Replies

1. 
   DanH | Oct 31, 2015 04:20pm | #1

   How tall is the wall and how flexible is the metal?  You could simply make it self-supporting vs trying to secure it mid-field, if the metal is stiff enough.

   Of course, you'd still have to deal with the edges and joints somehow.

   (Big potential problems with glue in this scenario in that you have constant heating/cooling stresses, plus lots of moisture => corrosion.  Any glue is apt to break down over time.)

1. 
   Radarstudio | Nov 02, 2015 08:23am | #3

   I am installing this in a bathroom, (inside the shower stall, as well). Floor to ceiling. It's a 28 gauge panel, 8' tall and flexible, as corrugated tends to be. Corners -- jeez, you just bend it!  This is an exterior painted product, so rust is not a problem.

   http://www.metalsales.us.com/agricultural/products/agricultural-metal-panel/125-corrugated#.VjZftaSBbDU

   I was thinking a liquid nails product, or a polyurethane like Gorilla?  a hot melt polyurethane? I do NOT want screws to have to clean around -- I want it invisibly glued to the wall. How are Corian panels attached?

1. 
   oldhand | Nov 02, 2015 06:13pm | #4

   hmmm...

   How do you plan to terminate the metal top and bottom?

2. 
   Mike_Mahan | Oct 31, 2015 04:37pm | #2

   Magnets.

   Make your self a conical die-punch set up that will dent the metal in the shape of a flat-head-screw head. Punch the metal wherever you want screws so that when they are inserted they are countersunk flush with the metal (you'll have to do this in the valleys). Use stainless steel flat head wood or sheet metal screws set in silicone. Wipe off the excess sealant. 

3. 
   florida | Nov 03, 2015 07:22am | #5

   I expect you copuld bond it

   I expect you could bond it to the walls with any construcion adhesive like Power Grab but my concern would be how your plan to seal around the shower valve. You could also nail it up with small nails.

4. 
   DanH | Nov 03, 2015 07:56am | #6

   Perhaps you should clarify -- is this to be a "finished" bathroom in a home, or something like a shower off a workshop or barn?  That is, would you be worried about a little bit of leakage?

5. 
   mark122 | Nov 04, 2015 06:46am | #7

   im with your plumber...specially since you dont have a clearly defined plan on how to install the metal. 

6. 
   DanH | Nov 04, 2015 08:14am | #8

   In your back yard frame up a crude dummy setup, including your edge treatments and some sort of a dummy valve assembly.  Experiment.  Be sure to include flooding it with a hose to see how that works out.

7. 
   Mike_Mahan | Nov 07, 2015 06:55pm | #9

   If you insist on doing this....

   ......don't run the glue along the corrigation and apply it to the wall. Use wiggle moulding horizontally as furring strips and glue the metal to the mouldings. You'll get much more contact area this way. The mouldings that are made to run parallel to the corrigations tend to be a little thicker. You could use these, too, but you should cut them down to match the thickness of the wiggle mouldings. If you use both you'll get a lot of area exposed to glue, not just the tops of the corrigations (or bottoms depending on your point of view.)