Do square wooden balusters have to be 1 1/4 inch thick? That seems to be the standard for manufactured stair parts. I am cutting them out of 5/4 poplar and (with jointing and planing) 1 1/8 seems to be all I can get. They will be set into the treads and into a plowed dado in the handrail.
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penob.
It helps to keep the top of the baluster registered at that plowed handrail. Is it necessary? They'll be held from twisting by the fillets and only will be seen as not filling the dado. If you like it, I think you'll be fine. They'll have to be pinned so they don't slide over when a drunk slides down the stairs, or other calamity. There's really not that much slop with your difference.
I'm doing it all from scratch, so whatever baluster thickness I end up with, I will do the dado correspondingly. My concern was with baluster strength, but there is nothing magical about 1 1/4, I suppose. In fact, for turned balusters, there must be a lot less than 1 1/4 between all those knobs and do-dads.
More than likely (and I don't know for sure at all)..........
All start out like that so they can do the turnings and not lose much meat. It keeps all the manufactured parts consistant, no matter what they do with the blanks. They'll keep the square tops except for the tapered balusters.
I think you'll be fine. The connections are probably the main concern in their stability and resistance to failure.
from scratch, you can do any size that wil not fall apart. I've done round dowels 5/8"
Just make sure the spaces are under 4"
You back here on Penobscot bay?
Hi, Piffin -- Nope, I'm still in the Queen City of the Great Lakes, working on stairs I began around 8 years ago on Vinalhaven. I'm trying to remember how many treads there are so I know how many spindles to cut out. I'm going to guess, then add some!