attaching ledgerboard to 2nd floor rim
Hi Guys,
Never posted here before thought i would seek out your wise advise.
I have an older home with Stone covering the the first floor and side covering the 2nd floor. (note the 2nd floor extends about 6″ out further than the first ) so the siding and stone appear even.
i’m planning to build a lean to cover over my patio and wish to tie into the 2nd floor rim.
the 2nd floor has the wood studs , then 1″ fiberboard sheathing, then 1/2′ foam board and finally the siding.
obviously i would take off the siding. and probably the foam sheathing. but can i attach the ledgerboard by lag bolting through the
1″ fiberboard sheathing into the rim or do i need to remove the 1″ fiberboard sheathing also?
the roofing would be asphalt shingles.
also tips on how to properly flash the siding to the roofline would be helpful.
thanks
bob S.
Replies
You do not need to take off the sheathing -- it will not compress enough to be a problem, and it's better left intact from a windproofing point of view. Also be aware that some construction techniques have the rim joist flush with the outside of the sheathing, rather than running the sheathing over it, so depending on where you cut in there may be no sheathing.
For flashing you should try to find a good reference, but the main thing is to "think like a raindrop" and let gravity do most of the work. Depending on several factors you may encounter housewrap under the siding. You should avoid damaging this and incorporate it into your flashing if it's present.
When installing a ledger for a deck an alternate technique that is occasionally used is to install spacers on the lag bolts (through holes in the siding) rather than remove the siding. But this technique isn't so appropriate if the ledger is for a lean-to roof.
Your flashing will mainly just be L-shaped and go over the second to last course of shingles and against the house beneath the siding. I like to "glue" the last course of shingles with roofing cement so that nails dont penetrate the flashing. If you live in a hurricane zone, consult someone with experience in your area. You can make your own flashing out of coil stock, or you might could find it at the lumberyard. You need one solid piece of metal bent in the L shape the entire length of the ridge-line of the new shed roof.
A good practice is to counter-flash the top leg of the L. Window and door tape is just fine. You said you are removing the siding, so the siding will re-install over the top leg and counter-flash. Throw in some housewrap or felt while you are at it. Bare in mind that the bottom leg of the L will have to match the new shed roof pitch.
Nothing to it. Just google "side-wall flashings" for some good details.