Replies

1. 
   CJohn | Jan 25, 2005 06:14pm | #1

   Depending on the overall height of you base board, either should work just fine. Most pad is 3/8 anyways, as is the tackless. IMHO the high side, with narrow base, which I have in my house looks the best.

2. 
   xhammerandnailsx | Jan 25, 2005 06:57pm | #2

   We cut a few scraps of the base we are using and set our base on top of the scraps. Unless it's commericial carpet, this always works out well.

3. 
   rez | Jan 25, 2005 09:43pm | #3

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=22621.1

   I stumped Theodora at trivia. -Jan.2005

4. 
   BossHog | Jan 25, 2005 10:47pm | #4

   Why not ask the guy who's going to install your carpet?

   When the government fears the People, that is Liberty. When the People fear the Government, that is tyranny. [Thomas Jefferson]
5. 
   Rick | Jan 26, 2005 12:09am | #5

   This may sound like a ridiculous question, but I am getting advice from carpet installers that I don't think is right.  These are not schlock guys; this is high-end wall-to-wall patterned wool carpet.  The installation will be over old hardwood floors in a 75 year-old house. 

   I have already removed the (natural, varnished) quarter-round shoe molding in order to repaint the baseboard.  I was going to put the quarter-round back after the carpet was installed.  But the carpet guys say no, no, put the molding back first and we will lay the carpet right up to it.  What is the proper way to do it?

   Rick

    

1. 
   JeffBuck | Jan 26, 2005 01:19am | #6

   that's just a case of carpet guys actually knowing how to space their tackless and do a proper tuck.

   I'd either go there route ... or my usual ... the fat end of a shim.

    

   I used to clean and repair carpets ... with the occasional full house install ...

   when the carpet guys complain about the "lack of tuck space" ... I just tell them to come back after they've learned to do their job right.

   U don't need any "tuck space" ... but having someplace to point the tip of the utility knife never hurts ....

   Jeff

      Buck Construction 

      Artistry in Carpentry

           Pgh, PA

1. 
   eleanor_rgby | Jan 26, 2005 03:13am | #7

   When the moulding is placed before the carpet , you tuck the carpet under the moulding to hold it in place... when the moulding is put after the carpet.. the tackless has to be placed closer to the wall... making the moulding over the tackless .. if you have to replace your carpet .. is where the real saving comes in.. moulding first you wont have to take the moulding off .. if the moulding is last you have to remove the moulding to take up the carpet... 

1. 
   JeffBuck | Jan 26, 2005 08:26am | #10

   "When the moulding is placed before the carpet , you tuck the carpet under the moulding to hold it in place"

    

   No U don't. Moulding is to cover the transition between the wall and the floor.

   Has nothing to do with the flooring.

   The moulding does not "hold it in place".

   The tackless "holds it in place".

   U are not a carpet installer ...

   and if U are ...

   U are not my carpet installer.

    

   Jeff  Buck Construction 

      Artistry in Carpentry

           Pgh, PA

2. 
   jrnbj | Jan 26, 2005 07:46am | #9

   Don't put the shoe moulding back....carpet right to the baseboard......

6. 
   njgrant | Jan 26, 2005 07:04am | #8

   Hey,  in most of the houses that we put base in we usually leave 3/8ths for Berber and 1/2 - 5/8ths for shag type carpets.  It is much easier (in every situation that I have encountered) to put the molding on before the carpets are installed. 

    

7. 
   hammer1 | Jan 26, 2005 09:09am | #11

   Why would you install the baseboard before the underlayment? We always do the underlay before framing the interior partitions, if we use it. It takes too much time cutting to fit into rooms and closets. The edges are wimpy too, I'd rather it run joist to joist under the plates. I refuse to use particle board after a customers fish tank broke, turned the underlay to junk. The carpet layers only need about a quarter to chink in. 8# pad runs 7/16" - 1/2", nice carpet can be 3/4" or more. I generally leave 1 1/2" door clearance but on a recent job I should have left 1 3/4". It was a very thick carpet.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   DThompson | Jan 26, 2005 06:12pm | #12

   I am calling underlay the pad under the carpet I think you are referring to plywood underlay.

1. 
   hammer1 | Jan 27, 2005 12:35am | #13

   Ahh! A juxtaposition of terminology. Underlayment (underlay) is a second layer of floor material that is installed over the sub-floor. Up until recently it was the common way to build. Carpet pad has always been carpet pad in my area, it is available in different weights, 6 pound and 8 pound being the norm. For a few extra bucks I go with the 8#. It stands up longer and gives a more luxurious feel. Baseboard is usually installed before the pad. The pad is cut to fit against the tack strips. The pad is great to kneel on but the tack strips aren't. Keeping the base off the floor helps the carpet installers to tuck the perimeter. 3/8" is the maximum needed. I've never seen a gap under the baseboard in a carpeted room. I have seen many gaps when the base is installed after a hardwood, tile or vinyl floor has been laid. The wider the baseboard, the larger the gaps, due to shrinkage or crooked material/floors.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   DThompson | Jan 28, 2005 02:58am | #14

   Many thanks for your input I'm just going to trim out a house so I will go with 3/8" above floor for the baseboard. Thanks again.

1. 
   baseboardking | Jan 29, 2005 01:48am | #15

   We trim (install baseboard,etc.) in hundreds of new homes every year. We install the baseboard tight to the subfloor, the Professional carpet installer cuts,trims and kicks tight to the baseboard. He (she?) isn't counting on a specific manner of baseboard installation.

    

    

    

    

    Baseboard been VERRRY good to me