Replies

1. 
   Mark_"if_I_were_a_carpenter | Apr 20, 2001 03:50am | #1

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   Jim... I would think that you could use cleats and screw them from the underside, surely if you start at the bottom you could get at each one from the space from the next step up. Then just glue the top tread with construction adhesive and weight it down with something. That's my best suggestion anyway. Good luck, and if this won't work, let us know why and we'll try to come up with some alternative method.

1. 
   Stan_Foster | Apr 20, 2001 12:36pm | #2

   *Jim: I use a Kreg pocket screw tool. It is without a doubt the best money I have ever spent on a tool.I pocket screw the risers, and the stringers to the treads on the inside. Also, I screw the back of the risers to the back of the treads.If you look close at the picture, you will see some pocket screw holes at the top of the risers.

1. 
   generator | Apr 23, 2001 03:41am | #3

   *I've always used screws and plugs. If your drill bit and tapered plug cutter are sharp and you match the grain well, the plugs are virtually invisible. Make sure that you use the tapered plug cutters (available from Lee Valley, probably other places, too)because they fit so snug and the glue line disappears. (I did work for a stair shop that had never seen tapered plug cutters--they just used regular ones--and they don't look good!)The Kreg sounds like a marvellous idea. I've seen them briefly--are they cheap?

1. 
   Stan_Foster | Apr 23, 2001 04:30am | #4

   *generator: They sell for about $120. It is a very handy tool and makes very strong joints.

1. 
   ArcWood_ | Apr 29, 2001 01:56pm | #5

   *I highly recommend using polyurethane glue along with whatever mechanical fasteners you choose. Put the glue on the stringer and dampen the tread or riser. The glue expands (foams). I realize it doesn't have a lot of strength across gaps, but by filling gaps it can keep things from rocking.

2. 
   ArcWood_ | Apr 29, 2001 02:08pm | #6

   *Also...Get yourself a right-angle drill-driver. Have all those underneath square drive screws started. Reach under through the space between the step-reser and the ceiling below. This will get you to the top. Then set biscuits for the last tread.

3. 
   allen_schell | Apr 29, 2001 02:44pm | #7

   *Stan,This is a change of subject but since your here, when you lag your balisters do you cut of the 3/4 pin at the bottom?

4. 
   Jim_Walters | Apr 29, 2001 03:23pm | #8

   *Since every other way is covered . . . When I have a "hiding the screw problem" I sometimes turn it into a design feature by adding a walnut plug into a light wood such as maple, oak . . . never used the Kreg but may buy one for face framing cabs. . .

5. 
   Stan_Foster | Apr 29, 2001 03:49pm | #9

   *Allen: Yes, I cut the dowel off. I make a jig from a baluster base that has a centered hole drilled in it. On the sides of this jig are 4 strips of wood screwed on so that they slide right on the baluster to be drilled. It makes a very fast and accurate drilling jig.

2. 
   Jim_Owens | Apr 29, 2001 03:49pm | #10

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   I'm relatively inexperienced in finish carpentry and I'm wondering if there is any way to attach stair treads so that no fastener shows (besides housing them).

   The way I have attached them in the past is to drill a small hole and glue and screw them with a finish screw, then putty the hole. That worked okay because the treads were stained. I my present situation the treads will just be clear-coated, so I would like to avoid puttying holes if possible. In addition, I don't have access to the underside of the stairs.

   If it is not possible, any suggestions on how to best hide the fasteners?

   Jim Owens