Greetings:
I build my deck railings by hand, and I interested in hearing how others attach balusters to their railings. I use a lot of square fir balusters. I prime the ends, nail them to perpenducularly laid 3/4 by 1 1/2 ripped strips to make a “ladder” then I install to the rails. Here is a picture of a project from last season. I find the baluster construction to be too slow and am looking for ways to speed it up, automatize, whatever.
HD
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Replies
That's pretty much exactly how I do it...
Not sure how you're gonna come up with a faster cheaper way that doesn't look like it was done fast and cheap.
Like Mark said, that's the only way I know of to make a traditional-looking railing like the picture you posted. There are a million other railing styles, some might go together faster, but you will have to compromise on some details.
Same way I do it...
I gota ask though... You said "I build my deck railings by hand". Other than the plastic pre-fab railing sections, what other way is there to do it - other than to build by hand?
There are some new-fangled ways to buy pre-assembled sections of balusters and rails. Some companies even have figured out how to make them slope for stairs, you pick the angle. Only problem is you can't adjust the spacing, which is a deal breaker for me.
Hi Mike and Matt:
Thanks for the input. I remember a baluster system I saw at a home show wherein the balusters could swivel to adjust from a horizontal to stair angle. Like you said, you can't adjust the spacing, though, so inevitably the stair system would have a tighter spacing.
Okay so I am resigned to hand assembly...in this area of old houses all of my jobs are rebuilds of porches and decks like I showed in the picture. My I ask HOW you are attatched the balusters. I have used multiple finish nails, but perhaps that is not the strongest method..
HD
I usually 'toe-screw' from the sides or bottom if accessible. Pocket holes/screws sometimes.
I usually use mahogany balusters, so I pre-drill and screw with short SS trim head screws, two per end. Time consuming but you can set up and work production-style. Callbacks are more time-consuming than doing it right up front.
Hi Mike
that is helpful. The screws must make for a solid construction. Any tips on setting up a "production style" setup?
HD
My system is: Get all posts set, cut top and bottom rails to fit but don't install yet. Cut sub-rails to fit. Lay out sub rails and balusters at the edge of the porch or deck. Hold sub-rail and baluster in one hand, pre-drill with other hand. Use a drill for this because drilling with your hand is hard.
Screw together as you go. If you're using soft balusters you can pre-drill only the subrail. If you're using a soft sub-rail you don't need to predrill that either; so far I've found only Azek can take not being pre-drilled as a subrail.
The "production" method comes from setting up and doing all of one task at one time, and if your porch is the right height, from getting to work at bench height. I'll set up plywood on horses or work right on the deck on my knees.
Once all the "ladders" are made, install the bottom rail (I use toenailed trim head screws), then drop in the ladder and screw or nail that down to the bottom rail between every second or third baluster. Then install the top rail down tight to the ladder, and screw or nail up into that piece.
Here's an example of the end result. YMMV.
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that is one handsome porch. How did you do the curved rails?
your system sounds a lot like mine.
Dan
Thanks. CVG red cedar, glued up in 1/4" strips with PL Premium. Sub-rails are Azek. They lifted a little on the outside edges but not too badly.
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Morning dew is dripping off the top rail. Our painter isn't that bad.
These were cedar balusters, so no need for predrilling. Kind of splintery though. I prefer mahogany.
Wow good looking deck. I like the pergola idea underneath.
Thanks. I didn't come up with the concept, just worked out the details. Built the thing indoors in pieces, pre-painted everything, and assembled in the bitter cold without much of a hitch. Tricky because it had to look finished above and below.
The transition from curved deck to straight stairs was tricky:
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That Ipe' looks kind of blotchy while it's turning silver.
Sorry for the hijack Dan.
rail-to-baluster connection ( especially painted )..
SS pocket screws with a Kreg jigMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Hi Mike
I had not thought of that. Let me understand: you use the jig to attach balusters directly to the main rails, thus skipping the internal ladder step, is that right? And do you assemble on a work bench, or install in place?
Dan
no... i threw you a curve... i meant rail- to- newel
with balusters we make one end a pin ( ss nail with the head cut off )
and we trap the other end with a fillet
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Very very nice! Keep it up. Who is your painter?
THANKS! My painter is just very fussy with his caulk gun and really takes the irregularities out of my work. We call it "structural caulking" (!)
HD