I’d like to attach strips of fiber cement board–each about 12″ by 8′–to my concrete foundation, with 1″ treated EPS in between. I can glue the EPS to the concrete, first, but am unsure how best to then attach the FC to the wall. So far all I’ve come up with is to drill a lot of holes and then use Tapcons or similar?
Thanks.
Thon
There are some instances where multiple minisplits make sense.
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Replies
Greetings tab,
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again.
Perhaps it will catch someones attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
'Nemo me impune lacesset'
No one will provoke me with impunity
My first guess would be to attach 1" thick PT furring strips to the concrete with a PAT (powder Actuated Tool), fill between with the ESP, and then nail the FC to the furring strips.
I don't follw what you have in mind. I understand the 1" foam. But were you planning on using four layers of 1/4" cement board? Or two layersd of 1/2"? And why 12" wide?
Ditto Matt. Just ramset some pressure treated strips to the wall and fill in with rigid foam.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Thanks for the responses.I thought about PT furring strips but the whole point of doing this is to insulate the part of the foundation that's exposed above ground (and a foot or so below ground). The furring strips, to some degree, negate that. I'm going to rip 4x8 sheets of FC into the sizes I need--anywhere from 9 to 21" tall, and 8' long. Just one layer, to protect the EPS.Ordered screws from McNeely's. Will drill holes through the FC, EPS and into the concrete. Will see how it goes! <G>Thanks!
How about glueing foam to block and then fastening 1x2 pt over top of the foam through the foam with any type of fastener you want (tapcons, powder actuated, etc) then nail the fiber cement board to the furring strips?
You're starting to get my foundation covering sticking pretty far out past the wall siding. <G>I'm aware that FC is not supposed to be in contact with the ground but I'm going to experiment a little . (Someone left a piece in a bucket of water for a year or two (?), and saw no degradation.) I would have liked to use Tuff II or similar but I found that dealing with that company, and the problems with applying it in the winter, were just not worth the aggravation.We do have termites in this area, and my thinking was this: Treated EPS next to the foundation, and FC on top of that. Seems 'relatively' safe to me.Thanks for the ideas.Thon
Most all the specs I have seen for fibercement board products say you need to keep it a minimum of 6 or 8 inches above finished grade, for the warranty to be valid.
The stuff can absorb water and swell up and degrade.
If you want to cover rigid foam over an exposed foundation wall, consider one of the EIFS products that is OK with grade contact. Parex, Sto, and Dryvit all have product offerings.
Not knowing where Tab is located, I have to disagree with it being OK to have ground contact with any EIFS product.
Too many incidences of termite intrusion. Current requirement is to stop the cladding 6-8" above finished grade just like you would fibercement or any wood siding product.
There's big business in cutting back finishes that are buried in the ground and then repairing, if you can, the damages caused by those pesky termites.
I've seen whole walls here that have to be replaced because the framing is just so... gone.