Replies

1. 
   johnnyd | Jul 07, 2005 10:18pm | #1

   Min Wax has a spar varnish in satin.  I used it on a pine screen door with good results.  Takes a long time to dry/cure.

2. 
   mbdyer | Jul 08, 2005 01:28am | #2

   Poly is used for a reason, it dries quicker and it will stand up to the abuse.  The "plastic" appearance is due to the second reason, poly is tough to "rub out" but it can be done.  You will need a wide variety of abrasives; synthetic wool pads, paper over 400 grit to 1000 or more, automotive rubbing and polishing compounds.   You can knock down the gloss and then repolish up to the point  you like.

   Lacquer will work as well, it is easier to polish to a flat or semigloss but this is because it isn't as tough as poly.

   Tabletop varnish is a good finish, it has a more amber color than the above, which may be good or bad.

3. 
   Sphere | Jul 08, 2005 02:09am | #3

   3+ coats of waterlox. Rubb a dubb it good.

     Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Iffin ya cain't spell it, don't eat it

4. 
   maverick | Jul 08, 2005 04:03am | #4

   I like tongue oil for its alchohol resistance and its easy to apply. I give it 5 or 6 coats rubbed in with a rag on successive days. Then light sand with 400 grit, tack rag and apply a heavy final coat and no rub.

   Tongue oil flashes up fast. Put it on and dont play with it too long. try to limit your application time to ten minutes and then get away from it.

   The best thing is if you get a mark in the finish in the future you just dampen a rag with the same finish and rub it out. Those high heels can be brutal on your bar top.

5. 
   RW | Jul 08, 2005 06:20am | #5

   Before you pick a finish you have to decide what you want in durability and look. That's probably pretty safe assumption territory with a bar top. And you said you don't want plastic. Random thoughts, to steer you as they will:

   Poly doesn't have to look plastic. It is not an extremely hard finish, but that helps it to some extent in avoiding damage. If you anticipate slamming your brew down heartily, it could be an option. Cutting it slightly with thinner not only helps the "thick" look, but makes it brush easier, and not much is easier to brush than poly.

   Waterbornes in general have come great lengths, and most are fairly easy to apply for a small project. But on walnut especially you will still get that cold somewhat lifeless look rather than the warm amber of a solvent based finish. You could conceivably linseed oil the top, let it sit a month, then finish over it with a sealer coat and then the topcoat of your choice. But that's a lot of work.

   I think spar is a terrible idea. Very soft, you have no need for the additives on an interior piece of furniture.

   A true varnish is probably a good pick. And yes, technically, poly is a form of varnish. But there are other options, that take a day to cure but look oh so worth it. Within that realm are fast dry, slow dry, long and short oil  . . . distilled down something like Behlen's Rock Hard Tabletop Varnish might be a good fit for you. It is not a joy to apply. I think its fickle as all get out, but once you get it, man, what a great table finish. And it rubs out great, so long as you let it cure out.

   "If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain