Attaching trusses to interior walls

I know the truss companies insist on using the clips that allow for the bottom chord to lift, but does it really matter? I’ve nailed some and used the clips on some and I haven’t seen any difference. My students nailed down the trusses to the interior walls and I am trying to figure out if we should yank the nails and use the clips, etc. to allow for bottom chord rise, or blow it off and leave the nails in. Any help is appreciated.
Replies
Obviously it matters since they insist on you doing so, right? Why are you insisting on going against what the truss company is insisting you to do with their product? If your a teacher, why wouldn't you teach them to follow the directions? Call the truss manufacturer and ask them why they insist on using clips. If that's what they recommend on their installation, you have to follow it no matter what anyone says and you have to teach your students that also before they go out in the field and do the wrong thing.
Edited 11/11/2008 11:49 pm ET by Framer
larger spans...more truss uplift potential...
Framer gave you a good reason for teaching the correct way.
Now, if you vere experience a sever case of truss uplft, you will never question the truss manufacturers logic. In a mild case of uplift the dry wall will split at the tape seam in the corners of the ceiling and walls. Ina sevear case. I have seen the wall framing lifted off the subfloor.
To counter a mild uplift problem and dry wall seams, you float the ceiling board by not fastening the edges within 16-24" of an interior wall. Butt the interior wall board to the floating edge on the ceiling board and finish normaly. The ceiling board will stay in place if the truss lifts upward.
To counter a sevear uplift problem,..... use the clips.
I call back on a sevear uplift occurnace can cost you a fortune, and you were just the framer.
midmo,
And hopefully you will also instruct your students the best method of attaching the sheet rock to the trusses to prevent shearing the tape line at the ceiling corner and the centerline wall.
Some years ago I had sold several house packages to good local builder. He did mostly smaller houses and was stuck in the "always did it that way, never had a problem" mode. He always nailed the bottom truss chord to the midwall top plate. Even when I advised him to read the truss mfg's directions..he retorted as above.
He landed a very nice house for a local pharmacist and the rooms and trusses were much larger than his "normal" building. Footings were poured in early spring and the owner moved in late October.
That winter had some very deep cold spells and on one night the owners were awakened by sudden shearing of the of the DW tape at all centerline wall and some perpendicular walls. Scared the daylights ot of them!
The contractor had to pay for the repairs (~$18K) and obviously lost his shirt on that job as well as suffering loss to his reputation.
Teach your students that methods and materials are constantly changing.
Teach them to change with along with the M & M's.
Teach them well.
..............Iron Helix
PS...I was, once a point in time, a teacher of chemistry, physics, & biology.
Edited 11/12/2008 6:41 am by IronHelix
Truss uplift
Google "Truss lift" and study up. you will find that trusses can lift a partition wall an inch or two off the floor if they are nailed tight together.
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It's called ceiling/floor partition separation. The following link provides more information.
http://www.sbcindustry.com/images/publication_images/ttb%20partition%20separation.pdf
Edited 11/12/2008 8:18 am by MiCrazy
I'm glad that I dropped in on this thread. I'll start putting up my interior walls next week and I had planned to just nail the trusses to the walls like my ex-bosses always had told me to. Anyway, I e-mailed my truss guy last night and he confirmed that the trusses shouldn't be nailed off but to use the method that the guys have been mentioning with the clips and keeping the drywall nail back from the edges.
My thanks to all. Moreno.