Replies

1. 
   Sphere | Aug 02, 2008 04:32am | #1

   I like TB 3 ext. glue. IF BOTH sides are glued, I'd skip the primer. It really does wick into the end grain well, and better than Gorilla in my exp with it.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

   You gonna play that thing?

   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32Ln-SpJsy0

2. 
   DonCanDo | Aug 02, 2008 04:41am | #2

   I prefer a wood-to-wood glue joint.  I don't think that there would be any problem with priming the faces of the splice joints before gluing, but I don't really think that there would be any point in it either.

   I don't have much experience with the exterior wood glues such as Titebond, but I have used polyurethane glues such as Gorilla glue and they have held up well.

3. 
   Matt | Aug 02, 2008 05:12am | #3

   Here is my experience with Gorilla Glue...

   Either:  1) I didn't get enough on and the (tested) joint didn't hold up to my expectations or 2) I got too much on and it foamed out and created a BF mess.  Personally I think there are better choices for glue.  Good marketing though...  Especially for anything where appearance doesn't matter...  I'm not saying it can't work well... kind 'a like throwing a dart at a dart board after a few brewskis....

    

4. 
   bd | Aug 02, 2008 02:19pm | #4

   In the woodworking circles, getting any kind of finish or stain on your glue surfaces in considered a big no-no. The thought being that the glue just bonds with the finish instead of the wood. Then, the strength of the joint is limited to the strength of the bond between the finish & the wood. Not nearly as good as the bond made with direct glue to wood contact.

   Some of the problems people experience with glue joint failure on exterior trim is probably lack of sufficient clamping pressure. I've used PL Premium to try to avoid those problems, but I'm just a DIY'er. Have no long term experience to base a recommendation on. With the PL Premium, squeeze out can be a problem, but it is easier to cut off or trim than the squeeze out from Gorilla Glue.

   One possibility may be the Titebond Moulding glue which sets quickly w/ hand pressure. I don't know if it is suitable for exterior use or not. You might check w/ some of the dealers.

1. 
   Sphere | Aug 02, 2008 03:01pm | #6

   I should add to your exp. PL makes a liquid version of PL Prem. It is much more handy in a few ways..it doesn't require a caulk gun, it doesn't foam out nearly as much as Gorilla, and it is really strong stuff that will knit with end grain almost as well as TB's glues.

   In winter, I'll carry it in the bags with me, cuz TB will freeze. But the PL is almost impossible to squeeze outta the bottle unless warmed.

   I've used the Moulding glue outdoors, I wasn't impressed with it's bond in my situation.

   Elmers Nano is pretty good poly, again, less foam mess. I just bought a new brad gun, and I see a tube of Gorilla wood glue as a sample inside the case, I've yet to try it on anything, but as soon as I test it out, I'll give a yea, or nay as to how it works out.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

   You gonna play that thing?

   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32Ln-SpJsy0

1. 
   bd | Aug 02, 2008 06:14pm | #9

   Thanks to you & Piffin for posting the tips on TB III. I've got a jug in the shop & some trim to finish on a workshop I'm building.

1. 
   Snort | Aug 02, 2008 10:23pm | #10

   Make sure the TB III isn't runny... it has a shelf life, when it's runny, it's run out. Now you see this one-eyed midget

   Shouting the word "NOW"

   And you say, "For what reason?"

   And he says, "How?"

   And you say, "What does this mean?"

   And he screams back, "You're a cow

   Give me some milk

   Or else go home"

1. 
   bd | Aug 02, 2008 11:42pm | #11

   Didn't know the tip about it being running but have a pretty new gallon jug. Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.

5. 
   Piffin | Aug 02, 2008 02:52pm | #5

   Titebond III is the solution to your woes. It is an exterior waterproof glue, but smeared on an end grain is is a better sealer than paint to prevent the wood grain from wicking up moisture.

   Two birds with one stone

    

    

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   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Sphere | Aug 02, 2008 03:05pm | #7

   agreed. I made some segmented archs outta windsor one cedar, and  I used kreg screws as clamps on the miters in the waste area. I cut my arches and removed the clamp screws to re-use, and the left overs were dang hard to break up for kindling..that stufff works! The cedar broke ( at some finger joints) before the glue line..in END grain!Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

   You gonna play that thing?

   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32Ln-SpJsy0

6. 
   clinkard | Aug 02, 2008 03:43pm | #8

   When doing exterior trim, i never paint glued joints, titebond three is the stuff of dreams. I built a newel out of it in the shop, glued it overnight. I liberally applied the stuff with a paint brush and clamped overnight, playing with the offcuts at the end of the job trying to break a glue joint, couldn't do it. the wood always broke first.