Hey all. I had to come back here and ask a question (I have been boycotting since the changeover but that’s another issue). what would you consider the best method to secure 2x material to a cinderblock wall? powder actuated would blow through and probably break the blocks and tapcons suck in cinderblock. I’m thinking masonry nails and construction adhesive. the framing will need to support drywall and that’s about it. thanks.
Steve
S.J.MERRETTE Carpentry & Construction • Robesonia, PA
Nothing is impossible…It just hasn’t been done yet.
Replies
I usse PL Premium adhesive and Tapcons (delicately)
Hey Piffin, how ya been? it's been awhile since we last talked. I've been holding on so far. things are still up and down and now it looks like I might have a ruptured disk. that really sucks because I still don't have health insurance and to top it off if I need surgery I'm sunk. I have no way to ride out a recuperating time with no income. the pain I'm in now is absolutely killing my productivity not to mention my profitablility.Steve
S.J.MERRETTE Carpentry & Construction • Robesonia, PA
Nothing is impossible...It just hasn't been done yet.
Yeah, The pain can keep you from thinking straight so it's hard to estimate accurately.
One of the hard things is that people see you but can't see a cast or stitches. They just think that ugly look on your face is from being mean instead of understanding it's from pain. So no sympathyh except from fellow sufferers.
Welcome back in.
Excellence is its own reward!
the way I did mine was. Tapcon the sole plate to slab, and then run a small piece of 2x6 from top of 2x wall to the truss plate on top of block wall. This small 2x6 lock the wall and the truss together with the block wall
I`ve never had a problem with the Tapcons. I have also used the old "cut" nails which work great with 1x furring strips. PL is a must.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
I just have had bad luck with tapcons and cinderblocks. they seem to just pull right out. I don't know if it's that the cinderblocks are of poor quality or what but that's what I've run into just about every time.Steve
S.J.MERRETTE Carpentry & Construction • Robesonia, PA
Nothing is impossible...It just hasn't been done yet.
Steve; I, for one am glad to see you back! I now know that I missed your posts and wisdom. I always thought of you as one to provide some accurate answers.
I also have trouble with tapcons. I am wondering for my 3400sq basement coming up, would i be better off to build self supporting walls actualy 2-3 inches off the basement walls? Let us know what you decide to use.
Good luck!Old Pro, not quite old, not quite pro, but closer every day on both...
I haven't done it but know a few guys who have and that is to use 2x4 top and sole plates with 2x3 studs. this allows the wires to be run behind the studs without having to drill. the walls kind of float but are secured top and bottom. just a thought.Steve
S.J.MERRETTE Carpentry & Construction • Robesonia, PA
Nothing is impossible...It just hasn't been done yet.
Once pl premium sets , it really doesnt matter . [my thinking ]Ive yet to see it come loose.
welcome back,
Tim Mooney
Right about the PL premium. It's like welded on!Excellence is its own reward!
1) Tapcons, if you use the brand name product and specified drill bit, are a proven solution. I would likely use them as my first choice. Barring extremely punky cinder blocks, in which case you need a new wall, I have never had any problems that weren't of my causing.
2) Zinc drive anchors. Sized to expand slightly inside the hollow. Are strong and reliable but any failure to keep them seated when driving the pin will substantially slow production as removing them can be an ordeal.
3) Caulking anchors are good but require spotting the holes and seems like overkill. The same can be said of toggle bolts.
The number of anchors used could, IMHO, be substantially reduced by using a good construction adhesive. I like PLPremium. A good bond with rough, unfinished, cinder block surfaces. The 2 by 4 was mulched before the bond broke.
Dont wanna be a stick in the mud but.....sounds like youre talking basement....What I do is use metal studs which needs little attachment to the block. Occasionally I nail some 2X material to the block and screw the metal to it every here and there but its really not all that necassary...I just do it so I can sleep better.
Be well
Namaste'
andy
It's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Hey Andy, no actually I'm talkin' church. This is a cinderblock construction church and they want to add some drywall to make it look a little better.Steve
S.J.MERRETTE Carpentry & Construction • Robesonia, PA
Nothing is impossible...It just hasn't been done yet.
Well steve....I'd still use metal studs. Why bother using wod if its not structual? Metal goes so quick and its cheaper then wood to boot
Be well
Namaste'
AndyIt's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM