets older, they need that firm handhold getting up those couple steps from garage to house. To putz with wood in that situation is material cheaper, time expensiver.
Is this a prefab concrete stair or one that was poured in place?
Attach Wood Handrail Post
Hello Calvin,
I was hoping you would answer.
The steps were poured in place.
he jim.
I wish I had a picture of what I'm talking about-but if I did.............gawd knows where it is.
At any rate, I take a big pc of cardboard and lay it up next to the steps-trace the steps and show the wall they go up to as one vertical edge of the cardboard-I cut around trim, top tread, whatever keeps that top from hitting where I want it to fall on the wall.
Same goes with the downstairs end-I mark where I want the post to go.
Then take the cardboard, lay it flat and decide where you want the top fastening point to be-I usually return it to horizontal just b/4 the wall fastener location. Show the top, bottom and keep the rail parallel to the tips of the nosing of the stair.
They paint it up nice, give me the drop in's for concrete-nuts and washers-lags for the top if going into wood frame. Most 3-4 step one post railing costs me 160.00 for the above. Takes all of a half hour to fasten it up, paint touchup on the nuts and lags and collect. Making the template and dropping it off takes way longer.
A very firm connection.
Attach Wood Handrail Post
Sounds really nice ....too nice to be in a garage. I've got new brushes in my miter saw, compliments of you putting me in contact with Tim, and I would really like to cut those posts and rails with it. Also for the $160 I could tear out the concrete steps and build a nice set of wooden ones.
well then
With that plate thing you still gotta cut the mitres for the included trim.
Sure glad you took up my suggestion with Tim, when he goes I'm sure going to be at a loss. Just did a couple volunteer hours over at his mothers house, that'll keep me in the good graces and no doubt the recipient of the "good deal".
another example of what this old beat up cat dragged in web forum is still good at. Hell, you go to another place they'd have had you machining carbon or whatever those brushes are made of.
Tim had the Delta Miter Saw Brushes
I'm glad I took up your suggestion to contact Tim.....everybody else was running me all over the country. I've got to get back to Tim.....he said he had the motor for my saw and I would like to have it.....this saw has worked well for me and I would like to keep it going.
Attach Wood Handrail Post
I don't mind spending the time. I've got all these tools that I don't get to use as much as I would like. I need to be able to justify buying new tools......just bought a hammer drill for drilling the concrete steps.
ok
There's a plate bracket that's for a 4x4 rail post- Simpson might have it........I got mine from a stair parts supplier-definitely for a rail post.
You fasten the plate down to the concrete, the sides screw to the side of the post. Pretty good connection. Even came with 4 pcs of trim that rabited over those plate sides, so you could make it appealing.
Otherwise, going into the side of those steps, you've got way more holding stiff power. I would still use a drop in anchor-either one you lag into or the ones with a threaded insert that you nut to-turning the nut tighters the connection. Based on the same principle as those cheap lead shields..............only they work.
Notch a 4x4 or stagger lap 2-2x4's.
Just read the directions on those drop ins-too deep, you'll have trouble-not deep enough-you'll have trouble.