*
Someone must have a clever solution to attaching a wood newel post to brick
concrete or other masonry stairs.
I have a job rebuilding a porch that had wrought iron railings that I now need to replace with wood. The porch steps are brick and mansonry– is there a commercial product or homemade trick to attach a wood post (either turned 4×4 or box) to the masonry that will handle the load of the stair railing without lateral support?
Replies
*
Do a search for "newel post masonry". There is an archived post on the subject from last year.
Search was gone when I asked the same question last week. It's since been lost. I am following the mason that didn't leave many alternatives. I have ordered from an LJ Smith supplier, the base fastening plate that is mentioned in the archives. There is also a long rail bolt available. I'll let you know how the plate works next week.
* Frank "Mad Dog" Maglin "Installing Wooden Railings on Brick Stairs" 3/29/00 1:38pmThis will get you there......my comp. skills amaze even me.
*Calving:Thanks for the link and info. As mentioned in some of those posts, I've concerned about a post base connected only by some bolts or screws being snapped off by the force of someone pulling on the top of the post. Leverage is a killer! I'd be very curious to see how you make out on your project.I'm gonna take a hard look this weekend to see if I can figure a way to bury something more substantial in the brick for maximum strength. After all, this project is on my sister's house, and it would be very embarrassing to have a come-back on this project!John Painter
*I would be more confident using the newel bolt type of installation rather than depending on surface mounted plates. The newel bolt that Calvin mentioned is about 5/8" x 8", and is meant to be centered in the newel. I prefer to install two bolts, on opposing corners, and bolts more like 5/16"-3/8". Threaded rod will allow you to drill and cut to the length needed on-site.Drill the masonry and install the bolts as deeply as you can. Install the newel using the same procedures as installing a rail bolt and plug the holes.This system will be very sturdy, but you need to address sealing the bottom of the posts, and the holes for the bolts, because of the exterior application. Attaching the posts to the face of the risers may also be an option for you here, depending on the design of this project. There are a lot of nitpicky details we could get into if you are interested, but it would be a help to know more about the posts and actual lay-out, once you know.
*After re-examining this in detail, I've decided on two approaches. The top post of the stair rail I'm going to connect using a 3/4 threaded rod which will be put into a 1 inch hole with anchoring cement. Then I'll slip a 4x4 block over the rod and bolt the block to the masonry. Finally, I'll box out the block to create my top post. this post will have support on two sides, so it should be plenty strong.The bottom newel post is another story. I decided to bury a 4x4 post 36" into the ground just past the bottom stair and box it out to make my post. With only one angle of top support, I think this is the best way to go.
*b WBA At Your ServiceI would use one of these or allthread using the same method shown. The bolt will hold alot better in epoxy than in anchoring cement. We use these bolts all the time with great results. The bolt shown comes from L.J. Smith, a stair parts supplier. Your plug can be made from PT lumber using a hole saw.I would have sworn I posted this message before.........where did it go ?........
*Tim, you replied to my post which was thrown out with the dirty laundry during the recent clean-up. Thanks for the information. Do the newels today and will post the results.
*John, in case you still need the information.......used the newel post plate (1/4" steel 5"x5" with 4 countersunk screw holes for up from the bottom into the post, and 8 countersunk screw holes for tapcons into the sandstone step. Also drilled 1/2" hole in the center for the threaded rod drilled and nailed (cut a point on the rod)into the bottom of post and then epoxied into oversize hole in step/brick/slab footer. Painted the steel plate and sealed with a shoe around post base. Sturdy as sears. Thanks to the previous respondents. Best of luck.
*Calvin:Sounds great-- I'm going to do something very similar with threaded rod. What kind of epoxy did you use? I was going to use anchoring cement, but maybe epoxy is a better bet...John
*John, used hdwr store epoxy. Only had the two holes. If you need more or want to learn about epoxy, contact West Systems. Bay City, Mi. I think. You can find their product at boat suppliers.
*To finish off this thread-- I ended up drilling a one inch hole in the brick and using anchoring cement (it expands as it dries) to secure a 3/4 inch threaded rod. With that dry, I bolted a center drilled 4x4 block to the brick. The block was about six inches long. Finally, I slipped a shop-built boxed newel post over the block and secured with stainless steel screws. The 38 inch newel was rock solid even without the rails attached. I think this method will hold up long term.Thanks for all the advice...John Painter
*
Someone must have a clever solution to attaching a wood newel post to brick
concrete or other masonry stairs.
I have a job rebuilding a porch that had wrought iron railings that I now need to replace with wood. The porch steps are brick and mansonry-- is there a commercial product or homemade trick to attach a wood post (either turned 4x4 or box) to the masonry that will handle the load of the stair railing without lateral support?