Here’s the situation; I have to put drainage in front of the carport. A concrete skirt with trench drain is too costly. I ca only go down about 1′ so I can’t get enough gravel over the PVC drains to protect it from cars running over the same spot year after year.
My solution, if you think it will work; Mix a rich cement/sand/adhesive-admix slurry and rinse clean 1″-0 gravel in it before I place the gravel around the pipes. Tamp down firmly. Yeah, this will be on compacted sub soil (clay in a freeze zone – can you see my problem?)
I’m thinking that if I can get the gravel coated with this slurry it will bond into a structrual unit and still allow water to flow thru it. I’m only planning to do this to the top of the tiles and only under the tire paths.
Think I should add lime to the slurry? How much?
I think I need something to make the slurry form a fairly thick film on the gravel.
How about a Redi-Mix rat floor on the bottom?
Think I’m outa my gourd?
He he! Ha ha! Ho ho! They’re coming to take me away!
Replies
I know what you want but gluing together one rock at a time is too time consumming and its hard to find a cemnt mixture that like marshmellow that holds together like Rice Krispy.
How about 1" X 1" grooves? The tires can roll over it and it will drain completely.
How about 1" X 1" grooves.
Grooves in the gravel drive?
Trying to keep driveway water out of the carport.SamT
Two things, no drain pipe is need for a gravel driveway, the water will flow to where the base is sloped to. A 3" pipe may not crush if covered by 8" of gravel, especially a plumbing drain pipe instead of a yard drain pipe, you just have to drill you own holes.
Or am I missing some other information?
A 3" pipe may not crush if covered by 8" of gravel
You're on the right track. Crushing is my concern.
Just how much 1"clean gravel must be above the (sked 40) pipe to prevent crushing due to a car driving over the same place twice a day for the next twenty years?
Due to existing conditions, I'll be lucky to get 6" cover, hence my desire to increase the load carrying capacity of the gravel. It won't take much, merely prevent the gravel from settling or otherwise shifting after it's in place.
SamT
My feelings which is a guess, is to use crushed pea gravel on the sides and an inch or two. Crushed gravel once placed, will not roll around and will not pack down anymore. Pea gravel sized just big enough not to clog the holes in the pipe.
For sure, a few 2" pipes will not crush with pea gravel. Again you would have to drill you own holes on both sides, 1/2" above the bottom.
Bury a pipe in crush gravel, then drive over it. It should convince or not encourage you. Multiple 2" pipes with 8"+ should have no problem except spinning tires on top of it.
Put your PVC drain tile in, cover with crushed stone, and then look up 'grass pavers' or 'permeable pavement' online. It's an excellent solution without having to pour concrete.
Where is the pipe going?
You may just want to use a true French Drain in this situation.
Check out http://www.gardenadvice.co.uk/howto/garden-build/frenchdrain/
If you are taking it down hill off one side of the drive way, you could start your pipe outside the driveway line and run it to daylight below grade across the yard. All you really need to provide at the driveway is a porous area just in front of the carport for the water to filter down below grade. If you clay is as heavy as the stuff around here it will act as a tile almost by itself. All you need to do is add the path of least resistance for the water to take.
Dave
Thanks everybody, for taking the time to share your expertise.SamT
SamT: you've been a big help to me in past, so I hope I can help you here! What about getting yourself a piece of sched 80 PVC pipe and drilling some holes in it? Same OD, just a much heavier wall. Any industrial plumbing supplier should carry it, and if you get a contractor's discount it shouldn't be too expensive. At 3" or 4" size, you could drive over that pipe with the average car ad infinitum, 8" of gravel on it or not! It'd probably take a HumV too, but I'd keep off it with the 4 ton Bobcat just in case. Just drill the holes on staggered centrelines to prevent weakening the wall in a line that might crack later. Buried, PVC has relatively little risk of embrittlement, most of which is due to UV exposure. And go with washed peastone rather than crushed stone at least for the cover, just to make sure that the pipe isn't given a strong reason to crack.
Thanks, That is my plan if no one could give me a definitive answer on the sked 40.SamT
BTW, there are three types of pipes commonly used for drainage.Sch 40, SDR 35, and Sewer & Drain (ASTM 2729). The sch 40 has the thickest wall and S&D the thinest (and cheapest).However, of the 3 only S&D has a crush rating.It is 3000 lbs. However, I have never seen any definition of exactly what that is a rating of or how it is tested.
SamT
Looks like something got lost in the translation....LOL
Is this drain to be near the carport slab? In which case it's a non-issue. I've got the floppy 4" drain pipe buried next to my slab under no more than 2" of stone. Run everything I have which'll fit through the door over it without crushing. That's more than a few tons.
If the drain's farther back in the driveway, my schedule 40 pvc that houses my driveway sensor has no problem with my 23000 lb rubber tire loader. Again, buried only a few inches.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!