Replies

1. 
   kcbuilder | May 22, 2006 05:51am | #1

   Trying to understand the question here a little bit.  Might be a little dense so go with me on the this one.  ... Typically I attach a nailer to the stone or brick using masonry screws and construction adheasive.  I then make a mantle that will "wrap" around the nailer.  You can make the mantle as a box with one side open then place on nailer board and nail or screw using trim screws.   Did I hit the nail on the head on that response... Ha ha get it.. .nail on head> A little carpenter humor on that one. 

    

    

   I sent PETA steaks for Christmas.
1. 
   connie363 | May 22, 2006 06:13am | #2

   Great carpenter humor! However... I see that I failed to say that the wood mantle is a solid old salvaged wood beam so can't "build" it around anything, I don't think. Or can I?

1. 
   Piffin | May 28, 2006 07:49pm | #16

   You could use that method by dadoing out the back of your beam with a router 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   DougU | May 22, 2006 06:14am | #3

   Connie

   KC's method is a good one and here's a thread on the very same thing.

   Its easier for me to post this link then type a good answer to you.

   62095.1 

   Doug

1. 
   CAGIV | May 22, 2006 06:28am | #5

   you couldn't have done that before I spent 10 minutes typing it up?

1. 
   DougU | May 22, 2006 06:40am | #7

   It took me 20 minutes to find the damn thing!

   Doug

3. 
   CAGIV | May 22, 2006 06:27am | #4

   I did almost  exactly what you are wanting to do about 6 months ago.

   The only difference was it was with a brick fireplace surround.

   I had a 4"x8"x ~7' piece of rough cedar

   I installed it using 5/8" all thread doweled into the cedar beam and into the mortar joints between two courses of brick.  I drilled the holes in the cedar slightly undersized and set the all-thread in epoxy.  Drilling coresponding holes in the fireplace surround the same dia. as the all thread and injected epoxy into the holes before sliding the mantle home. 

   I did install small corbels for insurance however after I had the mantle on the wall I feel I could have omitted them with no problem. 

   To make sure the holes all lined up, I clamped a piece of 1x4 to the cedar beam prior to drilling the holes and then used the 1x4 as a template to ensure everything would line up.    Make sure to drill the holes perfectly plumb and you shouldn't have a problem.

   I did end up having to "beat" the mantle in using a small sledge and a block over the cedar, you may want to have a scrap of 2x and the sledge handy.

   I think a similiar approach would work in your instance depending on how smooth the rock face is.

   

1. 
   connie363 | May 22, 2006 06:34am | #6

   Great idea- thanks!

2. 
   connie363 | May 22, 2006 06:49am | #8

   Have another question for you- how did that mantle look sticking out 8"? This is another thing I am pondering, how far out to have the 4" thick beam protrude and yet still having it look "right". I was thinking it looks best to match the thickness of the beam which means ours should not protrude out beyong 4" even though I'd like it to really be 5" or so.

1. 
   Notchman | May 22, 2006 07:27am | #9

   Without a photo, I can't know the scale of your F/P Mantle relationship, but 4" seems a little slender to me;  mantles usually beg to have things set upon them and deeper is good (up to a point, of course).

2. 
   kcbuilder | May 22, 2006 08:04am | #10

   Might check the local codes to see how far the mantle can come out from the wall with relation to how close it is to the firebox.  I can't remember specific codes but it doesn't sound like your mantle will be a problem.  

    

    

    I sent PETA steaks for Christmas.

1. 
   Bruce | May 24, 2006 04:49am | #12

   The rule of thumb I learned is that for every inch of projection of the mantle, it also has to be that many inches above the fire box.  Did I say that right??  Ex:  6" projection of a wood mantle means the bottom surface must be at least 6" above the fire box or nearest metal portion of a sealed unit.  That's not to say that's really enough, but the companies that make sealed gas units go by that rule.Bruce

   Between the mountains and the desert ...

1. 
   kcbuilder | May 24, 2006 05:36am | #13

   That is exactly what I was thinking... I just couldn't remember until you just mentioned it...Measure once > cut once > get board stretcher....

3. 
   CAGIV | May 22, 2006 05:54pm | #11

   Personaly I think it looked fine projecting out 8"  I wouldn't go any less then 6" because you or the home owner are going to want to set pictures, vases, etc. on it. 

    

4. 
   Tomrocks21212 | May 28, 2006 05:48pm | #14

   We used to use rebar instead of allthread, but the process was identical. One suggestion I'd make, though, is to mount the mantel and steel in the block before you run the stone up (assuming you haven't gotten that far already). That way, the stone can be cut to the mantel, eliminating the long process of scribing the mantel to the stone.

5. 
   Piffin | May 28, 2006 07:47pm | #15

   drill in a couple all-thread rods and use epoxy
   Drill corresponding holes through the mantle, tighten them down and bung the ends

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!