I’m no framer, so bear that in mind…
But, when sheathing a gable roof with barge rafter (outlook) framing, how do you handle the seams in the sheathing?
For instance, if I’ve got roof joists spaced 24″ oc, and the sheathing starts at the edge of the roof (barge rafter), my sheathing seams will land between joists rather than in the middle of them, right?
plywood clips? extra blocking? am I missing some other technique here?
Justin Fink – FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Remodelerator
Replies
JFINK,
You lay out the overhang so that the ply can be started in the middle of a rafter and end at the edge of the barge rafter.
That means that if you pull a measurement from the center first rafter inside the wall to the outside of the barge it will be 48" , the "ladder blocks" , or outriggers as we call them here will be cut 45 3/4" .
Start the first outrigger up from the eave so that the horizontal seam centers on the the outrigger blocking.
Brace either the gable wall or the first rafter/truss inside the wall to straight to a line before nailing in the ladder blocks, then lay out the location of the gable wall on the ladder blocks and nail them in place. This ensures your barge rafter ends up being straight .
so, what you're basically saying is that the amount of overhang (ie: the distance the outriggers extend from the gable wall) is driven by where the sheathing will land in order to nail into solid rafter?Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Remodelerator
If you are in control of the overhang and the rafter spacing, you can make the plywood lay out without cuts, i.e. 24" overhang, 24" rafter spacing = use a full sheet for your first piece (and start it at the barge). If the spacing is mixed, like 24" rafter spacing but the overhang is 12" or 18", then you're cutting the first piece.
No matter what you are cutting the first piece of the second course.
I guess I was stuck thinking conventionall (ideally) that the seams in the sheets would stagger perfectly.
But you guys are both right...I can see it so clearly now!Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Remodelerator
JFINK, I usually start with a full 8' sheet , then 6', 4', 2' then back to 8',
many guys here do a 8', 4' break . either way you can start off the barge and easily work your way up the roof. If this is an exposed soffit the layout here is always 4', 2' so as to maximise the use of the CCPTS ply ( or AC) that is used on the exposed surface of the eave yet allow for the ply breaks to occur on different rafters throughout the roof.
"Poor is not the person who has too little, but the person who craves more."...Seneca
yes.
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Roof rafters, not roof joists, right?
Are you on roof sheathing or gable end wall sheathing?
Assuming roof sheathing, it depends what overhang your plans call for. 12", 8", 16", 24", 32"......
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Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
we sheathe the roof,staggering our splices and leave enough overhang to allow for the soffit.next we nail the barge rafter starting at the top.you have to reach under to support it while nailing.on long runs or if the 2x6[usually]is contrary,we get a guy on the ground to eyeball it,adjusting as required.then we snap a line and trim the sheathing.then we nail the fascia flush with the top face of the sheathing.we use a leftie circ.saw for the left side[duh]rather than saw down the slope.if the design calls for more than approx.14-16" overhang,we set up a stage.we run the sheets groove up so that if pursuasion is required,we don't ruin the tongue.
cheers,o.b.