Replies

1. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Oct 09, 2004 06:01pm | #1

   Hey Bonehead, you've described a classic dilema regarding the use of "open" stringers in deck/stair construction.

   I've used several methods including the use of metal.

   Probably the easiest is switching to a closed stringer. Closing the stringer creates a solid bearing connection against the vertical member (your 2x8 rim joist). Properly done, this type of connection is solid and attractive.

   There's serveral ways of closing the stringer, but I find the easiest is to "laminate" it. I form the stairs using the typcial "saw tooth" stringer, then add a second stringer that caps and hides all the endgrains of the risers and treads. Typically, to create a pleasant margin between the facing edge of the tread, you will need a minimum of a 2x12 laminate. 1x12 could also work. On many occasions, Ive used  two piece laminate because I couldn't find suitable 2x12 stock. I simply use two 2x6's or 2x8's depending on the rise run.

   blue

   If you want to read a fancy personal signature...  go read someone else's post.
2. 
   rasconc | Oct 09, 2004 06:01pm | #2

   I extend the ledger down the width of the stairs by adding appropriate 2x material using a 2x4 nailer on the back or a Simpson strap or plate.  Either use lags from the back and/or toescrew the stringer to it.  If you do not mind seeing it you can use one of the angle hangers similar to those they use for stair treads.

3. 
   Piffin | Oct 09, 2004 11:05pm | #3

   We use a strap hinge here. One side of the pivot pin is down and attached to the underside of the stringer. The other side is up and attached to the deck band joist. Then the deck fascia trim hides it.

   The hinge action lets the whole unit react to frost changing the ground level

   Alternatively, you could just use strap metal in a similar fashion

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

4. 
   Framer | Oct 10, 2004 12:12am | #4

   What I have done is to notch out around the Rim Board by coming down the 1/2" coming over 1-1/2" and then coming back up the height of the box let's say 7-3/8" and just level a line out until you can't go any more using 2x12 stringers and then nail it along side a 2x8 joist.

   Are these steps at the end of the deck or in the middle or 1' in or 2' in from the end?

   Are the joists running parallel to the stringers or perpendicular to the stringers?

   Also if it works out where your stringer ends up in the middle of a bay you can cut the back of the stringer at 7-3/8" plumb and then nail blocking in between the joist and into the back of the stringer.

   Joe Carola

1. 
   level1 | Oct 10, 2004 03:17am | #5

   Thanks to all for the ideas--they have given me a few different options to try.

   Framer, what software program did you use for the diagram?

1. 
   Framer | Oct 10, 2004 03:39am | #6

   I'm just using Paint.

   Joe Carola

1. 
   SamT | Oct 10, 2004 03:49pm | #7

   Did you C&P all the run/risers or do each individually?

   I'm using PSP and it can be a girl dog to C&P that closely.

   If Paint does it easily, I may have to use it for that kind of repetitive work.

   SamT

1. 
   Framer | Oct 10, 2004 11:23pm | #10

   Sam,

   I just use paint for every drawing I do. It's pretty easy for the stringers I just drew the lines long because for me it's faster to go back and erase the longer lines then to draw them in perfectly.

   Joe Carola

2. 
   Snort | Oct 11, 2004 04:50am | #11

   Would you mind posting a pic of that pivot hinge? We usually use Joe's method, but have used rafter ties. Those pivot hinges sound cool. Don't worry, we can fix that later!

3. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Oct 11, 2004 05:04am | #12

   BB, I just used strap hinges. the butt of the hinge showed on top, but really wasn't an issue.

   The style of stairs was "closed stringer". In those days I used to route the treads in.

   blueIf you want to read a fancy personal signature...  go read someone else's post.

4. 
   Piffin | Oct 11, 2004 05:07am | #13

   It's a plain old strap hinge, about a three or four inch one 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Oct 10, 2004 05:01pm | #8

   Ive done that same method Framer, as well as Piffin's hinge. They all work well.

   blueIf you want to read a fancy personal signature...  go read someone else's post.

5. 
   KeithNewton | Oct 10, 2004 06:36pm | #9

   Keep in mind that you are probably going to need a post soon to handle the handrail, and whether it runs to the ground or not, it can extend through the deck and down far enough to carry the bottom half of the stringer.