Next house project – repair and paint the backside of the house.
Today I built a 4’X14′ platform on top of the (stripped) back porch roof rafters. Whew! I haven’t been a spider on a web for a while!
Forrest – drinkin’ to forget
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Replies
Ya know how you can often guess who started a thread by the title?
I was wrong this time - guessed Stan Rotocopterman!
are you still a lightbulb engineer and doing this for fun?
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Yep! This is me own dear place - she still needs a wee bit o' work -
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Forrest
Edited 3/22/2009 9:08 pm ET by McDesign
me thought ti was stan too.
get up there and paint! you will soon forget how wobbly everything is :)
that drinkin will make you think you are super man!!
Okay - got the repair done for the squirrel port of entry. Just that bit was like a hunnert and thirty dollars of Clear Yellow Pine. The 1x12x16' soffit ($39.55) was nice enough to just hang up inside.
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Forrest - in from the rain
Edited 4/19/2009 2:03 pm ET by McDesign
looks good. the pipes you covered up are they vents from your bathroom remodel? Have you been working on the car any? mine is getting close to paint. will post some pics when it's all done.
Thanks - the pipes are from the roof drains directly above, on that flat roof section. I didn't want a gutter, so there is a dam up there and two baskets; one on each 3" line. They combine into a 4" line in the (thickened) wall, which goes down and out to daylight in the yard, about 30' from the house.
Forrest
Looks good, but did you get rid of all the squirrels before you started work? I replaced a piece of soffit on my house once where the squirrels had gotten in; two hours later I walked outside and they had already chewed through the new board.
two hours later I walked outside and they had already chewed through the new board.
you forgot to add: dancing and singing I'm all right, Don't nobody worry about me...
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/2202363/kenny_logins_im_allright/"...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
CaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
<two hours later I walked outside and they had already chewed through the new board.>
There are still places they can get in and out - those will all eventually get repaired; this was the noisy highway above our bathroom!
Forrest
Forestt,
Around here we'd prime that bare wood before applying it .
You guys don't get much rain there though lately .
Beautiful looking wood.
Walter
Morning! It is primed on the backside - I kept it off the faces so I could see the whole effect of the repair for a couple of days, after staring at that hole for FIFTEEN YEARS!
Forrest
Finally that section is completely scraped and sanded. It's really a huge pain to get all the years of lousy paintjobs off. I'll flood it with WoodLife after lunch; sand any raised grain tonight; prime tomorrow.
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Forrest
Edited 11/14/2009 12:59 pm ET by McDesign
Not bad for a pastey palmed office geek.
Now I know whats killing the sander bearings, sheesh, thatsa lotta house cover 5" at a lick.
I was doing that to my logs here, I had 4 angle grinders, with different attachments, from a chainsaw disc, cup brush, knotted brush, and flap sander disc...about killed my arms.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
More - the Woodlife brings out the nice pine color and gets rid of the gray -
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Primed
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Detail before caulking -
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"Tightened up" - about three hours to really work in the primer with a 3" sash brush, and then a bit longer again and eight tubes of caulk to fill all the nail holes and cracks and seams. And yes, I caulk under all the clapboards - I know it's questionable. but it works for me. This will get another coat of primer after a few days of drying and shrinkage, then two color coats -
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Forrest
Edited 11/15/2009 9:32 pm ET by McDesign
Niiiiiice.
I was thinking of you this morning as I was outside heatgunning and shavehooking a 4 panel door. Lotsa paint from 1840------till now.
Did EVERY damm one in the '70's use that fake grain paint? I mean I saw it in the layers..and like if they'd a stripped afew layers, they coulda had REAL grain.
Sphere~still reeking of burnt lead paint fumes.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
I've got so many questions, I don't know where to begin!How are you taking the old paint off?Looked like there was some paint on the window trim after stripping, how was that with the woodlife?8 tubes of caulk? how many sq ft is that area?How much more paint do you have to strip, sq ft answer?I'll think of more once I post this , I'm sure.Kevin
I was thinking of you too..you didn't have the heat gun hot enough.
The place is still standing..LOLSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
still standing, just barely.we were hit pretty hard by Ida, a house less than a mile from me had waves underneath it.
I wondered about you, I have kin in WW Crest and the Villas, I heard it was above average flooding.
If you ever were down to the Crest, the south most big water tower? Aqua witha white band on top..NJ Ave and Myrtle..that was my Gpa's backyard ornament. One block from the back bay, about 4 from the ocean, he always got flooded when they came in like Ida did.
I know you roof stayed on at least. (G)
Starting PT for my back, it's hosed.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
PROUD MEMBER OF THE " I ROCKED WITH REZ" CLUB
I'll have many replies, but DW is signaling me that it's time for bed.
Tomorrow I shall answer. Think of more.
Forrest
Paint is removed with various methods, whatever fits or that I’m in the mood for. Hand-held heat-gun and scraper (quiet and calm and slow, but thorough), PaintShaver (surface planer with vacuum attachment; really fast and violent and frightening), SpeedHeater (infrared thingy; have to mount the hanging rack/slide, but works well), a Porter-Cable clapboard grinder (metal / carbide discs that goop up in a few minutes and have to be power wire-brushed clear, so I use three and then go clean 'em), then both 5” and 6” PC RO sanders as appropriate – never any finer than 80-grit. hand-scrape in the corners with sharp shave hooks.
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Sink old nails, and add new SS ring shank 6P as required.
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WoodLife – sprayed on with a garden sprayer and backbrushed or just slopped on with a big brush. Any rough patches after it dries get hit again with 150-grit
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I had taken those windows to bare bright wood some years ago, and then a coat of primer. Just now getting to them again. Tight primer was left in place this time, scuffed with 80-grit; seemed okay with the WoodLife.
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This area was roughly 8’ high by 18-20’ wide, but three windows and a multi-piece eave made it take forever to strip and re-attach well – probably 60-80 hours. 8 tubes of caulk were about right. I just use the Alex 35-year; not too thick; Bondo and wood for fills more than about 3/16”. Tool the caulk with a flexible 1" putty knife instead of my finger over nail holes; let it bulge up so it shrinks ~flat.
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I’ve probably got 1800-2000 square feet of area to strip to finish the house exterior, maybe a dozen and a half windows and doors. That octagonal-ended bay is gonna’ be fun, with lots of layers of colored trim – hopefully I’ll get to it by the Christmas holidays.
Anyway, I started this paint job several years ago; what I did then still looks just-painted. Decent-quality Porter W/B paint over their primer.
Forrest
I was wondering if you were using the paintshaver. It can be rough if set to deep, but I'm a big fan of it nonetheless. The heat guns are very effective, why my stripping of paint continues, it's addictive. I have very little left to strip at this point. I read on woodlife site about testing area with a splash test. If water is absorbed, no problem following with woodlife. I just don't know how much more time I have with winter coming. I've followed paintshaver with 50 grit on RO and got it pretty smooth. I might hit it again with 100 just to remove any fuzz, but if the final finish is a little rough, I'm ok with that.I also thought of renailing, my board and batten is structural so it would probably be wise.Good luck!
Hey, you didn't mmention the Wagner "paint eater". We got 38 panels x8' of fencing that has to be ground down every three or four years, and I've done the manual scraping, the wire brush on the angle grinder, the pressure wash, everything I could think of to maximize surface prep, but this wagner thing, although not typically the quality of tool I'd normally buy, well it really cuts the mustard for initial and ongoing costs. It has flex, for cupped boards, can cut right up to the edges.Wagner ain't generally on my preferred tool list, but this one has worked out just fine.Worst case is that if you don't like it, you can return it.Although it's hard to say you love stripping paint, this tool has made the job more than just a tad, maybe two or three tads less painful.Eric
Hey, did you know my spell-check first suggests "cockily" for dockelly?
Just thought you should know.
Forrest
LMAO, not to far off, ironic really.
Highjack time...
What is you feeling with the various styles of beds??
We are looking for something else because the lower back and thorasic, and neck are driving me up the wall, specially when the wife is in the bed. The one we have now is really startignto sag after 6 yrs.
We've been trying the tempurpedic and like them, but when you finally get positioned, it's hard to move out of the contour. So have better reaction time, but those are more $(of course) So, rolling around is alot harder to do.
We have also tried a newer latex foam(vera wang) that gives the support like tempupedic, but what seems nice is the foam is more spring than the tempur. and a spring mattress, which makes rolling over way easier. But more bouncy
The sertas with the individual coil prings are hard on support for me because of the shoulder problems. Not enough give. The one that do have enough give don't seem to work with someone else in bed because their weight pushes down on the mattress and distorts my support.
Trying to stay in the $3k range and we are looking into a adjustable bed base for ease/comfort when the backs is really jacked up.
And, what's your take on lounging chairs, like a zero gravity chair/recliner from relax the back?
http://www.relaxtheback.com/catalog/subcategory.cfm?treeid=6389767&pages=false
Lots of confusion when it comes to beds. Sort of like the cervical pillows. I'd get one type that someone found to be great for them, and other patients would say they felt worse after using it. So now I don't carry any pillows.I bought a memory foam mattress at Costco, queen, about $450.00 and I like it a lot. Have a few patients who bought it after me and they like it as well. Costco has a lifetime satisfaction guarantee on everything except computers, digital cameras, tech stuff. So if you don't like it, they take it back. Not that it would be easy to bring back, big and bulky. Check with your local Costco to see that is still the policy on returns, should you decide to try their mattress. As always, good luck!Kevin
Schifmans are the best - priced accordingly but there are sales.
Jeff
Forgot to answer the lounge chair question. Check the list of contra indications for this type chair. Sends a lot of blood to the brain when your inverted.
We got one of those bowling ball bounce beds. Forget the name. POS. shoulders hurt more than the back. I might get a good old water bed.Now I sleep on a foam wedge that goes from tailbone to top of head . On the couch. Some what better but still not great. Tried on of those cervical pillows but could not get used to it.I have a screwed neck and lower back. I can feel your pain. Even hydromorph does not help somedays.
Okay - back to our regularly scheduled-program. Almost finished here - will move to the left next before I take down the scaffolding and work down; replacing the roof deck and shingles below the work platform. That window to the left is to our bedroom; it will eventually become a door and I'll build a screened sleeping-porch on top of the octagonal addition's flat roof.
In my spare time.
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Forrest
Edited 11/27/2009 6:09 pm ET by McDesign
Edited 11/27/2009 6:10 pm ET by McDesign
Edited 11/27/2009 6:11 pm ET by McDesign
Hey Forrest,Looks awesome. I started priming today. Hope to get some paint on the house before winter. I find it feels counter intuitive to prime and paint everything within reach before moving to the raw areas as your pic shows. I know why we do it, makes sense. Do you get that feeling? Love the imperfect clapboard 2nd from the bottom, somethings should be left as is.Kevin
I tried an experiment on this section. I'm using ONLY the small (lightweight) heat gun, and a short triangular scraper - the least invasive choice. It's kinda' Zen, but when I leave an area, it just needs re-nailing, final 80-grit sanding, and its ready for primer. All my big loud or hot things take setup, and you still have to hand-scrape the corners (and repair all the big gouges you made)?
Okay - this section is roughly 8' X 7', or 56 square feet (I did finish those claps above the ladder before dark). Between today and yesterday, I've got right at ten hours on this - but, it's pretty far along in the process, as described above.
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Here's a pic of a REAL heart-y piece. No sheathing on this part of the upstairs, so I can peek through and see the backside of the plaster!.
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Edited 11/29/2009 10:05 pm ET by McDesign
Did that as well when the paint shaver would not fit. Once I set the depth correctly, the wood didn't get as ripped up. Still had to sand. Started priming yesterday, hopefully I'll get one coat of paint on, second in the Spring or early summer.
Holy Carp that is one big task!! but seems to look good.Ain't older houses fun. My Dad had a house with cedar siding every 2 years we had the privildge of sanding and scraping. Ahh the good old days. My last two houses have stucco.
Ever wonder if by the time you get the last of it painted it will be time to start again?
jt8
Time is the coin of your life. It is the only coin you have, and only you can determine how it will be spent. Be careful lest you let other people spend it for you.
-- Carl Sandburg
LOL - I hope not! I'm shooting for a twelve-year cycle - hence all the super-prep work.
Even then, a repaint should take like 10% of this work.
Forrest
By the time you get done, I'm thinking you ain't gonna want to EVER have to repaint it again, no matter how much work it is ;)
jt8
Time is the coin of your life. It is the only coin you have, and only you can determine how it will be spent. Be careful lest you let other people spend it for you. -- Carl Sandburg
Looks awesome. I started priming today. Hope to get some paint on the house before winter.
I think my BIL went 2 or 3 years with just Kilz primer on the house. He is a slow painter. ;)
jt8
Time is the coin of your life. It is the only coin you have, and only you can determine how it will be spent. Be careful lest you let other people spend it for you.
-- Carl Sandburg