Small run of five treads, with the lower newel cut into the bottom tread and the upper set back into the nosing.
Even layout, by using the overall distance divided equally, leaves them not in the same relative place on each tread.
If using the maximum distance from the upper newel and placing the other rear balusters at the same distance from their risers;
then 1) spliting the distance for the forward baluster between the rear ones?( the lowest tread would not have its forward one in the same relative position)
2) place the lowest front baluster adjacent to the newel and place the others in the same relative position? Would have to check that this spacing would meet code between the treads(front to rear on the next lower tread) This would give a symmetrical layout, but only step to step.
Any suggestions?
Thanks, Ed
Replies
Ed
How much difference?
With your description, I'm not sure of the exact placement nor size of the upper and lower newell. To do this with any accuracy my spacially challenged mind would need to know size of newel, size of tread and overhang and exact placement of newells. I'm assuming, maybe wrong, that there's only room for one balluster at the top and bottom tread?
Should be room for at least two per tread, and I'm thinking three on all but the lower tread.
Lower newel is inset 1.5" with a tread nosing of 1 4/16" Tread is 10-3(16ths)
Top newel is inset 2.5" from nosing.
Both are 3" square with what I perseive as 5/8" indent on the turning.
length nosing
Top tread 10-4 1-4
second 10-2 1-4
third 10-4 1-4
fourth 10-6 1-5
fifth,lower newel 10-3 1-4
I'm envisioning there will be three on each, evenly spaced, with a differential spacing between the front and back on sequential treads.
Can't say I've had to deal with this b/4, so this will be of no help whatsoever-it just helps me try to do the layout here in NW Oh.
Upper newell is back off the face of the riser 1-1/4"
Lower newell is flush to riser.
One baluster is traditionally aligned with the face of the riser. You have to keep the 4" sphere rule in mind.
If you used 2 balusters, on the bottom tread, there'd be -riser-3-1/2 space-baluster-4-1/2 space-newell.
up top, riser-3-1/2 space-bauster(aligned with face of riser below-3-1/2 space-baluster.................
However, from upper newell to edge of baluster-4-3/4".
Using three balusters makes the 4"sphere thing work, but still doesn't help with even spacing.
Upper-riser-2"space-baluster-2"space-baluster-2"space-baluster (aligned with face of riser below.
Upper newell to edge of baluster-3-1/4.
On the bottom tread, riser-2"space-baluster-2"space-baluster-3"space-Newel. Only 2 because your newell takes the thirds place.
As you've already figured-even baluster spacing at treads, not so with the newels. I'm guessing without doing a line drawing or mocking up something, it might be more pleasing to have the positions of the balusters with themselves to be even. Oddball at the top to newel and at the bottom to newel. Any cheating would show up in the baluster runs.
A good stair guy might possibly be able to help you way more than my feeble attempt.
"I'm envisioning there will
"I'm envisioning there will be three on each, evenly spaced, with a differential spacing between the front and back on sequential treads."
Yes, because this was not fully planned before starting. The newels are not placed right. So you have to do the best you can and not worry about spacing to the newels.
You are restricted with the treads, so you have to use those for your figuring. The front balluster has to go in line with the riser at the minimum or you will drill through the nosing. You can only go back so far so the rear balluster doesn't hit the nosing of the next tread. Working within those restrictions, you can place a third balluster centered between. The first and last ballusters should also be spaced the same way, it might be a different space from the newel post than the other ballusters from each other. If you equally divide the spaces from newel to newel, the positions will keep changing on the treads. problems as described above will be an issue. If meeting code spacing is an issue, you can move the first and/or last ballusters an inch or less without them looking obvious.
Sometimes you have to
set aside the level or square in a remodel, especially an older place. You go with the lines the space gives you. Since it's obvious the newels weren't placed properly, you're looking at veering off the beaten path a little. Your eye will tell you more than a tape will in this situation. Setting the ballusters symetrically on the full steps then making up whatever difference at the transition from balluster to newel at the two locations would likely give you a visually pleasing effect. Have you considered setting the newels at the proper placement instead of leaving them as they are?