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We have a 24’X30′ barn that I’d like to convert into a workshop. At this point the pros’ of putting the shop on the second floor seem to out way the cons’ but I want to go thru the logistics of what will be involved before I commit to it.
The lower floor is post and beam on a concrete slab, the upper is framed with trusses… typical gambrel roof with a 24/12 pitch to 8′ height and 6/12 pitch to the peak. The trusses are on 4′ centers strapped with 2X4s about every 2′ and metal roofing on that. Floor of the second floor is 2X10s on 24″ centers with 4/4 T&G fIoorinI. I’m in rural Ontario and temperatures can range from (farenheit) 40 below in the winter up to close to 100 above in the summer. The lower floor and gable ends are board and batten siding.
1) How do I increase natural light and ventilation….could I make some dormers by extending the 6/12 pitch to the walls in a couple of areas?… and if so, how should they be framed?
2) Would only minimal framing be required for doors in the gables ends since the trusses are supporting the loads?
3) How to best insulate and weather proof the space (the metal roof is <10 yrs old and in good shape) 4) Suggestions for heating the space. Thanks in advance,
Replies
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Hi Jim.
1. Two suggestions, the first being installing skylights instead of dormers. Faster and cheaper. The second putting windows in the gable ends instead.
2. Yes, installing doors in the gable ends would be simple, just make sure that the jacks reach the horizontal header beams that should be spanning both ends.
3. I wouldn't bother insulating the upper level, better to insulate the lower level only and reduce your heating costs. Extend the battens over the gables if they do not at present.
4. Heating would be a personnal preference, dependant on what you presently use in your home. Gas may be the most economical in your area.
Gabe
*Jim,I second Gabe's idea of using skylights. You can get extra large ones. My barn/workshop has four, ranging in size from 3x5' to 6x9'. These should be mounted on curbs. The natural light from these is all I need during the day (35x60' barn). It does kind of look weird on a historical building though.Insulating is one thing, just sealing an old barn off from the weather has been a huge job. Of course, this barn is 120 years old and was missing 10 windows and 3 doors when I bought the place, with all kinds of animals for residents...As far as heating goes, be careful if you do decide to use gas or any open flame, since sawdust and wood floors/framing is obviously combustible.
*Gabe, What good are these skylights going to do if he insulates the lower level only? At -40* Farenheit if won't matter how well lit the top floor is if he's in the lower area? Joe H
*About the lower floor. If yours is anything like mine, forget it. So much condensation wicks through on humid/rainy days, it would rust out your tools before you could spray them off. But, maybe your barn is better built, and you won't have any more moisture than a dehumdifier can handle, and so much the better.
*i It does kind of look weird on a historical building though. Small skylights have been used in buildings in this country since the 18th century. There are records at our Historical Society noting that they were purchased locally ($2.65 apiece, c. 1790). I ran into one in a building built 1827 where the 'lite' was a single window sash, with muntins. It was boarded up, for obvious reasons it must not have lasted too long.Jeff
*Come on Joe,The skylights are for natural lighting and I've never seen one that doubled as a heater.Gabe
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Thanks so far guys, here some follow-up info...
Gabe, I would likely put a door in the one gable end to help with access of really big things and and windows in the other gable end for cross ventilation in the summer (the barn runs SW-NE so the SW gable should allow a fair bit of light). Why just insulate the lower level when it is the upper level I'll be using as the shop? I'm sort of figuring on treating the lower level as an 8' 'crawl space' and insulating between the second floor, floor joists and then under the trusses of the roof as well. Also the only gas available is propane (and it's about the same $$ as oil) so I guess my options are forced air oil, or possibly propane radient.
Mad Dog..how did you seal off yours? In my case the gambrel roof means that the metal roofing covers all except the gables, as a result the second floor is good and dry. Regarding moisture, the first floor slab is about 8" on top of bedrock so not much I can do to limit it. AS mentioned above how about considering the first floor like a crawlspace. My only real option to converting the barn is to put up one of the 'pre-fab' garage packages so I'd be in the same boat anyways except that I would then be RIGHT a t ground level.
Thanks for all the comments so far,
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Sorry Jim,
I thought you had decided not to use the upper level for your shop.
By all means, only insulate the upper level and put in a little under the floor. Don't insulate what you don't use.
Gabe
*Still in the process of sealing off the barn. Have a 15x32 or so room completely sealed off and insulated from the rest of the building where I keep all tools except for tablesaw, planer, jointer, radial arm, router table, the big stuff. Those are still suffering through the weather extremes.This building was sealed off once, but improperly. I have removed a great amount of styro insulation that did a superb job of housing innumerable birds (and mouse) nests.
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We have a 24'X30' barn that I'd like to convert into a workshop. At this point the pros' of putting the shop on the second floor seem to out way the cons' but I want to go thru the logistics of what will be involved before I commit to it.
The lower floor is post and beam on a concrete slab, the upper is framed with trusses... typical gambrel roof with a 24/12 pitch to 8' height and 6/12 pitch to the peak. The trusses are on 4' centers strapped with 2X4s about every 2' and metal roofing on that. Floor of the second floor is 2X10s on 24" centers with 4/4 T&G fIoorinI. I'm in rural Ontario and temperatures can range from (farenheit) 40 below in the winter up to close to 100 above in the summer. The lower floor and gable ends are board and batten siding.
1) How do I increase natural light and ventilation....could I make some dormers by extending the 6/12 pitch to the walls in a couple of areas?... and if so, how should they be framed?
2) Would only minimal framing be required for doors in the gables ends since the trusses are supporting the loads?
3) How to best insulate and weather proof the space (the metal roof is <10 yrs old and in good shape) 4) Suggestions for heating the space. Thanks in advance,